Does anyone know how the wooden handle is removed on a 169? Having removed the burner, there is a collar but it's absolutely solid and won't unscrew .. but it is a screw? It refuses to budge and I'd rather not use excessive force but as it stands, I'll have to repair the top of the handle (there's some fire damage) with it in place which I can do if I have to, but I'd rather remove it if possible. As you can see, a previous owner has had a few 'accidents' and although you can use the handle as it is, it would be nice to tidy it up a bit.
I assumed it might unscrew but it'll need some chemical persuasion as it's rock solid at the moment! I might try using an acetone and transmission mix and leave it to soak overnight. The depression or 'cup' created by the collar and the thread is currently fluid tight so it's perfect for holding the thread loosening mix. Thanks for all your help guys, particularly Francisco.
Hurrah! The threaded 'cup' that holds the handle in place has been removed using my homemade device... The wooden clamp was made from a piece of scrap oak from an old kitchen cabinet. I've found that this type of clamp needs to be made from a hardwood. This is now being thoroughly cleaned. With the handle removed I can now start to build up the lost wood with good old Isopon P38 filler. I made a jig for the Nagel Chase hangle and repurposed it to work on the Coleman handle. Building up the filler and sanding it to the correct shape will be a long process. Fill, sand, assess, repeat will be the order of the day but I've devised some tricks to help me achieve the correct shape.
Progress so far... After a lot or gentle sanding and filling I got the handle about as good as I was able without a lathe. This was the primer I used to gauge the surface. The tank was then stripped, cleaned with Harpic MAX X10, washed with warm soapy water and prepped with panel wipe. I then used Painters Touch Antique White and SuperDec Gold. 2x coats of Antique white, allowed to dry for a couple of days and then a 3rd coat. This was left another day and the gold detailing added using a mask to prevent over spray on areas to be left white. The handle was sprayed Antique White, allowed to dry and the gold detail applied by putting the holding bolt in the chuck of a drill and rotating it slowly to apply the upper and lower faded gold areas. As everything has gone ok, the tank and handle are drying in my oven although it's not actually working at the moment due to an unknown fault. I intend to leave them in there for at least a week to dry thoroughly. Then I need to add a coat of fuel proof lacquer but that will have to wait as I've run out! Also, applying it sometimes bubbles the paint surface, making it quite nerve-racking! More updates to follow as an when time allows.
I forgot to mention, I chose this particular finish because it is used on two other Coleman table lamps - the 157 Empress... and the Coleman 132... I thought it really enhanced the shape so I gave it a go and thankfully it worked. The Antique White isn't quite 'cream' enough but it's hard to get a better colour over the counter, but I reckon it will darken with age.
Looks very good so far and I like the idea with the drill Often a fuel resistant lacquer can ‘yellow’ a pale colour slightly so that may help here? Halfrauds used to put a disclaimer on their rattle cans.
I've just posted the final result in my 169K post in the reference gallery. Any further updates will go there now.
