The pricker was missing from the control rod of my Veritas bowl fire project. The threads the pricker screws into are presumably British Association (BA) but I found that metric M2 are a very close match. First option is this assembly, using an M2 screw and nuts. A groove is cut with a fine cutting wheel in a Dremel and a pricker wire of suitable gauge is clamped between two nuts with a third serving as a lock nut. The other option I had used one of these, brass sleeves with an M2 tapped hole, used to embed in 3D printing projects to allow assembly with M2 screws. £4-something for 200 from an online source. Since I’d used a Primus 1020 lantern jet to replace the worn Veritas original (threads compatible, @Henry Plews established) I decided to use the corresponding Primus pricker. It’s a stubby thing, with a short length of threads a close enough match to screw into one of the brass sleeves. It needed to be silver soldered to the sleeve however to prevent it working loose. To do that without vapourising the pricker wire in the heat of the MAPP torch I shielded the wire by sandwiching it between two thin steel sheet offcuts. One of the brass sleeves alongside to show how stubby the Primus pricker is. A short length of M2 screwed rod was then screwed into the pricker assembly … … and that was then screwed tightly home into the Veritas pricker control rod. The pricker height was adjusted with the control rod’s adjustment screw and locknut to give the right amount of pricker projecting when in the raised position. John
Enjoyed the post john handy tips and i like the heat shielding idea for the pricker wire simple but very effective i should think. The parts look big on the photos but i know they are very fiddly to construct Chèers pete
