Tilley X246 old model help to restore

I found a what it seems to be old Tilley from the 50ies. It looks as the one in Terrence Marsh, the model on the left 300cp lantern.
Tilley lanterns
I think it is this because of the way the bail is attached.



The first main issue is the burner which is broken:



Can this be fixed? Or I need a new burner. And what is the correct burner for this lamp?

Another point is that it seems that they have attached a custom pre-heater cup which I do not see in Terrence Marsh photograph:




There is some cotton-looking wick in this cup below the insect shield. Was it like this? Could this contain asbestos? Is this kind of wick needed or it can just be removed and use the preheating cup the same way as in a petromax?

I have not tested it yet for a leak. I have no experience with Tilleys so I will go slowly with the restoration.

By the way can one use camping gas large mantles with Tilleys? They have two holes so could they be used? It is not trivial to find Tilley mantles here this is why I ask.

I found this lamp in yard sale on Samos, Greece.

 

Forgot to say there is no mark on this lamp. No stamp, no scratched. I will also need (at least) a glass. Are the regular (modern) Tilley glasses suitable?

 

The last part on the air intake tubes , the air buttons, can be placed more in or out by turning them. To center the burner inside the hood. However if they are damaged by use or corrosion you should replace them.

The pre heater disc is not original but if it works which I guess, I would leave it in place and use it. The cord is most likely asbestos and you may want to dispose it properly.
I think even without any "filling" the disc will work.

The standard Tilley globe should fit.

 

At least one of the air intake tubes looks damaged. Is there any source for this part and for a glass and mantles within EU? (Because to go through customs takes at least a month in Athens.)

What is proper handling of asbestos?

 

My friend, if you click on the link above you get the hytta website info. They do speak english and ship worldwide (as far as I know).
They may also sell the air tubes. Just ask.
You need at least service pack 2 but I would also order the no. 1 and 3.

Asbestos: well first is well packed in plastic then it all depends on how your local trash disposal works.
Over here I can deliver it to a, let say, a local sorting station where people can drop all kind of rubbish you can't give away with the normal waste collecting system.

 

Have a care ! - the current Service pack 2 is for the burner on the x246B (no threads/rings on the air tubes) - yours is the older burner.
names of things here: What do I call this part?: Tilley
Base-camp do have it "old SP2" Tilley lamp spares

 

Did not notice the link was to hytta.de
Thank you.

 

It took me about two years to deal with this lantern.... Anyway, now I have completely disassemble it and I am ready to put everything back with new seals. Air tubes have been replaced too.

About making the tank shine... how do I do this? I do not think it is brass. It looks like it has some kind of painting because around the pump and around the valve&generator there is a discoloration and one can see the metal below. Can I use a paste like the petromax paste for make it shine?

The SP I got has two tiny gaskets with a hole. Do I put both on the axis of turning valve?

This lantern comes with a (brass!) bug shield below the glass. Do you remove this for the preheat procedure or just leave it in place?

The permanent pre-heater cup (also brass!) was screwed between the valve and the generator. Whouldn't its use affect the health of the gasket between these two? Since it is brass, I was thinking if it would be better to leave it there but above the nut of the generator to avoid the over-heating of the gasket.

 

@Antonis Tsolomitis

Dear Antonis,
what is 2 yrs in the grand scheme of things?

The tank is made of brass but they were originally painted.. yours does look polished from here

the 2 small gaskets can go into the gland cup as you have suggested

you can leave the insect screen on whilst pre heating

i would use discretion regarding the cup.. see what happens ..
it may have functioned well enough like that?
Give it a try and if there are problems then I am sure you can fix it

look forward to seeing it shining again
Best regards
pb

 

Antonis, that style of bug screen was designed to be removed when pre heating and replaced when the lantern is running.

That style of preheater cup is designed to be sandwiched between gaskets. Unless you modify the cup It will leak alcohol if fitted above the nut.
Q. Does the cleaning needle still reach the jet with the cup fitted as shown?

 

"2 yrs in the grand scheme of things" ha ha ha






As it can be seen the tank is shiny up to half way. Then it is dull. I would like to make it shine all the way up.

The preheating cup does not interfere with the nut of the generator and the valve. The nut screws all the way down. it is just wider than the cup hole so the cup does not move from its place. So yes, the needle works as expected. I was just thinking that the place of the cup will bake the gasket of the generator deteriorating it quickly.
Moreover, the preheating cup had some asbestos when I got the lamp which I discarded. So I would use the cup just with alcohol as in a Petromax.

About the cage this looks like painted steel. Most paint is gone but it can be seen in some places. I ordered a gold color paint spray with a 800 C heat resistance (sold for brakes). So I plan to clean the cage with sandpaper and then paint it.

 

I can see a small problem. The insect shield normally slides down the vapouriser, to allow the original clip-on preheater "torch" enough room to be used. Once the lantern is lit, the torch is removed, and the insect shield moved up. With the stove pre-heat cup fixed below the shield, the shield will get in the way of the pre-heat flames. The lantern will work without the shield of course.

My limited experience with stoves (which have this kind of pre-heater cup) is that the gaskets are made of fibre, not rubber. I am guessing there may be a reason for this.

Picture of the moden version of the clip-on torch:

 

@Fireexit1 I originally thought that but have seen pictures of the preheater flames acting as though there was no mesh, hence my suggestion…
@ROBBO55 has spotted that it is a scissor type insect guard so it’s removable

yes originally clamped on a stove



Fibre washers as mentioned

Meths has a habit of creeping out of dishes even with some fibreglass in there to soak it up
It may be possible to adapt/silversolder a sleeve so it sits higher up on the vapouriser or just get the tilley pre heat clamp as you said??

 

Or leave the preheating cup in place for the history of it and do not use it (an use a modern clip-on torch)

How about make the tank shine? Any advice?

 

Spain and Portugal have still no electricity and night is coming. Let the classic pressure lamps work !

 

To be honest, I would remove that spirit dish altogether. It needs to be away from the Viton or rubber seal under the vapouriser.

A Tilley torch will cause much less hassle than that non-confirming dish.


Cheers

Tony

 

Any good metal polish will do. Many people use Autosol.

 

Oh, OK. I can not find autosol here, but I have petromax paste. Thanks.

 

This might be helpful ? https://www.skroutz.gr/c/1915/Aloifes-Katharistika-Aytokinitou.html?keyphrase=metal+polish

 

@Fireexit1 Oh, thank you. Last year I checked there was no autosol (or I missed it). But I have tried glanol for other lamps and it is bad. It produces a lot of black substance and requires a lot of work compared to petromax cream.

 

I am so unlucky with this. I could not find a high heat gold paint in Greece for the cage and I only found in amazon.es. After about 20 days they told me that the package was lost somewhere in the Netherlands
Lets see what is next ...

 

Hi Antonis

that is frustrating and a nuisance.

i had a look at some H.T. gold paint on ebay and it is only resistant to 250/300 degrees.. nowhere near some of the exhaust paints.. i dont think Tilley used special heat paint when making them

maybe use what you can find and see how it lasts??
tbh i worry more about fuel resistant paint.. automotive paint is usually ok as i am sure you are aware

regards
p

 

The one I found, the only gold one, is rated 800 Celsius. It is for brakes. I wait to see how this will be resolved with Amazon. Maybe re-send... We will see... They notified the seller...

 

This is ridiculous: the seller says that the carrier disposed the product as flammable. What is amazon doing? Are they crazy? Their pages says "it ships to Greece". I doubt I will get a refund... And still without the option of a HT gold paint...

 

If it's just the tank that you want to paint then you won't need a HT paint, it's only the hood that gets hot, and IIRC that only gets up to about 300 degrees.

 

No tanks is brass, the hood is enameled and it is reasonably OK. I want to paint the cage and the carrying handle. What is IIRC?

 

If I Remember Correctly

 

Did not know this... IIRC. So the cage does not get that high temperature. So if I get a paint for 300 Celsius for the cage that shout be OK. Maybe I can find such a product here... For example,

PAINT SUPPLIES - Paints - Special paints - GOLD SETTEBELLO 125ML

 

Absolutely correct. I'm amazed that folk haven't got the message by now...

 

@David Shouksmith, they'll soon get the message when they pick up a lantern that's litted...
The bail might get quite warm if it's hanging up, but you can still pick it up if you're careful.