Stupid question regarding Coleman Q77, Q99, and R55 generator jets...

The question. Does the Q77/Q99/R55 use the jet/tip from a Coleman 200 generator? Or am I crazy?

The story:
I do not know if you remember me and my fiasco with trying to get 1 Coleman quick light lantern going but here is that mess haha.
I think I need to figure out Mica...2 project Coleman quick lites | Classic Pressure Lamps & Heaters

Well I actually ended up building 3 of them, the last being a 427 with the external pump tube. Well I was trying to find another mica globe for that one (beat up one) and ended up seeing a lantern that was cheaper than buying a globe but was a complete lantern. Listed as an "antique coleman lantern" it looked like a slant 1929 instalight/quicklite.

Before I knew it...wife ended up going into her ebay and buying it for me as she was having a hard time to find me something for christmas.

So it comes saturday but will have to wait to clean it up for a while...so here is the listing photos for now.

 

@Remus1956
The information you need is in the attached table, with a bit of a delve!

 

Thanks @presscall ... Going at it now

 

And thank you @presscall that exactly explained what i needed to know

 

The Q99 & Q77 gens used an un-shielded (flat topped) 0.008" orfice. The R55 would use the same size orfice, but have a built in shield to protect the pricker when sticking through the orfice. The 242/200 sized orfice measures at 0.007"

 

At 1929 it could have a T88 generator which incorporates a pricker screwed into the end of the needle valve. Looks the same as a Q77 externaly but different innards. ::Neil::

 

@Mackburner I'll have to check it... Do I need to remove it or can it be seen from the outside?

 

Externally the are the same. If you remove the gen either there will be a rod exposed or not. You can unscrew the gland of the control and unscrew the control needle valve. That needle valve end for T88 has a threaded end for a pricker rod. If the gen is a T88 there will be a rod but sometimes this has been removed and a Q77 gen fitted so there is the thread but no rod. The T88 gen is long obsolete but there was an Iron which used the same generator with a different tip but the lamp will run fine with anyof the Q gens. ::Neil::

 

@Mackburner I think it's a steel Q77. I do not see a rod here... The knob looks like you could screw a rod into it... But no rod exists.

 

Sounds about right. The rod screwed into the point of the needle valve but would have been removed to fit a replacement Q77 gen. ::Neil::.

 

The T88 was rather short lived and troublesome. Coleman decided the Q77 was much more user for their dirtier fuel of the era. I've built T88 setups out of the iron gens for all the slant lamps and lanterns in my collection as they are a fun project and I like the adjustable light output.

 

@Toby Garner I am almost sure this one is a steel one...you say they can be converted? Is there a post you can show me?

 

@Remus1956 the steel Q77's are fairly common. I'm guessing they were sold through the war years.

As far as converting to a T88, the first step is to pull the valve stem and make sure that it is threaded for the rod. Most of those Reese's cup style valve wheels have the threaded stem, but not all of them. If you're lucky enough to have the threaded stem, then you need to source a 603-299 iron generator to start the conversion.

Here's my process for the conversion:

Slant T88 conversation (take 2) - The Coleman Collectors Forum

 

@Toby Garner is this the correct valve stem?

 

You'll have to remove the valve stem from your valve to be able to tell if it's threaded. Click on that link I shared above and I should have all the photos you need to know.

 

@Toby Garner yep... Looks like it!

 

Yessir!

 

@Toby Garner perfect!!! Just found this and bought it!

 

That's what you needed!

 

@Toby Garner question...can brass screen work instead of the steel wool? Just curious as it works in stoves...

 

It's worth a shot. I use bronze wool because I have it, but try the screen. If it pulses you need more or a different material.

 

@Toby Garner delving deeper... This thing is interesting...I know it's a fuel pickup but I guess it's how the instant light works...

Wonder where to prick it...air goes through it (big plus)

 

Under that screen will be a small orfice. This orfice and screen need to be spotless as well as the fount and fuel you run for the instant light circuit to work correctly. I like to pull them apart and soak them in lye to remove any organics. Then I use a spare gen pricker to make sure the orfice is good and clear before reassembly.

 

@Toby Garner thanks...didnt know they came apart. Will do!

 

@Toby Garner ok I have the generator...I think I am a little confused.
So... Use this cleaning needle...and install this as you described...into this tube with a Q77 tip?

 

Correct. You can use the iron gen orfice also, but the Q gen tips allow the pricker to clear the orfice a turn or two sooner in my experience. Opening the valve a few turns can by finicky when trying to light the lantern.

 

Well I'm back .. Merry Christmas btw!
Cleaned it up pretty nice and it's running...some slight pulsing but I'm going to let it run a bit later for a while to get nice and hot to see if it stops...

 

@Toby Garner Merry Christmas....
Got a question for you...I still have pulsing a little bit. I've taken the whole lantern apart and pricked even the fuel pickup... Built the generator like you mentioned and it works! Just a slight pulsing... Maybe mantles are short?
Compared to my other quick lites... These seem to be higher up?
Same brand of mantles... American mantles on all

 

Looking good!! Merry Christmas. If everything is there and spotless inside the fount I would look into the generator. Did you use brass wool, or something else? I pretty well pack these top to bottom and have great luck with them. A slight pulse when cold is expected, but once good and warm it should be steady.

 

@Toby Garner and the mantle length looks ok? The burner tubes looks original but then I've never seen a slant before this one...

How long until you would say it would be hot enough to not pulse? 15 minutes or so?
I used bronze wool....hmmm... Maybe that's it... Hard to find brass wool... I'll have to look into that one