Hello all, I have recently (Tuesday) got an old Tilley Heater, I have taken it a part and it needs new seals and pump needs the leather cup, I have a couple questions, Was lead used as a sealant in the plunger tube? How does the Tilley vapouriser work compared to a Bialaddin? (as that is what I have worked with) , I am not seeing any small hole at the top where I would have expected one There is also a couple of small screw heads missing to attach the bowl the screws are their thankfully, any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Cheers
Hi There are no lead seals on a tilley heater. All rubber seals and as you say leather pump cup. The bowl type heaters use the same seals/pump as the lanterns. Make sure you get the older Cock and NRV seals (round discs). The seal kit from Fettlebox will do nicely, the geniune Tilley one will have square seals for the aforementioned. Brass Parts are solderd together. The vapouriser works exactly the same as the Bialaddin one. I suspect you have dirt on the end of yours. The pricker should just poke through the hole. I think the bowl screw/nuts are a BA thread. good luck
base-camp.co.uk This place will sort you for spares. No lead is used on them. The NRV can collect dirt. but is easily sorted. Mike at base camp dose a nice seal kit. The screws are imperial. They can be removed, but care is needed. Simple to get to NRV.
IIRC the nuts that hold the reflector on are actually table lamp gallery nuts, also obtainable from base camp. The thread is 4BA.
Hello all I have replace the seals in the pump bar one which is damaged but it still holding on for dear life and I am unable to get it out, the pump works quite well but there is an issue with tank itself the pressure gauge glass is gone so I don't know it that will effect pressure or not but if it does is there a way to seal it?. Cheers.
Hi @Balach Mor Do you mean the fuel level gauge? Is it a heater with the big steel tank? cheers edit : a photo will help here with advice for the correct model?
I'm not sure it is a gauge on side of the tank, it being the fuel gauge would make sense, I believe the tank is made out of steel with a mettalic coating/paint as most of the tank has surface rust on it
Ok, it sounds like the larger fuel tank that was used on the R55 and similar on the other livestock or brood heater types I believe that the hex fitting is the seal to the tank (possible lead/fibre washer) so having no glass doesn’t mean a leak does that make sense?? Which heater most resembles yours?
I believe it is an R55 as the fuel tank is quite large, any ideas on how to get the damaged washer out it on the fitting where the pump system meets the tank?
I am assuming this type of washer? (it’s a different pump but the same principle having a washer in a recess) I use a dental type pick (ebay) as pictured but small watchmaker type screwdrivers are useful if the washer is rock hard??
Hello again all!, after a long hiatus I'm back on the R55 project, I have replaced all the seals in pump but I don't if it is kaput or if may have not done it correctly as the tank doesn't hold pressure and after a few pumps the pump squirts some paraffin out, any ideas would much appreciated, cheers
It's important to make sure the rubber pip is pressed firmly and squarely in its brass cup. Are you sure the non return valve assembly is the right way round?
That'll do it. Base Camp have the springs (part No. 610). You can make your own by shortening one from a ball point pen.
I'm impressed by the ingenuity, it works a treat, it now pressurises but I it leak at the control tap now where the picker contol is, do I need to replace it or is there a way to take it apart?, Cheers.
@Balach Mor 1. Unscrew the control knob (anti-clockwise) from its shaft. 2. Unscrew the packing nut from the shaft, and removed the washer or O-ring(s) inside the packing nut. You might need to use a bit of heat on the rubber washers inside. 3. Replace with a new washer. I use two O-rings (supplied by The Fettle Box). Cheers Tony
you may have a different plastic control knob ? should just pull off will you be posting some pictures as well at some point? happy solstice p
Oh that’s a good pic I’ll delete most of mine edit : great paperwork Tony ; is that your own stock there? Thanks p
It’s mine, @podbros. I’ll check the Reference Gallery, and if it’s not there, I’ll post it. EDIT: It’s the same pamphlet as this one: https://classicpressurelamps.com/threads/tilley-x246-instructions.22888/ Cheers Tony
While I wait for the seals to arrive, is there a good source for the ceramic insulator and the wire mantle?.
Ceramic insulating tube #165 and (reproduction) wire mantle #1126 are available from both Base-Camp and eBay seller Juliands. The repro mantles do the job but they aren't as robust as original ones.
I'm actually trying to restart a similar R55 and while I've been able to find all the other seals from both here and the Bay of E, I had a vaporizer rupture and resulting bon fire during a (fortunately) outdoor test firing. Best I can tell so far, it was just the generator (as Coleman calls the same part.) For some reason, I can find a few places with photos of them but nobody seems to have them to where I can make a purchase or acquisition. Has anyone found a place to acquire such a part? I believe it may be the 7 inch size instead of the 5 inch, but I'll have to measure. Also, are they interchangeable and just position the burner at a different height?
The vapourisers are not interchangeable in so far as a short (606) vapouriser sits the mantle low with respect to the reflector. The vapouriser you want is the 169. The Base Camp (UK) has a replacement for them. Tony
