Hello David, I assume that you have found the online Shetland dicionary? Swabbie is used for both the lesser and greater black backed gull, it's derived from the Old Norse word Swartbacker. You have got the gist of that sentence, caddie yamalds means orphaned twin lambs and a cro is a sheep (animal) enclosure.
Hi Jeff, yes it is! With some influence of the Latin group of languages (we were invaded by Romans, the Spanish, the French etc. and last century by Germany twice. Must be we are a popular holiday resort of sorts... ). Best regards, Wim
Yes, although I did know what a bonxie was from the TV programme I mentioned. So - boy, go and scare off those gulls and skuas because they're after the orphaned lambs in the sheep pen. I expect you're going to post the recipe for 'Fermented Skua' in the appropriate forum, Jeff. Although on second thoughts, don't bother - it would only make me byock.
Hello Wim, thanks for confirmation and I have been to France and Spain and the Netherlands but never to Belgium. Jeff.
I feel I must comment on the Newark event, the first that I have attended. Apart from it being very wet and windy, Philip te and I both really enjoyed it. We are usually at steam rallies during the summer and came up to Newark due to the planned event being cancelled, next year maybe this should be the planned event. A few words on the lamps. The Tilly AGM was consructed a few years ago for something different. A spare table lamp base and shot AGM lantern being the basis. A fairly simple job, a couple of adapters and a plate for the top to sit on and the job was done. Care must be taken when lighting as the two stage cock/tap becomes just an on off job. Preheating the vapouriser with a pencil blow torch before turning on is usually enough. Fuel is panel wipe or aspen. The smaller of the two lamps was made up from a PL 53 and one of the gas lights that fix to the top of a gas bottle. Again it was to be a bit different. A frame was made to support the lamp and is attatched to the tank at two points, an extra hole being drilled in the base flange. The burner and air tubes are home made, esier than finding originals. The most difficult part of the job was finding the correct position for burner and air tube exits. This lamp burns very brightly and gets a little hot in the handle area, I must put a shield on it. The original idea was for a lamp that resembled an AL 7 and for that reason I beat the round top into a squared off top. The Vapourlux was one of a pair I did for Philip TE and a mate of ours, they are fairly accurate replicas but are not intended to deceive. I made one for myself a few years back but these are much nearer the original than the first attempt. I cant take mine out now, it looks wrong. Over the last winter I have also brought two Petromax 834s and an 835 back from near death, a lot of work but I love these German lamps, bright and very reliable. Anybody got an 836 they want to part with.
Hi Len yes was good to see you both at newark and a great display you put on. Anyone who makes the effort to put a display on knows the amount of work that goes into a weekend like this. German lamps well dont collect them but those two tiny petromaxes are very nice indeed cheers pete
Thanks Pete, I agree, it is a lot of work but its only once in a while we do this sort of thing so makes something that could become a chore, more of a pleasure. I cant say I collect any one make, its more to do with if I like or find a lamp different enough to want it. They seem to find me if you see what I mean. Len
Hello Len, yes, many folk do that. Do you have photos of the construction of that very interesting AL., type of lamp which you made? Jeff.
Hi Jeff, Sorry for the delay getting back on this one, I have been away for the weekend. I do have some pictures of the lamp but not the actual work in progress. Just as soon as I work out how to upload (I Am having problems with file size) I will post a few.
Hi Jeff, I have now sorted the image size out so here are a few pics. I can do more if you need more.
Hello Len, that's a fine lamp and the photos show the construction very well. Did you convert a standard Tilley burner, or make a burner from scratch? You mentioned in an earlier post that the handle gets hot, a heat deflector would help to prevent that, but perhaps the handle could be fitted the other way, so that it points backwards rather than being located over the lamp, it's an idea anyway. Thanks for sharing the photos! Jeff.
Hi Jeff, The burner was made from scratch and also the air tubes. It is not possible to convert a standard burner because of the air tube arrangment and the number of burner holes is different. I also made the complete burner assembly for my FL5. I have a good lathe and milling machine so this kind of work is not difficult for me. As to the handle arrangment, if I turn it round I would lose the balance, at the moment it is perfect. On a windy night outside its not a problem.
Hello Len, I reckoned that you must have made the burner from scratch, as I could see the difficulties in converting a standard burner, thanks for the confirmation. The balance issue with the handle did occur to me, but I thought that there might be a way around it, perhaps by adding a support to the other end of the handle, but adding a heat deflector would be less work and solve the problem. Jeff.
