Heat resistant enamel paint

I have a quite rusty hood that i wish to sand and recoat with heat resistant enamel paint. Does anyone know a stockist or where i can buy some and whats the best stuff to use? Thanks in advance, Neil

 

What sort of hood is it? I have tried all sorts of "enamelled" paints and none of them really stand up to the heat for very long. Real re-enamelling is so very expensive it is prohibitive. I have used ultra-high exhaust paints, oven enamel paints etc. OK it stays on, but does not keep either its true colour or its finish. Steve

 

Hi Neil,

I've used black high temp stove paint but it goes matt when heated. Doesn't look like the original but it's not too bad and it halts the rust's progress.

Unless it's a rare lamp, I can't see that it's worth the effort to recreate the original finish. For more common lamps it's easier to get a replacement but it may take time. I have been after a hood for a Bialaddin 310 and picked up a glassless lamp with a mint hood for £4.00 at an August Bank Holiday boot fair. Took me six months though.

Regards,
Terry

 

Whoever comes up with a truly heatproof gloss paint in a range of colours will make millions. If it could be done, it would have by now, hence I'm not hopeful...

Well done with the replacement hood, Terry, but if you use it, it'll soon succumb to the usual damage. British vitreous enamel doesn't seem as high quality as the US variety (what they refer to as 'porcelain') and those two-piece Bialaddin hoods seem particularly prone to heat damage. It seems to arise initially where the two parts are welded together, presumably due to the differential expansion of the weld metal against the hood metal. Then water gets in and what was a circular series of areas of enamel loss becomes a complete ring (and worse)...

 

If you don't mind a flat finish, this paint VHT Flameproof is good to 2000 deg. F and comes in some decent colors.

Needs to be cured though, and the last curing temperature of 650 deg exceeds any oven in my house.
I suppose the lantern itself would do.

What is the temperature that a hood is subjected to under normal circumstances?

Dan

 

Thanks guys, the hood in question is a bialaddin 300x which is green but has lots of rust patches all over it. I was thinking of sanding and respraying just to tidy up if anything.

 

I have some brass replica caps for sale. There were 300Xs that had original brass caps. See my post in the Trading forum. Steve.

 

Hi neil there is no real substitute for enammel,there are various high tempreture paints out there.
The last one i used was a product called thermacure wood stove paint,which is suposed to withstand tempreture of around 600degrees celcious.
Which i used on my Tilley guardsman lantern,like all the high temp paint the finnish is matt.
The instructions on the can, said it can with stand the tempreture of 600d celcious, but it must be gradually heated to that tempreture other wise it will blister.
This will work fine on a wood/coke stove, that will take a while for the parts painted, to reach a high tempreture, but a lantern hood during primming will reach its tempreture in seconds with a flaming torch/spirit cup under it.
Which the Guardsmant hood did blister,so it had to be stripped down again and repainted.
After the second time i repainted it, prior to primming the Guardsman i slowly cured the paint with a hot air paint stripper,holding it a good distance away and moving it slowly closer,eventually i could drop water on it and it would sizzle away there were no blistering.
But i havae not fired it up since so i dont know if i would have to repeat this procedure before fireing it up to prevent it blistering.

 

Hi neil there is no real substitute for enammel,there are various high tempreture paints out there.
The last one i used was a product called thermacure wood stove paint,which is suposed to withstand tempreture of around 600degrees celcious.
Which i used on my Tilley guardsman lantern,like all the high temp paint the finnish is matt.
The instructions on the can, said it can with stand the tempreture of 600d celcious, but it must be gradually heated to that tempreture other wise it will blister.
This will work fine on a wood/coke stove, that will take a while for the parts painted, to reach a high tempreture, but a lantern hood during primming will reach its tempreture in seconds with a flaming torch/spirit cup under it.
Which the Guardsmant hood did blister,so it had to be stripped down again and repainted.
After the second time i repainted it, prior to primming the Guardsman i slowly cured the paint with a hot air paint stripper,holding it a good distance away and moving it slowly closer,eventually i could drop water on it and it would sizzle away there were no blistering.
But i havae not fired it up since so i dont know if i would have to repeat this procedure before fireing it up to prevent it blistering.

 

Or this...

 

I sandblasted the enamel off the top of a Tilley hood and then sprayed it with one coat of heat resistant engine paint, mat black. Then cured it in a kiln at the specified temp and time period. The paint stood up to subsequent use of the lantern, however a hood I had in a damp location did not take long to go rusty. So whether it would take several coats of paint to protect it from rust I am unable to say. In the long-run I don't think it is worth the effort and cost of curing painted hoods. Just cannibalize one from another lantern if possible.

 

Thanks guys for all your advice and suggestions. I once saw a perfect brown hood from a guardsman on the bay where the chap had stated he had re-enamelled it. I dropped him a message asking where he sourced the enamel from, turns out it was another ebay seller offering to mix up a match of your choice if a sample was provided. I never got round to trying for myself although i wish i had now. I cant seem to find the guy now either... gutted. Ive also listed in the wanted section, but if anyone has a 300x glass for sale or trade then im all ears Cheers, Neil

 

The air filter housing never gets all that hot because of all the cool air being pulled through it. Regular engine enamel would be just fine. Only places you need to use special heat resistant paint is on exhaust manifolds and the like.

Problem with a lot of paints meant for high temperature applications is they have to be cured by operation or in an industrial oven otherwise they rub off. Regular engine enamel paint is durable enough for that type of application and cures on it's own.