Hi, another newbie/dumb questiom.. I got this Optimus 1550, running almost ok. But its flaming from the top, and it seems like its burning, in the gap between the vaporizer and the inner chimney...any suggestions? Thanks in advance Per
@Per Yes, good advice the spirit dish is right in the bottom of the dish/plate so maybe try refilling (carefully) and give another preheat as soon as safely possible? Also how many pumps are you pumping?? regards, pb
Hi. My model, is with the preheather, and I did preheath aprox. 2 minutes and 30 pumps and made additional pumps, after preheating. Regards Per
Hi! It’s common that kerosene leaks out due to misalignment of the nozzle. Put some exhaust putt to seal there. And also, do clean the preston loop thorougly. Lastly, we love pictures. Have a nice weekend Regards Matti
Hi, I disasembled, put back togheter, and with no mantle, and glass, it burned ok some of the time, but bursted in to flames occasionaly. (See pictures) I use "smeell free petroleum" like kerosene, I guess?
@Per Did you set the gap between jtube and jet at 14mm? use the 350/500 section of the wrench to set the gap. here's another photo on how to set the gap from another member:
Do You have a picture of the fuel bottle? If it says ”Lampeolie” it’s the wrong fuel. The right one is called ”Petroleum”, ”Fotogen or Lysfotogen” in swedish, the eqvivalent of ”Kerosene” in english.
I also once had an Optimus 1550 with 550 cp. The preheating shell sits too deep.It has a structural preheating problem.
The danish description, fully understandable for a swede, says it’s used for cleaning oilpainting tools and rust, and that is not coming into my lanterns. @Per Du skal bruge fotogen, der bruges i fx et petroleumskomfur.
CAS 64771-72-8: eChemPortal - Home Borup Lugtfri Petroleum MSDS: https://www.jefaclean.dk/images/petroleum_lugtfri_clp.pdf Tony
@Matti Kucer Fancy talk for "Odorless Mineral Spirits" In the US. Many have argued it's better to run odorless mineral spirits in pressure lamps for slightly higher volatility and cleaner burn with reduced buildup, my opinion remains undecided on mineral spirits. Anyways CAS numbers show what it actually is and are never fudged or falsified due to actual laws that oversees CAS identification, very important for hazmat accidents as every hazardous material and chemicals have different ways of cleaning up and controlling. It is very important for responders to know what they're working with.
Matti, it is not called "fotogen" in Danish. Kerosene is "petroleum". What Per shows should be fine. @Per What I have had good experience with is using HeatMax Gold from Harald Nyborg. Where in Denmark are you? Maybe one of the collectors here can help you. Send a PM if you need help in Danish.
Thanks, for all the advices.. I'll try with heatmax...and I'm from sydjælland. It seems like a heating problem..after flaming up, it burns ok, and then flaming up again. I Will also try to measure the gap between nozle and chimney. Now collecting new mantles at the postoffice, and buying more fuel, to further testing
Strange that nobody is asking what you do when you set the lantern alight. Outside without mantle and globe, pre heating is almost none existing.
Exactly my conclusion, for now but I did it becaurse I've had troubles with it before, and would see if the other problems were fixed, without Wasting more mantles..
The Borup Lugtfri Petroleum is predominantly a mixture of paraffins having carbon number between C5-C20. Although it is sometimes also called kerosene, the official Substance Name is actually: Paraffins (petroleum), normal C5-20. The main substance has a Cas No. 64771-72-8. Based on the following table and assuming it is mostly paraffins(alkanes), you can roughly tell that the boiling range would be between 36°C to 343°C:- The real kerosene has a Cas No. 8008-20-6 and the official Substance Name is still: Kerosene or Kerosine. It is a mixture of mostly paraffins and some olefins and aromatics, having the carbon number falling mostly between C9-C16. The boiling range usually falls between around 150°C to 290°C plus/minus 10°C. It might be that the upper boiling temperature for the Borup Lugtfri Petroleum may be a little too high, resulting in the flame-up shortly after the lantern's startup. Choose a kerosene-type fuel having an upper or final boiling point that is lower than 300°C. It is not always the case that a vaporizer would maintain a temperature range of 300°-350°C especially when the fuel is already flowing and when operating the lantern without a glass globe or hood. ***Although such temperatures are often attainable when operating at high outputs, it is not particularly favourable because fuel pyrolysis and carbonization potential is very high above 300°C.
Now its burning Stanble, an the way it's supposed to, thanks to all of your advices...still using borup lugtfri petroleum, but have cleaned everything again, AND adjusted the nozle/ inner chimney distance to 14 mm. It was way under before. Thanks for all of your input, I have learned a lot about my kerosene lamp here
Update: heatmax gold is way better, than lugtfri petroleum (thanks Nils)...I do have a lot of parts, so I might try to bring one more, back to life..thanks again, for all of yours inputs
