So I picked up a used Britelyte xl, cleaned it up since it was shipped full of fuel. Learned the needle was smashed under the jet, replaced that and tried lighting it today. The quick start didn't seem to light so I used the alcohol heater. The lamp was room temperature and taken outside to use. As soon as I turned the knob to the 6 o clock position it just spewed kerosene and became a low grade fireball so I turned the knob up, released some pressure and sat it outside. I noticed the needle doesn't extend above the jet through the hole. I measured the air gap and it seems to tight so I will adjust that. Any ideas on what else to check. Searching I came across mainly those points.
Everything seems snug and correct. I'm letting it evaporate off the fuel and going to double check everything and clean the pre heater to get it working as well. I do have a spare jet I might try as well. I was thinking it didn't warm up enough either.
Well I guess the common fault or mistake is that people used to gasoline don't wait long enough to get the vaporiser hot enough to evaporate the kerosene (petroleum). And the big wheel is not a shut off valve ! Remove both the tops, pump it up and check if there is a straight line of fuel comming out of the jet when turning the knob. In the same process you can or should check if the bottum valve shuts off enough to stop any fuel getting out. Then preheat, preheat again and turn the knob slowly. Better preheat without pressure in the tank and open position (nose/needle down), the when you guess it is time start pumping.
That may be the case but it will certainly do no harm to check that no fuel is weeping from the jet as @WimVe suggests.
Well thank you all for the brain storming, here is what I found. The jet turned maybe a quarter turn to what I call snug. Everything else was tight. I pressurized it several times and noticed the preheater was not lighting so ran the pricker in the hole and pressurized it to full at 3 on the manometer. A tire valve is in order haha and wonder if the guage isn't exact. I measured the air gap and it was around 12 mm so I raised it a bit an need to remeasure. Usually I prefer to change one variable at s time but this style was new to me and I tried to just get things level across the board. I videoed it lol. Great pre heat for 60 seconds and lighting. It needs adjusted still. I had smoke/vapor running rich? From the air gap coming out but it ran pretty good otherwise. I would prefer a workhorse shutoff style but I wanted the experience of this style also. I love the preheater and this site thank you all. My HC Lightning bug gets shipped this week as well. I still need to get an old sweet big hat put back together as well Good winter projects when work slows down.
You’re discounting the below-fuel level extension to the pricker control rod that operates a fuel cut-off valve at the lowest point? Or do you mean it’s bad practice in case a lantern doesn’t have that refinement? John
As I understood these aren't true shutoffs but turning the knob to 12 o'clock then releasing pressure was the method. I call it the shut off , I think I know what he means.
@presscall , I know the feature but it still isn't a shut off like you have on a real valve. Or in better english (?) a positive shut off valve. It works or better it can work. There is no guaranty.
@WimVe Ah yes, I understand, you meant not a positive shut-off, as a conical-tipped control spindle screwing up against a mating surface provides. Relying on a return spring and operating in the potentially hostile environment below the fuel is by no means ‘positive’ in action as a shut-off. Agreed. Thank you.
Eventually I'll figure out pics here. Does anyone have a favorite go to pump for their lanterns? I will have two tire pump adapters delivered this week to make life better.
@Geronimo I got a ryobi handheld compressor for this purpose only. The pump on these lanterns it’s worthless, you have to pump a lot to get the right pressure. They aren’t like Coleman’s, I also do like the “soft-start” method in kerosene appliances
I've never use the tire-pump adapters(that's only because I don't have any) on any of my Petromax or clones of similar style. So far, all the built-in pumps still work for me. Some more efficient than others. Yes, you'd need relatively more strokes than a Coleman-styled pump. Not surprising since they have smaller pump bores. For those I'm having, 60-70 strokes would be the average on a full tank to reach 2 bar or around 30psi. I do have a couple of less efficient ones that require over a hundred strokes to get them burning bright enough.
I'm pretty sure this takes well over 100 pumps, I ordered new needles, the adaptor and some other lamp stuff including a lamp and lantern lol. I'm good for awhile.
Do not count pump strokes when starting a Petromax. Just don't. It does not work. Far too many details which influence the amount of air which gets into the tank. Starting with the amount of fuel and not ending with the condition of the pump cup... Erik
and do not use shrader (tire) valves... Make sure you lantern is ok. I have never, never pumped a 100 strokes !
Geronimo I don't own one but the XL has always looked a quality made P'Max clone and Eddie the BL owner has a number of videos on youtube of the XL. One issue might be the lower vaporizer. It has sat in fuel for years and the foot valve at the end of the lower vaporizer should be checked. You can actually call BL and talk to them about the lantern and repair and they still have a lantern repair service. I've used schrader valves with Coleman, P'Max, Amish lanterns and never an issue. It's less needed with Colemans because the pumps are so efficient. I've used just a foot pump bicycle pump inexpensively purchased. One thing you'll notice is that your HC will be as bright as your BC but require far less tuning . lol. I think the Amish took the best of Coleman's and Petromax and combined them to make the HC LB and other lanterns.
I have never had issues with schrader valves too, if you think they don’t belong there it’s ok I won’t argue with you but for me they have worked really good. mom pretty sure you don’t put 60-80 PSI on my HC Firefly with a pmax pump that would take you ages if you do it your hand will be sore and I don’t think you could reach that amount of pressure. Love my HC firefly and soon I’m getting a Lightning bug
Much as I love the idea of being economical - if I ever get a "well worn" lantern I replace all seals. Peace of mind and removing issues from the list of things that can stop it working properly. I think you need to look at the foot valve seal- and also pay attention to the "timing" - you will see that the upper and lower rods are adjustable. If the lower rod is too long the foot valve cannot close. Too long and it never opens fully. If the top rod is too long the needle will smash into the jet, too short and it won't clear the jet. The rods can get bent during this process. Normally you do not need to look at these but if somebody has had a play before you things can be in dissarray. Also some replacement needles have shorter/longer body so can change the overall length of the top rod. It is also possible to mis-align the pin on the control into the bit that joins the rods together. When working correctly the wheel should spin all the way around. The needle should be visible abouve the jet when the foot valve is closed. Some when the wheel is pointing fully up, some fully down. after a 180 degree turn the needle is not visible and the foot valve is open. With a full tank 40 pumps should get you in the right place for the soft start, 60 for the pre-heater. If the pump cup is damaged - more.
If you're needing that many strokes to get the lantern to decent brightness, the general thing is:- the pump's not working as it should. Even the Petromax-type pumps wouldn't need that many. That's assuming the NRV and other seals are ok and there're no major leaks elsewhere on the fount. On the normal start up routine, I don't usually count the number of strokes. I only take a mental note of the usual range just out of curiosity. The number of strokes isn't really important at all. After a while playing with these stuffs, you'd get a 'feel' of what's the adequate resistance that the pump knob should be putting up against your thumb. That'd be regardless of the level of remaining fuel in the fount. In fact, you won't even need the pressure gauge. The worst Petromax-styled pump I've ever had which, still could put in some working pressure was that on one of my Butterfly lanterns. It took me a little over 150 strokes just to get around 30psi on a full fount! Obviously, I knew the odd plastic pump cup/piston was crap. I didn't have any spare leather cups at hand then.
Ok the well over 100 pumps is to three bar. I raised the air fuel gal tonight. With the xl there is not paddle valve screw on the front. You raise and lower the u tube but you also have to loosen the burner nozzle to give it room to raise up. I will check the other things after I top the fuel off in the morning. I was to busy with the new HC Lightning bug tonight. Honestly it's insanely overbuilt and way to bright lol. My Austramax or Coleman are more useful but nowhere near the build.
