Could these be the answer to the lack of good Tilley vaporisers. When the nozzle on the vap becomes buggered up completely and the bin is the only answer, could these be pressed into service. Possibly by cutting off the thread and brazing the nozzle directly to the vap pipe, or, just spit balling here, tapping the pipe to take the threaded nozzle. Perhaps it would mess with the correct air fuel mixture. The internal structure of the brass nozzle is conical so it should receive the pricker with very little trouble. I'm only a beginner at this so I don't actually know what I'm talking about. These may have been tried before and if so please ignore me I'm married and am used to it. All I need to do now is learn how to braze and tap pipe. Are there any threads on this site for that I wonder ??
I don't think you can braze brass. You would get a blob. Some sort of hard solder might work. I also doubt tapping a Tilley vapouriser is possible. It is made of tube and there is very little metal thickness to take a thread. If that is some common thread size like M5 (estimated by British Standard eyeball) you might manage to silver solder a threaded insert in the old vaporiser and then screw it together. Best of luck if you decide to try it.
I believe silver solder brazes brass to steel....not sure though cos I'm still researching it but I do take your point about the common thread being to rough for the pipe wall. Although the bottom screws off of the pipe on old vapes ... Perhaps it's possible to grind off the thread on the new jet and rethread with a much finer thread if there's enough meat on it. Won't know till they arrive on order. This is what I love about this site, .....being able to bounce ideas around people who know stuff.....
That's absolutely right. There is the other aspect about whether the hex head of that jet will sit happily up inside the spigot of a Tilley burner. We hope it will. I have some other as yet untested theories about what should happen with thermal contact surfaces between the vapouriser and the burner. I don't think they can be considered in isolation as two separate parts. My scrap parts bin tells me not.
1. There are (or were) steel vapourisers with brass nipples made, I think, in Korea or Taiwan, as replacement Tilley 606 and 169 vapourisers. I have some and they work; but I am not with them at the moment. 2. High temperature silver solder would be needed to “braze” brass to the steel of the Tilley vapouriser. Cheers Tony
Paul, there is a cross section showing the construction of the vapouriser in the Patent Section. https://classicpressurelamps.com/threads/1938-improvements-in-cleaning-wires-tilley-gb518977.1834/
Thanks Rob .... it would be great if the brass jet could be married to the vap but removable for replacement purposes instead of brazing. These jets cost e16 for 5. If we could get this to work it would be very economical. Thanks for your input. Many hands make light work.
I think the issue is that the upper part of a Tilley vapouriser clogs with carbon. It's not just a jet issue. Having cut the end off, you might be able to shift some of the carbon but I doubt it will be all.
Thanks Ian Yes that's definitely an issue. If a screw-able jet we're possible it would give access to the chamber you mention which would give ya a fighting chance to remove the carbon.
Thanks WimVe Pics always help. Great tutorial, but I don't have a lathe. This is something along the lines of what I am trying to do. Thanks for your input.
@Paul Burnell These is an example of the the Korean vapourisers: Korean Tilley Vapourisers Cheers Tony
Damn it, I lost half a cup of tea reading this...... how can autocorrect get it so qrong.... I meant to say Very average
Brazing brass to steel might work, but it probably won't last long due to the different thermal expansion coefficients. These will apply huge forces to the brazing seam when heating up / operation / cooling down. A friend of mine and fellow collector (Ludwig G.) has made that same experience with (and calculated the forces for) a homemade vaporizer for a Tilley or Vapalux he converted to burn alcohol.
Thanks Rob Loads of info there to digest. I see a few people have been down this road before and I may be just trying to reinvent the wheel.....Still... it is an interesting journey. Paul
Hi Martin I'm only new at this but find it fascinating, It really is a huge learning curve and mostly from site members who have years of experience. I take on board the different expansion and contraction rate of different metals And the stresses that would put on joints. The thread that Rob gave me experienced this and opted to move the joint further down the vape away from the heat, therefore lessening the strain on the braze. It may all come to nought but Luving the journey. Paul
Update on this project...... after copious amounts of beer and a crash course in brazing here are the results. Pictures speak louder than words so here they are....
Here is the end product .... Having taken advice and recommended threads from different people on here I got this far. JonD and Martin K mentioned different expansion rates of different metals which would lead to a failure of the joint so I brazed an M6 nut on the end of the vap to accept the jet. I ground this down to be accepted into the spigot. I removed the two conical inserts from the vap to make space for the new jet. I replaced the bottom one to allow for the locating of the pricker into the new jet. I also trimmed off some of the thread and countersunk the jet to facilitate the smooth action of the pricker. I tested the pricker on the bench to make sure there was enough penetration and there was. I did a pressure test and had a nice stream from the jet. Looked very promising. The first time I fired it up it seemed a little rich. I fiddled and faddled ( that's a word ) and just could'nt get it to settle down so suspected the seal between jet and the brazed nut might be letting fuel seep into the spigot. did another pressure and found a weep of fuel there. So I researched this and there was a suggestion of copper grease with I tried with no improvement. I tried flax and Boss White (Plumbers sealer) did another pressure test and this did the trick. Fired it up again and it was still a little rich although it did work. While I faddled ( told you it was a word) the pricker got buggered up. While fiddling with the valve to reduce the fuel I could actually feel the moment the pricker bent. I replaced the pricker and carried on fiddling. Moments later the second pricker buggered itself up. So, out of prickers I retired to reassess the situation. And thats where I am today. Thoughts 1) I suspect the inside of the jet is not conical enough to tolerate the insterting and re inserting of the pricker smoothly enough. 2)The jet states .2mm could be a dodgy jet 3) The valve/tap could be dodgy ( sometimes fiddling helped and sometimes it didnt,... very moody....reminds me of the wife somehow)
