Tilley burner spigot stuck on vapouriser

Discussion in 'Fettling Forum' started by Jaska, Aug 31, 2023.

  1. Jaska

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  2. Jaska

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    But now, when I run it with the hood and burner from my other (perfectly functioning) Guardsman, it works flawlessly. I have no idea why this would be. Is the new burner from Juliands not working properly? The mantle installed on that burner is from him as well and I’ve installed it very painstakingly. The mantle on the “good” hood and burner is a Tilley 164 X.

    Here’s the video of the lamp burning with my “good” hood and burner.

    I don’t think there’s any point in testing the non-working burner on my other Guardsman since it’s clear I’ve got a good vapouriser on both of the lamps. Is there anything else to conclude other than that the new burner I’ve bought is at fault or the mantle is somehow no good?
     
  3. JEFF JOHNSON

    JEFF JOHNSON United Kingdom Subscriber

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    Your videos do not play for me, inside the burner dome there is a mixing tube and if that is not properly tightened then the burner will not work properly and all parts of the burner must be properly tightened.
     
  4. Jaska

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    Sorry that the links don’t work for you. It should be that anyone with the links can view the videos.

    I think the burner parts are snug as a bug but I can’t fiddle with the mixing tube now that a new mantle has been fitted. I went ahead and fired up my “good” Guardsman with the hood & burner combo from my project lamp and let it burn for quite a while. The performance improved to the point that I had no complaints with it. I’ll get back to testing the project lamp with this hood and burner soon…

    Now I have to contend with a new problem—the metal spray paint (Maston Hammer) I used on the frame softened while the lamp was burning and caused the glass to stick to it. The paint has dried and cured for over 48 hours. I had read on this forum that heat resistant paint is overkill for Tilley frames, but evidently it’s not. Now I wonder if overspraying it with heat resistant paint and baking it would solve the problem or if I need to remove all the paint and start the whole job over again :cry:.
     
  5. Fireexit1 United Kingdom

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    I beleive that the hoods from the GM and the X246 are a little different and will hold the burner in a different position relative to the end of the vapouriser on the "wrong" lantern. but it should not make too much difference.
     
  6. Jaska

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    I wondered about the X246B hood. I could try the original rusty Guardsman hood just to have more information about this, but I’m almost confident I can get it running with the existing setup.
     
  7. Fireexit1 United Kingdom

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    Your 50 pump video shows an overrich mixture, as denoted by the flaring (burning outside of the mantle) and the soot. This is normally the vapouriser jet is enlarged if all air tubes are OK
     
  8. JEFF JOHNSON

    JEFF JOHNSON United Kingdom Subscriber

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    You are making progress!:thumbup::thumbup:
     
  9. Jaska

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    I would tend to agree with that but the same vapouriser has been tested with the other lamp’s hood and burner and there was no such problem. I believe the vapouriser is fine. Also, the burner is brand new the air tubes are fitted correctly.
     
  10. Fireexit1 United Kingdom

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    So what happens if you swap vapourisers and leave everything else the same ?
     
  11. Jaska

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    Both lamp/vapouriser setups work perfectly with the hood and burner from the known good lantern. The known good lantern also works perfectly with the X246B hood and Juliands burner that I intend to use on the project lantern. I can’t do any more testing on the project lantern until I solve the paint problem with the frame.
     
  12. Fireexit1 United Kingdom

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    So by process of elimination - the issue is not either burner or vapouriser. It must be the tank or what is in it.
     
  13. Jaska

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    IMG_5594.jpeg

    Guardsman restoration complete.

    This has been a satisfying and rewarding little project, and Ilm thankful to all who have lent some advice along the way.

    Because of having used non-heat resistant paint on the frame, I ended up having to buy a soda blaster to completely remove the paint before applying three coats of Maston Heat Resistant 600 deg. C paint and baking the frame in the oven at 200 deg. C for an hour.

    I’m simply stunned at how the speculum-plated fount turned out. I know the picture doesn’t do it justice, but it literally looks brand new. I spent about an hour or two painstakingly polishing it with Turtle Wax All Metal Polish. That must be the best €4.50 I’ve spent in a long time. There are zero dings on the fount and the same number of visible imperfections in the finish. I must have gotten lucky because the lamp didn’t look very encouraging when I bought it.

    Best of all, the lantern works perfectly. If I’m able to pinpoint the previous problem with the burn quality, I would say it came down to the pump clamp having come abound half a turn loose from the threaded pump shaft. After checking everything over again and snugging that down it worked much better. It’s running at the full 100 pumps now and I’m pleased to see the pressure pip works just as it should.
     
    Last edited: Sep 9, 2023
  14. Tony Press

    Tony Press Australia Subscriber

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    Nice work, @Jaska.

    Enjoy your lantern.


    Cheers

    Tony
     
  15. Jaska

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    Thanks, Tony! :)
     
  16. JEFF JOHNSON

    JEFF JOHNSON United Kingdom Subscriber

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    It's working well now!:thumbup::clap::clap::thumbup:
     
  17. Jaska

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    It sure is, and if you zoom in on the photo, you’ll see my trusty red companion is right beside me making sure everything’s OK ;).
     

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