From an R55 bowl fire, sound overall but for this defective fuel gauge. There’s the problem, a backing paper disc that’s not only faded but crumpled, preventing free rotation of the magnetised needle. The effect is evident in this video. The brass mount is just that of course, with no mechanical connection between the magnet on the float rod and what’s essentially a compass. Having fettled a missing fuel gauge ‘compass’ for a Tilley floodlight HERE I’m reasonably confident I’ll be able to dismantle the compass and replace the dial paper. More to follow. John
A good fettle there. A clever design for the level gauge. Seems that similar magnetized styles were also used on some Swedish devices.
Compass component dismantled. Done by cutting circumferentially around the aluminium casing to separate front from back glasses, which trap the indicator needle pivot axle between a shallow circular depression in each glass.
I'm trying a similar thing with the gauge from an FL6 flood lamp (like your other post). It appears to be brass/aluminium like the one you've shown above. My question is, how did you re-fix the back ring that you'd cut off? I can't see if you've soldered it or used some other method!
@Oliver Good point, I didn’t cover that. Solder wouldn’t bond with aluminium and the heat of the process would crack the glass. I used a thread sealant to bond the assembly into the housing for it on the tank.
@D_Vernon That’s how I’d go about it. Clearly, taking heat to it isn’t an option (destroys glass/needle/indicator card if it’s good) and attempting to prise the bezel off will surely break the glass. Retaining the original glass (front and back) of the gauge intact is crucial because they’re irreplaceable, being microscope slide thin and having a dimple central to each to create a bearing for the needle axle.
That may be the one thing not getting repaired , not sure yet but know I could use my Dremel and a thin cutting disc , cut in the crease just on the top side of the hex nut , I was really hoping the lens glass was in its own separate ring and just pressed in but looks like the whole fitting was made from one piece , gauge face dropped in , needle attached , the dropped the glass in and pressed the outer lip down on top of the glass . Not that any of the cutting would cause it to lead fuel anywhere but the seam from reattaching the lens would be so noticable , if I do attempt it I'd probably take an old Coleman brass piece and get some file shavings from it to mix with some 2 part epoxy to glue it back on and hopefully be not so noticable and yes , it the card or clock face that's warped causing the needle to stop in certain points
