Hello friends, I would like to operate this gas lamp in double sobre. I saw a Petromax disassembled. Now I have to buy one that I bought, but it's a Lilor. I haven't seen any parts disassembled. The keys are stuck and I was told to listen to the scepter so as not to break an asbestos disc. Let's see if it has it, because it seems that some screws are missing. There are four and two are missing. The ones that came with the originals with a nut, and these, without a nut, are stuck to the sheet metal. I can't wait to operate the lamp. I bought the pump, it's longer, but it's a Coleman. I was told it was in good condition. Now I'm going to put back the screws I had. If you can help discover citric acid to clean it, I cleaned the chimney, which was black. I'm posting photos of what I improved. I'm moving very slowly, for fear of breaking something. I'm going to try to translate the page into English, but when I paste it, it turns into Spanish. If I do it in French, it remains unchanged. I'll try again if I don't get it in French, and I've changed several translators. And I have the same problem. Kind regards Send comments Side panels Historical Guardado Bonjour les amis, je voudrais faire fonctionner esta lámpara de esencia en doble sobre. J'ai vu un Petromax demontée. Je dois maintenant en acheter une que j'ai achetée, mais c'est une Lilor. Je n'ai vu aucune pièce démontée. Les clés sont coincées et on m'a dit de faire listening au sceptre pour ne pas casser un disque en amiante. Voyons si elle l'a, car il semble qu'il manque des vis. Il y en a quatre et deux en manquent. Celles fournies avec les originales avec un écrou, et celles-ci, sans écrou, sont collées à la tôle. J'ai hâte de faire fonctionner la lampe. J'ai acheté la pompe, ella est plus longue, mais c'est une Coleman. On m'a dit qu'elle était en bon état. Je vais maintenant remettre les vis que j'avais. Si puede ayudar a descubrir el ácido cítrico para el nettoyer, j'ai nettoyé la cheminée qui était noire. Je mets des fotos de ce que j'ai amélioré. J'avance très lentement, de peur de casser quelque chose. Je vais essayer de traduire la page en anglais, mais lorsque je la colle, elle devient espagnole. Si je la fais en français, elle reste inchangée. Je vais ensayer si je n'y Arrival pas en français, et j'ai changé plusieurs traducteurs. Et le même problème m'arrive. Cordialmente Enviar comentarios Paneles laterales Histórico Guardado
Hello friends, I just disassembled part of the lilor lamp, but I'm really disappointed because I'm missing something under the lilor center cover. I think it was made of asbestos and it's not there. What happens if it doesn't have it? Can something be done or buy one? If they were sold without it, the lamp doesn't work. What a shame! I spent 70 euros on an air pump and now nothing can be done. Please, these people who make everything work, give me a hand. I'm really disappointed because I wanted to see it work. Please help me. I had put so much hope into the project, and what's happening now? I'm out of words to see what can be done. Best regards.
First of all: DON'T PANIC ! Forum language is english and there is no need to post double in other languages. I mentioned an asbestos ring because it was on my lantern. I don't know if all LILOR lanterns have it bat it was between the globe cage and tank, I assume heat protection was its goal. So you're lantern looks complete. But you first off all have to understand its workings. There is no universal "How to dismantle" for all lanterns. Generally, fuel come up due to air pressure, gets vaporised by heat and the gas ignites and the heat let the mantle glow. So first fill your lantern with air pressure and check for leaks. Under water in a bucket like finding a bicycle tire leak. Then check fuel system. Fuel in, air pressure in, no heat, open valve> what happens? Then put it all together, check again and then at the end light, outside with fire department ready. Don't get parts apart which ain't broken.
Hi friend: Thanks for your reply. Before opening it, I saw two screws were missing, so I thought the asbestos piece and the ring would be missing. I bought the lamp a few years ago, and while watching a video explaining how it works, I thought it was funny. I loosened the screw, and it was under pressure. How many years has it been without working? When I opened it, air came out. But I'm worried about the asbestos ring. I wonder if it'll get too hot. By the way, what kind of muffs do you wear? I assume they need a specific size, or what brand?
Hello friends: As I said, I'm concerned about the asbestos piece inside the lamp, but also about the whole thing. The keys were already stuck. I removed the small screw and they were still stuck. The inner piece, which has a sort of point, remained stuck. I turned it over to see if it would fall out and I hit the point, and now it's almost intact, the point is still stuck inside. I don't know if it's for sale, although I've found very few, and I'm not even talking about Lilor lamps. Please, I need help from those handymen who make everything work. I'm three tens of this piece. I'd like to get an old lamp with a pressure gauge working again, which this one didn't have, the model 4500. Hello and please help me. I don't know if I heat the keys to tighten them, but I can't. The keys have plastic where the turn is. The key is black, they say that she went to Congo, seems that she is black.
Hello friends: I couldn't remove the rust from the lid. I used rust remover, but I left it too long and it stayed. The top part is pink. Can I do something to make it look like shiny brass? The piece has a spike that comes out for cleaning. When I tried to remove it, I turned it over to see if it would fall out and I touched the spike. Can that piece be replaced because if not, it won't work and will get stuck? If you could please give me the solution, since I'm eager to see it work. Best regards.
Hi friend, I received the lemon acid cleaner today, but I don't know if it's good for brass, so it doesn't leave it pink like the rust remover I used. It's wonderful for cleaning rust, but not for too long. The lemon acid is only for silver-plated metals. How much do you use per liter? And how long does it have to be inside. You have to keep checking that the rust remover removes it quickly. Best regards.
@santiago blanco perez When brass turns pink, it is because the acid of the cleaner has removed some zinc from the brass and copper is exposed. Use a metal polish (without ammonia) such as Autosol to polish the brass. Use only very, very fine steel wool (if it’s bare brass you are polishing) or a woollen cloth. I don’t know about the strength of your lemon acid cleaner, but if it’s powdered citric acid, 1 teaspoon to 1 litre of water for very dirty brass: check your materials regularly. If it starts to go pink, stop. Cheers Tony
Hello friend: Thank you very much for answering me. You see such golden and shiny lamps that look so pretty. I will try the acid and I will tell you how it is. There are people on the forum who use this acid. By the way, the 4500 model did not have a pressure gauge, but if I have taken mine apart, it is very dirty. I am left with the tank with the pressure gauge and the caps that I will remove. But I did not want to remove the monometer, making sure it does not get wet. I have seen some removed and they have a nut, but mine does not, and it will bother me if I break it. I do not know anything about the pressure gauge. I do not know if it has to be half full when the gauge shows and it would be more dangerous, I say it would be turning off and varying the pressure. I will buy that polish you told me about. Thank you very much. If you can help me, I would appreciate it. Kind regards, I'm sending you a photo where you can see the tank. By the way, the keys to open it are stuck, very dirty. Above the key, there is a rope with a pick. You remove it and there is a piece with a more pronounced pick. To remove it, I put it upside down and I messed up the pick. Can this piece be found?
This is an old and more or less rare lantern. So parts are not available. All parts are rare and once broken you have to repair them or you have a nice lantern for on the shelf > shelf queen.
Hi friend, I had to heat the part to remove the fuel dipstick. The one I can't do is the one with the needle. It goes up and down, but I don't want to break it, and I'm scared. I'm twisting and pulling gently, but I don't know if I must be doing something wrong. Can you tell me where the problem is? Regards
I've found Primus brand needles that won't fit a Lilor 4500 model. What can I do if it doesn't have the needle? If anyone has one, I'll buy it, or can the one you have be refurbished? Regards
Hi friend, the asbestos disc is missing, but the worst thing is that I've broken the carburetor needle. I don't know if it can be fixed. While searching, I found a Primus model 991 that won't work, and I don't know if its needle can be fixed. I was able to remove the gas regulating rod, but I can't remove the other rod that raises the needle. The gas rod, the heating tube, is stuck. Can you tell me if the needle can be fixed? Best regards and thanks.
Yes I can tell you: the needle can't be fixed. I am not sure what you mean by fuel dip stick. Please read a lot on this forum to get familiar with how lanterns work. Basic principle is the same for all lanterns.
Hello friend: You cannot give the needle a minimum solder and without the needle the lamp does not work. I found the needle for the Premus model 991 lamp. This needle is not suitable for Lilor. What year did Lilor close? Then I removed the rod, the part that gives gas, but the one that goes up and down the needle. I cannot remove it. You have left me sad. I have been looking for information for years, I found it and now I break the needle. I am very upset. A cordial greeting
@santiago blanco perez Can you please provide a photograph of the broken needle; and also “…the rod, the part that gives gas, but the one that goes up and down the needle”. There are very skilled people on this forum who can give you advice, and photographs of your troubles will help very much. Don’t be sad: just be steady and patient. Tony
Hello friend; Thank you very much for your advice but the problem is the key that gives gas is removed but the key that makes the needle go up and down I can't remove it now I'm afraid of breaking it and I keep turning and pulling it out at the same time as turning but it won't get greased and I tell you I have put in very good Singer sewing machine oil that keeps the parts clean but I can't get it out now it works very well it goes smoothly but I don't know how to get the part out I don't know if you have taken it out I confuse myself turning it but I can't get anything and on top of that I'm even more afraid of damaging the part I don't know how to do it if you can give me some advice friend I'll see if I continue and I'll tell you if I can do it but it looks like the photos above the needle bar is missing to be removed Best regards
You have to soak the fiber that seals it and extract it little by little. This is what blocks the lever. This operation can take weeks, you really have to be very patient.....
Hi friend, you're telling me that you have to soak the fiber that surrounds it, what do you mean, the fiber where the needle goes in the center? I've put oil on it to lubricate it and it's going well. I'm turning it little by little and pulling at the same time, little by little, but I don't know at what point I should pull where the piece is straight to pull. I'm turning millimeter by millimeter. You say that sometimes it takes weeks, with me, I try years and leave it so as not to get blocked, but I'm looking forward to seeing it out and there's no way. I have patience for things I see, not how I turn it, and I don't know at what point I should pull stubbornly, no one can beat me until I get it. Greetings and thanks, I'll relax, it's true that nothing good is achieved by brute force if you break it.
Best is to ask and translate one question at the time. Now (I guess) more then one question and answer are making it confusing. 1) there is the needle. This is screwed into a small extender block which is operated by the upper rod/axle with the small nose. 2) there is the main valve, lower rod/axle, which has a point which seals fuel off. Design problem is the steel rods do rust. By doing this they get completely stuck into the brass housing. Only solution is heating the brass housing up cooling down, again, again again, until the rust breaks. Off coarse all has to be done carefully.
Hi friend: Do you mean that I heated the needle? I already heated it since I washed it and it opened and closed. It was stuck. After heating it, the needle goes up and down very smoothly, but the rod doesn't come out. I rest it. You said that I should heat it a lot, otherwise the needle will get damaged. Best regards.
