I’ve acquired a Tilley X359 but without the distinctive hood. Here’s @Sedgman ’s example from the Reference Gallery. I set about exploring possibilities to construct something resembling that from a rough 246A/B hood. Separated into component parts, I see B as having a close resemblance to a major element of the X359 hood, which would make sense to a Tilley production engineer eager to utilise existing machinery and processes. C goes into A … … and the assembly goes onto B. Well, getting there! A spacer cylinder needs to raise the cap (to be reduced in diameter by about 20mm) the whole to be silbrazed up and I need to fabricate some air buttons, maybe nickel-plating some brass Bialaddin ones. John
I hadn't appreciated the similarities. It has always seemed odd that Tilley should put a different style hood on the X359 to other lanterns. Does anyone have suggestions as to why this might be?
@Ian Bingham My suggestion is that the speculum plated new-profile tank, a new hood design and a new frame design completed the credentials of a lamp marketed on the cusp of a new decade. Coupled of course with what proved to be a troublesome pre-heater torch. A couple of years later the 246A appeared, rowing back on the more radical elements of the X359. Gone the pre-heater and the frame ‘missing’ its central globe protecting ring. Gone too the hood requiring a departure from the Guardsman’s well-established fabrication process and method of construction without the need for air buttons.
@presscall Excellent work and ingenuity through out John, i dont know how you think of such solutions well done there
My recollection is there is a size difference. I am sure I bought a missing air button and it was Bialladin and too small for Tilley. Very interesting project, John and clever spotting these reassembled similarities. Well done.
That’s right @Sedgman, they’re certainly not a fit and I visualise fabricating a hybrid Tilley/Bialaddin button.
If I remember right I think the bialaddin air tubes will fit the tilley burner then the air buttons can be used . Regards Ian
Yes they will fit but they are longer and with a shorter end thread which will stand the buttons out too far. ::Neil::
Update The air buttons I’ll be using are a hybrid construction of Tilley and Bialaddin components, using the Tilley buttons, pared down, as thread inserts silver soldered in place. I’ve to cut diametrical screw slots on the outer faces, polish and nickel plate them. The hood’s worked out satisfactorily. Silver soldered construction. The top cap has a larger diameter than the genuine article and I could reduce the diameter. I’d then leave an un-enamelled bare steel cut edge however and I rather like the existing out-turned edge. John
Meant to include this photo of the assembly before the cap brim was attached, showing the exhaust vents.
The air buttons polished and with a screwdriver slot cut in each face. I’ll be nickel plating them when I’ve made up some fresh electrolyte.
Fresh electrolyte in process. Distilled white vinegar, a pinch of salt to make it more electrically conductive and nickel cathode and anode. When I’ve judged the electrolyte is made (green enough) the cathode is put aside and the workpiece becomes the cathode, connected to the negative terminal of the 6 volt DC supply. Comparison of one of the air buttons yet to plate and one plated. Installed.
Well, who needs those expensive kits ? an old 6v battery charger, white distilled vinegar and two strips of nickel.
@Fireexit1 That about sums it up Chris. Having plated a number of things now, I’ve got wise to the sense of making up only enough electrolyte for the specific project. It’s more economical in the use of nickel and the electrolyte gets spent after a few jobs and has to be discarded.
