Petromax 827

Hello,

Someone is selling this 827. I know you can find much info on the net, but your opinion is very important as well. Any comment is useful. Enjoy these two pics in the meantime.

Thanks

 

These Petromax 827 with rotary knobs were the first of the 827 type. They were made in the second half of the 1930s.
The very thin intake pipe of the Rapid breaks off very easily at the screwed-in part during disassembly. It is best to keep together.There are no spare parts for this Rapid.This pressure lamp is an absolute must have for the avid Petromax collector.

 

Hello Reinhard,

Thanks for your quick answer. It seems to me that part# 220 is missing unfortunately. I can see from the pics I attached . Is it the same part from hytta.de? I mean, or is it a tube slightly different or exactly the same?.

 

I can confirm that the flame tube on the rapid pre-heater torch is interchangeable with the modern #220 part.
I also fitted a standard Pmax spirit cup on mine.

Brilliant find, by the way. Congratulations!

 

The original flame prtection tube looks different and is 8mm shorter.

 

Great info. Reinhard, I know they are hard to find, but if you know there is a spare one, please let me know.

 

Guys,


Today I got my parcel with the lantern. The previous pics were not good quality actually. After examining, I noticed it was a 827-200cp, not a 250 cp as I said before.
My question is, I see no 200 cp spare parts on the net. Can I use 250 cp parts instead?. For instance, I need to order some rods' sections from the carburetor, needles and a nozzle.
I hope you can give me a hand as usual.
Thanks

 

A good find!

 

@Adolfo
You can use a 250 jet and cleaning needle.You will probably have to make the upper rod #101 youself.Or you take a longer one and shorten it.You can use the graphite pack #108 for both control buttons.For the Rapid you have to shorten it with a knife.

 

If you want to keep this lantern original you should not put in a 250cp jet/nozzle to replace the original 200Hk parts.
It will be hard to find but they can be found.
I doubt if the pith of the thread is the same.

 

200 cp parts are very very difficult to find. The jet I removed from the lantern was a 500cp indeed.
This part is hard to unscrew, I don't want to screw it up (any tip). I see only one hole on the rapid cone. I read there were three.

 

DE645164
Pos. 13

 

Sorry WimVe, I'm a bit confused. What do you mean by pos.13? That the lantern was made after 1913 because of the rapid part's shape (cone)?
The document you attached is in German, but I see the shape I included before . Thanks

 

You mention the amount of holes.
I gave a link to the patent drawing on which pos. 13 are the extra air holes.
Yes it is a German patent maybe you can find an english version which I presume would also exist.

 

I was just in the basement checking.
If you value originality you can have the parts for free.I also value originality,but not when it comes to wearing parts like jets.
The threads of 200HK and 250cp jets are the same.I tried it.But they are all older jets.It is possible that the new ones from China are a little different.

 

@Adolfo
While the 200cp original Petromax parts are no longer produced, you might try your luck sourcing modern-made ones, such as OHO from Taiwan.
I'm neither sure if they are compatible with the originals nor have the same dimensions on the jet orifices. There are more than source of OHO parts. Ebay is also another one.
https://m.pcstore.com.tw/oceanhill/M31854279.htm

 

Reinhard,
Thanks for the offer. You please tell me how to contact you for further details. (private message).

MYN,
Thank you too. I'll put an eye on that.

 

When I saw the OHO price was $100 I first thought of USD - that's a lot for a jet nipple!

Now I find the $ are TWD and $40 = £1. So they are actually £2.50 - quite a good price before adding any shipping.

 

Hello guys,
I'm trying to clean this tube from the 827/200 rapid. Could anyone suggest a good technique? The nut that points my finger is really stuck. I have tried with one adjustable spanner and the multi-service tool but I haven't had any success. Is it really important to unscrew that nut?
The bottom filter seems to be better after some mild brushing.
This part of the lantern is really hard to clean.

Thank you all!

 

Put the lower nut into a vice, then heat up the upper part and try to get it separated.

Put think from manufacturing: the sieve it should be possible to turn it of the tube. But CAREFULLY !! I managed to twist this tube without any problems..

 

Dear Reinhard,
Just a moment ago the mailman left the parcel with your parts for the 827, it was a long journey, wasn't it?.
Thank you very much for sharing these parts with me, I really appreciate them, your assistance and kind manners. I hope to light the lantern soon.
You really made my day!!

 

@Adolfo
Good luck
We pressure lamp freaks help each other all over the world.

 

Guys,

I'm in trouble. After removing the original lead washers from the carburator and rapid and replace those for new ones I can't find the right position when installing those parts in the cage. Is there any technique or tip to find the right adjustment?.
I don't want to damage the tank when using the improper adjust.
I hope someone understand my trouble.

 

Not sure if I understand correctly, but here's a try:
You should look at the proper orientation of the vaporizer and preheater as shown in the pictures here above in this thread. The gland nuts should be directed straight outwards to the fittings where they are screwed in.
The reason why lead is used is that it will deform so that you can adjust the right angle. But don't tighten too far because they will leak when loosened again.

 

Martín K,
You are right. Someone told me to use to use two monkey wrenches (spanners). One for the carburator/rapid and the other for at the base of the part (holding that nut that is fitted on the tank).
Thanks for your help

 

Hello,
Any suggestion how to clean the 827 rapid's pipe? (upper section). I think it got some welding inside when heating the tube. I'm planning to use a 1 m/m drill.
The lower section which is wider in diameter is okay.

 

Many moons ago that I had one apart but I don't recall two pieces of tube (pipe).
Only one tube with a filter screwed on.

 

..a real pain in the a***, but I won't give up. I already got a 1mm drill and the piece of equipment for that is on its way.
We will see what happens then

 

I have used a single steel wire from a bowden cable, about 0.3 mm dia. Because it was spliced off the inner rope, it was bent a little wavy and scraped out the fuel residues very well. It was also stiff enough to be pushed through the tube.
The tube unscrews from the nozzle.

 

Hello everyone!

Here I have some results, I'm still testing the pressure. I hope to burn a mantle today at night.
I would like to thank everyone in here for being supportive. Special thanks to Reinhard from Germany (the parts you gave me were outstanding and really necessary) & Omar and Cesar from Chile for sharing some technical assistance.