JC Higgins 710.74001 info

Discussion in 'Pressure Lamp Discussion Forum' started by John SB, Nov 28, 2015.

  1. John SB

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    I'd like some info on this lamps if any of you can help. I've had in for a couple of years, the obvious is that it's missing the globe and mantle. Are these still to be found anywhere or will a substitute work?? It seems to be mostly intact, except for a non-original wingnut on top. The pump SEEMS to be decent, but I've not taken anything apart. If parts are available, I'd like to get it working. I'm not so worried about doing a complete restoration (at least not yet) just wondering if I can even get the needed parts to make it functional. I don't have any real attachment to it, and I'm not a dedicated collector, so if I can't get it working I'd like to find someone that can use it. So what are my options here?

    1448675777-DSCN1659.JPG 1448675796-DSCN1658.JPG 1448675807-DSCN1657.JPG
     
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  2. Mackburner

    Mackburner United Kingdom RIP - Founder Member

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    These little lanterns are made in Hong Kong probably by the Union Metal Works. I think a Coleman 200 globe will fit and you can use a Coleman 21 mantle or equivalent. ::Neil::
     
  3. Bill Bowman United States

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    I am a brand new member and joined today. I too own one of these J.C. Higgin's 710.74001 pressure lanterns in patina'd used condition. With a little help from a lantern enthusiast buddy, this lantern works pretty well. I was able to join in on a "lantern walk" with about 100 other lantern owners at a camping event that I organize and host annually! It was GREAT fun!

    I am interested in learning if anyone out there can supply/sell any proper gaskets, seals, for this lantern. I'm sure that the leather-looking seal on the "pump-it-up" shaft has seen better days, and the seal inside the cap on the tank is definitely on it's last legs trying to hold pressure. It sounds like several different brands/types of mantles can be used on this lantern, so I need to get some back-ups as I already see deterioration on the used mantle currently on the lantern. And is it necessary to "pre-heat" the central fuel structure to properly get it to start up? I'd love to see the start-up instructions (step-by-step) for one of these units. Anyway, those are my immediate concerns.

    All the photos I have seen so far show that the cap on the fuel tank seems to have a small domed standard blade screw in the center of the cap, but my cap has no screw or hole at all. Hmmm. Is there a purpose for the screw? Perhaps to be "correct" I'll eventually need to find one of those? Also, my lantern has a surface-rusty wingnut holding the top cover onto the lantern, but all the other lanterns I see have a simple round knurled "nut" doing that job. I'd like to eventually fix that too.

    Sorry for all the newbie questions... So if anyone knowledgeable about these J.C. Higgin's lanterns can recommend a source of replacement or reproduction goodies I would sure appreciate your help/advice! If I can figure out how to post photos of my lantern and it's details, I'll shoot some and post 'em up... Thanks folks!

    Bill
    bill '@' bnnta.com
     
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  4. Henry Plews

    Henry Plews Subscriber

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    Hello and welcome @Bill Bowman.

    Old Coleman Parts > Parts > Lantern Parts should have most of what you may need.
    Filler Cap Gasket for 1 Piece Cap - S42

    Leather Pump Cup - S81

    200A Globe Clear - G01

    Coleman 21 mantles or equivalent (e.g. Peerless 2C-HG) are suitable but you'll get more light with Coleman 99. Unfortunately, I think they are no longer made but Peerless do a 24-A which they say are equivalent.
    Peerless Mantles 24-A - M04

    Lighting instructions are the same as for a similar Coleman lantern and go something like this:
    Ensure valve is closed then fill fount with fuel (Coleman fuel, camp fuel).
    (With pump pushed in), unscrew knob 1 full turn and with thumb over hole in pump knob, pump 25 to 30 strokes. With pump pushed in, turn clocwise to close.
    Insert lighted match through lighting hole and hold near mantle then open valve 1/4 turn. Mantle will take a few seconds to light.
    When flame settles and mantle burns evenly, open fuel valve fully.
    Pump an additional 15 to 20 strokes.

    Flames anywhere other than at mantle indicate a leak. Close valve, allow flames to burn out and lantern to cool. Fix leak !

    To extinguish, close fuel valve.

    NEVER remove or loosen fuel filler cap when lantern is burning or still hot. ALWAYS turn off lantern and allow to cool
    DO NOT use unleaded gasoline, it will eventually gum up the generator.

    To attach an image, click on "upload a file", select desired image (which will appear at the bottom of your post), choose either Thumbnail or Full image which will then appear in your post.
     
  5. Erwin Germany

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  6. Bill Bowman United States

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    Hi Henry,

    Thanks for the part number references, and for mentioning the "Old Coleman Parts" site. In my previous searches for info on my lantern I had discovered that same website, but couldn't decipher which Coleman parts that also could be used on my J.C. Higgins lantern.

    Also great photos of your Higgins lantern Erwin!

    Being a "newbie" here and to older lanterns in general, I hope to get my patina'd lantern to function well for our campouts and perhaps in the future, I might try to clean it up a bit more, maybe even restore it someday. While it is not beautiful, I'll get a few photos taken and see if I can post them up here soon. Thanks again for your advice and guidance!

    Bill
     
  7. Cottage Hill Bill

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    @Mackburner Neil, I'm confused by your comment that the OP's lantern was made in Hong Kong. 710 is the Sears maker code for AGM. Isn't this just a Sears badged AGM?
     
  8. Mackburner

    Mackburner United Kingdom RIP - Founder Member

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    Reese. You could be right. The lantern model is 74001 and Sears 388 74001 is marked as made in HK and near identical. This 710 74001 is very possibly an AGM for Sears lantern. Sears and Wards lamp models are by no means easy to ID although to some extent Sears are not as confusing as the Montgomery Ward list. I am by no means confident I have the truth in either list.

    This is Dean Doorholt's JCH 388-74001 which as you can see is pretty close to the 710-74001
    !!JC Higgins-388-74001_Dean Dorholt_02.jpg
    !!JC Higgins-388-74001_Dean Dorholt_09 collar stamp grey.jpg


    ::Neil::
     
  9. Cottage Hill Bill

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    Neil, at one time I had a more complete list of Sear's manufacturer codes which I have sadly misplaced. There are some on the 'net but are mostly for newer companies and some codes were reused. These are the one i have and am sure of.
    776 – Porolon
    710 – AGM
    476 – Coleman
    742 – Prentiss-Wabers

    Cheers,
    Reese
     
  10. Mackburner

    Mackburner United Kingdom RIP - Founder Member

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    When I compiled the Sears list I just used the model numbers given in the catalogues. The prefix codes are not included in the catalogues and as far as I know only appear on the product. Sears did sometime use the same model number for different manufacturers product which made the whole game rather difficult so I am not surprised I got some of the manufacturers wrong.

    You can add 520 to the above list because we have found a Nulite table lamp stamped in the base 520-07705.

    I have had a search on line and I will be adding this list to the PLC.


    155 Preway

    250 Turner Industries

    388 Probably - Union Metal Works Hong Kong.

    520 National Stamping & Electric (Nulite)

    710 AGM
    476 Coleman
    742 Prentiss-Wabers

    ::Neil::
     

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