I got a 286A this week and just did a thorough cleanup of everything - took everything except for fuel valve apart. Generator is clean, reinserted back with that L hook, and burner assembly is clean. My hunch is that I may have messed something up when pitting the generator back together. Any thoughts based on the photos? - Inside of generator is clean - could even look through it - Generator cleaned with compressed air (after needle/spring was removed) - Needle and spring look to be in good condition - Reattached generator with that L hook into the hole - Fuel knob turned many times to full, no resistance or anything, feels same as before - Pressure is high Worked fine until I took it apart today. Now there is no hissing sound, which I suspect is the biggest clue.
Update: Took generator apart again. Needle is fine, and connected to L-hook. Tried lighting it again, this time it's definitely hissing, but I think it's leaking fuel/vapour (?) at the jamb nut. I need to wait for it to cool down, but can someone comment on how the tightness of the jamb nut may impact this? I'm quite sure it's not on as tight as it was when I got the lantern as I had to lay it on its side and get it off with a wrench. This time I hand tightened it, then a couple of times with wrench, but all while tank was standing up. Hoping to not have to empty it yet again.
When trying to get lanterns to run we move fast because we want the light up. But its best to slow down some and take your time. It's not the tightness of the nut but you are not aligning it properly with the threads. Hand tighten first making sure the nut is on the threads and screws down evenly then tighten with a wrench.
Wise words indeed! Yup, was hoping to get it lit for an evening off, but think I better leave it until morning now. Threads felt aligned and screwed on easily without resistance or jarring, and gave it another half turn with the wrench. Hopefully better news after some sleep. Feel I'm getting closer.
I'd suggest you first check the fuel flow without re-assembling the generator and the rest of the lantern's upper section(frame, burner, globe, hood, etc). One of the crucial point is to ensure proper fuel flow when you're operating the valve knob. Here's an illustration and parts list of a 286:- With reference to the above, I'd suspect that something along the valve assembly (sub-part no. 7), might not be correctly re-assembled earlier or not engaging properly. Parts 8, 9 or 10 might not be moving accordingly when you're rotating the valve knob. Also check the o-ring (no. 11) that its still intact and not squashed or partially gummed or dissolved by solvents earlier. Of course, part no. 12, (fuel-feed tube) needs to be completely clear and not blocked by dirt or old fuel residues.
Funny thing though is that I took everything except for the valve assembly (7) with it's sub-parts (8-14) apart. And as I was able to light the lantern the last two nights that leads me to believe that the valve assembly is fine as I haven't touched it. I just reread the newbie safety thread that comments on submerging the lamp. I'm feeling a bit reluctant submerging it, but maybe that will be a next step tomorrow? Also, this is what the needle looks like. Not perfectly straight. Not sure if that could also be it or if the needle doesn't need to be "perfect". It had bent sideways so I pushed it back up. It seems to move fine.
That's easy to determine. Just remove the generator tube, cleaning needle, pump up the lantern and turn the valve knob open. If its fine, there'd be some fuel spewing out.
Instead of submerging the lantern aka a dunk test, put some a few drops of dishwashing soap and some water in a small bottle that you can shake up to make soapsuds. Pump up the lanten and apply soapsuds to the various joints. If there is a leak the joint will start blowing bubbles. I check the lantern with globe and vent removed and usually the collar too for easier access to all the joins. My process when putting a lantern back together is: pump up the empty fount 60 pumps (you can do the test with fuel in the lantern but need to be prepared in the later steps). I start with the pump, some suds around the pump shaft and oil hole. If no leaks then on to the fuel cap. Good now around the bung (if the valve has been removed from the fount during fettling). Next around the valve either side of the gland nut (No.29 pack nut in above diagram). with suds around the pack nut put a finger on top of the generator and open the valve a turn or two. Once the valve is checked do the generator nut the same way, finger over the jet and open the valve. Tighten or otherwise resolve each leak as you come to it.
Thank you both. And success :-). Fuel was spewing out of the valve, so that was a nice confirmation. After that I just really made sure the nut on the generator was on tight and between that and preheating the generator with the globe off, it lights perfectly.
I find that all the Coleman lanterns that use the schrader valve and plastic fuel/air tube (275, 280 series, 290 series and many others) are all more prone to flare up on lighting than the older metal tube F/A system of the 200 and 220 series lanterns. For that reason I light the newer models with the globe and vent off. You don't need to pre-heat the generator (nothing wrong with doing it) just don't open the valve all the way until it gets warmed up. Pump up the lantern. with globe and vent off open the valve to the light position and listen for fuel coming into the generator/burner. It can take longer than you think it should, especially if the lantern has been idle for a while. As soon as you hear fuel coming into the burner light the mantles. With the valve open just enough to sustain burning give things a bit to get going. Once the mantles burn brightly yo can open the valve to full open. With some practice you'll get to the point where you can light it up with the minimum of a fireball.
