This is one of my anchor 500cp . It has been about three years since I last fired this one up . Half filled the tank ,only had BBQ lighting fluid . I pressurised the tank opened the rapid pre heater and it roared into life as expected . I gave a little longer on the pre heat than normal turned the control valve and it popped into life . It's been running now for about 5 hours without a single issue . Love them or loath them you can't deny they do work good .
I've got some beautiful old lamps, some of them moderately rare and some really bright Colemans like the 635/639 but when we get a power cut, it's the Anchor 950s I grab every time. They're kept inside because the chrome is way too thin and prone to rusting but they're easy to start and belt out the lumins.
I agree that when you get a decent one they are reliable and bright, the only problem with mine is it gives off fumes when burning, I've messed about with it but it's still a stinker impossible to use indoors
I've got one just like that, the thing is, it's my only genuine* Petromax and it's a real stinker! Go figure! (* genuine but Chinese made.)
@rayw ,@ColinG Hi guys thanks for commenting . Ive had them sometimes where the smell of unburnt fuel fills the area . On one of my lamps I found purely by chance that the fuel wasn't going completely in the j tube , not sure if it was a bent frame or the vapouriser was out of line, I gave a little bit of gentle persuasion and that seemed to cure it . Marten
Thanks I'll certainly check that out, mine would be a great lamp if it didn't stink so much. I also have one which is marked Black's I assume they bought them in and put the Black's name on them.
As far as I know, they're just Anchor lanterns with a Blacks sticker. One of the members imported loads of them into the UK during the energy crisis of the 70s.... I think.
Yes that's right, I picked mine up at a very reasonable price from an add I saw, complete with box and it works fine , chrome is a bit damaged in places but I am satisfied with it.
@Madras took a look at my stinking lamp, twisted things around and tried it, but I noticed that the little baffle screw on the j tube was giving off a stream of smoke, so the vapor is escaping around the threads. I put some exhaust sealing paste on the threads and re tried it it still leaked so using a screwdriver I dabbed some over the area and it stopped and the stink stopped. In my experience I have only ever set them with the baffle in the fully open position and so I might run silver solder into the threads and seal it up permanently.
I had one where the whole vapouriser was warped. Also like you say gas was escaping from the baffle screw. I had a spare one so used that after some less that elegant straightening of brass tubes and rods…
Sorry for being so long before replying @ rayw Yes sometimes the brass gets a little worn with use this would allow for the gasses to escape like you have explained . That paddle has a wonderful name it's called a turbolator according to Petromax . I think you will need to braze the hole as I believe silver solder won't be strong enough unless you mean silver braze ? I've also had lamps with the blacks label and I have one labeled mannesman , I also two or three with that had the relum label . @ Fireexit1 I've had some scrappy ones but none with a bent vapouriser , right now I'm trying to repair/replace the nrv on the lower vapouriser as fuel pickup tube got twisted and won't allow the conducting rod to work . Marten
Well, inspired by your findings I decided to see if I could improve my old Anchor lamp. I stripped it down and cleaned the vaporiser then re built it putting copper grease on the joint and tightening it up. Re assembled it with a new mantle and fired it up, seems much better but a small hole quickly appeared in the mantle, so try again. Similar story and again a third time, I am getting fed up now so I tried another one tieing it very carefully lit it and left it to burn in properly. Stupidly I had neglected to fill up with paraffin and while i was away I presume ran low and it started to burp blowing the end off the mantle and blasting flames down onto the lamp which was protected by the lower plate BUT the quick start torch must have heated up and let the solder run. I was getting tired of the whole thing now but managed to re solder the quick start fitting onto the fount, but it would not hold pressure. Finally decided to put it back on the shelf until I could find the patience to mess with it again. Some days you don't win a dime.
I share your pain . I've always said that these lamps need constant maintenance but sometimes it's pure frustration , I'm on my second day of trying to solder a nrv on the vapouriser, I gave up yesterday every time I got it lined up it would slip,and when I do get it right the solder goes up into the fuel causing it to block . Oh the joys of tinkering hahaha
Silver solder = ‘hard’ solder = silbraze - mechanical (shear) strength good; melting point (depending on % of silver) high, capable of burner applications when containing a relatively low percentage of silver (30%) Lead solder (often ‘lead free’ these days) = ‘soft’ solder - mechanical (shear) strength low to moderate; melting point too low for applications in vicinity of the burner
Hi presscall Thanks for the extra info . I get a little confused with all the different types of solder or braze . I have a 5% silver solder x 3mm which is almost as soft as the lead free plumbers solder at 3 mm, so to my mind that silver solder is soft solder ? Marten
