My recently procured 282 is not producing as good a flame as my 295. The 295 has a lovely conical blue flame inside the mantles (like two tiny bunson burners). My 282 is producing a much less intense more yellow wavefront inside the mantle, which isn't stable and ebbs and flows from almost going out to filling 3/4 of the mantle. Pumping up the tank doesn't seem to affect the performance and allowing it to heat up for several minutes doesn't either. I'm assuming that a visible flame rather than a crisp blue jet means insufficient air, but what would be the cause? I've stripped the top half down and rebuilt it, to replace the bolt in the top of the burner assembly - without taking the generator apart. The burner assembly fix is airtight - with multi-layer aluminium foil washers on both sides of the hole in top of the burner assembly. I don't think that the generator is making the flame less blue, since they usually fail by letting less fuel in - which would make the mix leaner? So has anyone any idea if 1) it is indeed the symptom of a rich mixture and 2) if that is the problem, what do I need to do to get the 282 running as smoothly as my excellent 295? Thanks everyone.
It could be that the jet has become enlarged over time, particularly if it looks like its been well used. Old Coleman Parts in the US might have a replacement jet or a new generator if not.
Welcome to CPL Michael. Did you check there is no spiders or other opstruction in the air intake tube? I would pull the generator apart and clean it. If that doesn't work, as Colin said.
If you can access a cheap enough generator in the Uk, just a buy a new one and save yourself the hassle of cleaning. " It's always the generator" that's my conclusion getting my Coleman's running. Little else seems to go wrong with them.
If the jet were enlarged, surely the yellow flame at the burner would not only be constant but increase dramatically with increased pressure? I reckon the generator tube is clogged with either carbon or the treacle-like residue from unleaded petrol to the extent that what little fuel does exit the orifice is not going fast enough to draw in sufficient air to ensure a clean burn. Check out item 285-5891 here Coleman Spares Price List
Further update Gentlemen, and thanks for everyone's responses. I have checked the path from the generator to the mesh on the burner, there are no obstructions. I have also started testing it without a mantel so I can see the shape and size of the flame...... But I'm getting another different problem (the flame blows itself out) so I'll try again tomorrow with another mantel. I have changed the generator, and the burner is running a little better - but it is not stable. I can get a fairly nice blue cone from the burner (without a mantel) by also gently heating the generator with a butane torch while the burner is on, in case the lack of a mantel or glass is preventing the generator from getting hot enough. But I can't get a stable cone (either with or without heating the generator)..... now when I turn it up enough to get a nice blue cone the flame front migrates away from the burner and once it's an inch below it it blows itself out. I'll try again with a mantel and if it is still playing up I'll try to take some videos - since these are such simple devices I'm a bit mystified by the variable behaviour. This one is was much less bright than each of my 295 mantels that I'm tempted to buy another 282 to compare. But I have a fuel leak in my 'new' 424 stove to resolve before I get any more lamps BTW - I don't suppose anyone knows where I can get a 3 burner Coleman stove in the UK do they? I can get any number of them on ebay.com - if I want to pay import duty, VAT and $200 postage..... which frankly, I don't Michael
Air - intake..... hmmm, to be honest I haven't considered WHERE the air is drawn in.... I assume it's that slot above the top of the generator, but I'll have to check. If my other tests tomorrow fail I will strip it down again and make sure it's clear. It will be, but I'll have to check or I can't move onto the next theory. Michael
The flame blows itself out because there's no flame to hold it against the burner. Simply use less pressure.
Ahh, I suppose that I knew that really - to be honest no - I have taken the lamp apart including removing the whole of the burner and air tube - but I can't swear that I've looked up it for blockages - time to get the tools out again an be more thorough this time. Thanks for the photo. Michael
While you have the top off, pressurise the tank and open the valve, if the generator is o.k. a stream of fuel should reach at least between 300mm & 450mm before droplets begin to break away. If it doesn't, a new generator is needed.
Hi Everyone, Thanks for all the useful suggestions. All's well that ends well I stripped down the lamp and put it all back together again, making sure that the generator was seated perfectly. This made the flame better but not as good as I see on my 2 mantel lamp... BUT simply replacing the mantel made a huge difference. The old mantel had become a bit misshapen when it was first lit and I don't think that the space inside the mantel was the right size or shape to support a really hot flame. With another of the same brand of mantel, positioned to make the flame volume a bit bigger and more cylindrical I can juggle the control to get a stable, eye-wateringly bright, light. In fact I honestly believe it is 90% as bright as my 2 mantel lamp. So I think it was a combination of mantal size and shape and generator/air mix. Thanks again for everyone's help. Michael
@Michael D. Everyone has their own method for installing mantles. I have developed this one over time and I get a nice uniform expansion pretty much every time. This assumes a first light where the generator is starting empty of fuel. 1. Fuel and pump up the lantern. 2. Tie on the mantles. Orient the crease in the mantle away from the generator. 3. Open the fuel until you hear fuel beginning to flow into the generator. Shut the valve before fuel is coming out of the jet. 4. Burn in the mantles. I use a micro butane torch to burn both mantles at once. I start at the bottom but run the torch over the whole mantle. Once it's burning blowing gently on the mantles helps quickly get them to white ash. 5. Open the valve (1/4 turn on Colemans, as appropriate for lighting on other brands) and light as soon as there is fuel present. Often they will auto ignite if the mantle still has some red embers near the top.