Here is my Veritas hum, not in good shape at all It is missing a few part of the most importants : needle and jet, preheating cup I wonder about the state of the cleaning needle controller !! ?? All this is very oxidized or rusty I will start with a good cleaning
@Michel A Veritas is always worth being restored, and yours does'nt look too bad. I have restored a 350P myself and had to do some research on missing parts. The pre heater cup is from a Coleman 237 , see OldColemanParts. Another tip was a Coleman 252a jet and a 220c packing will fit. The hood got a 800⁰C heat resisting paint, very succesful. A photo is added. Matthias
thank you @LatMag49 Nice lantern Yes, I was wondering about the graphite packing, because I only found a poor string rolled around the pricker But my real big problem will be the needle which is broken I think your spring should be above the alcohol cup, or am I wrong?
@Michel Instead of a packing you may also use graphite tape from the Fettle Box, which works well and is easy to handle. The spring or cup holder is thought to keep the cup in a certain height for better heating. Above the cup it's without function. In the shown position it only takes few alcohol to light it up, that's my experience with using petrol. It's one of my favorites. Sorry for the needle problem, can't help. I wish a good fettling progress Matthias
Above the cup it's meant to prevent damaging the mantle when the lantern is handled rudely. But for us as collectors (I assume that's most of us) the position of the clip isn't that important, I suppose.
@Martin K. I have read your comment carefully, but I stay confused. How can this short piece of wire, when above the cup and sticking out of the air tube, prevent damaging the mantle? I can't imagine how this should work. I have another 350 P with the original cup in the same position with the wire lifting it up. Looking forward to your explanation. Matthias
The clip is meant to prevent the cup from sliding up the vaporizer (and touching the mantle) when the lantern is tilted or even turned upside down. That's the way I understood from Coleman's instructions, as can be seen here clearly. BTW: The height of the preheating cup is not quite so important, because the more important thing is to preheat the vaporizer as a whole. Therefore, it is not a problem that many European lamps have the cup mounted low to the centering plate of the globe cage. The only aspect of importance is that the preheat flame burns high enough to reach the mantle in order to ignite the fuel vapors properly. Therefore, some of them have a small tube that brings the spirit flame even closer to the mantle, but which has no effect on the preheating of the vaporizer at all.
@Michel Yes, this tape is working fine if a packing is not available. I used it successfully seceral times. Matthias
@Martin K. Very interesting how Coleman uses the cup clip above the cup, although not mentioning why. As the 247 runs on different kinds of fuel, you may change the cup position, as petrol needs more heat around the mantle and the generator top whereas paraffin needs the generator preheated from the bottom on. I also have a Veritas 300 running on paraffin, which has the cup sitting loose on the generator nut without a wire clip. If you turn this lamp upside down, why ever, the cup would kill the mantle. Anyway I use the clip for a higher cup position. I would like to learn how other 350 P users see the clip function, but better in a new thread. Matthias
Ok, I have graphite in plate, it's easy to cut it into straps with scissors. I'm going to try. This lamp is missing several parts : I want to recover some parts on a Coleman lamp element I bought a big batch of Coleman parts to a guy who knew how to dismantle but not to fix his lamps I do not understand how to extract the part that pushes the needle in the generator !! ?? An idea ?
The graphite packing will have expanded and be stuck in the casting. You could try heating the brass, it should expand enough to make it easier to pull out the needle control.
Hi all @Henry Plews thank you no problem to get it off I changed the needle control Now the generator : What is the packing/filling made of ? I heated it and quenched in cold water several times, nothing has get out it seems not to be dirty but seems to have been pushed upward as it is impossible to screw the jet I found. Nothing can move By the way, what are the threads ? I guess this isn't a metric system i found the jet on a Coleman iron
I don't have one of these lanterns so I don't know for sure but other generators had asbestos packing. I have used woven fibreglass tube in Petromax type generators, try an internet search for 'tuyau en soie de verre' perhaps you can find a size that is O.K. for the Veritas generator. Here is one example Vue d'ensemble des tuyaux isolants et des tuyaux en fibre de verre The 'tuyau en soie de verre' in this image is 5mm wide when laid flat I'm sorry but I don't know the thread on the jet.
Thank you @Henry Plews My first problem here is not to fill the generator (thank you for the advice, I note for later ) But to understand how it is built to try to put a nozzle As you can see (or guess) on the pictures the needle is guided in the center of the generator in a small tube that goes up to the nozzle. Thus the needle always positions itself exactly in the center of the nozzle. Good idea I do not identify the material that surrounds this little tube and I don't manage to beat back this material and the small tube by the upper orifice of the generator
It's an American thread, the nearest I can get is 0.104 inch (0.109374) = 7/64 inch x 48 t.p.i. Is it possible that the material is part of the old jet that was broken off when someone else was trying to fix the generator ?
@Henry Plews thank you for the dimensions, now I must find the tool in France And this is possible, I could drill 3/4 mm in the upper part in order to see but I would prefer some guy tell me how is the mounting before Hum you are right, what I see is perhaps the lower part of a broken nozzle this give me an idea ; I could try an extractor
I'm not to sure, but you can try to check if it is the same as many standard Coleman lantern jets, which, are #4-48tpi UNF. It looks similar to me.
