So It was time I had to go dig in to replace a leaking foot valve that sometimes causes a flame up erupting from the vent while I'm pumping up and operating the rapid torch. I had some spare current production pips laying around but found out that the current replacements are completely incompatible, for one it's too long that it causes the conducting rod and eccentric to bind up attempting to turn the valve and I felt "crunching and scraping" so I didn't force the valve further when trying to cycle. It's also a different shape too, the original pip holder with the petrified rubber is hexagonal in shape and I cannot find any era correct part. I read somewhere from a member on palem.de suggested I pry the new rubber out from the current production pips and transplant it to the hex shaped holder but these current production pips are way too oversized to fit inside the holder as the new holder is wider than the old. These are the ring style pip with the conical brass landing in the center. Is there any replacement viton washers I can source that's already presized and punched? Perhaps a correct tool and measurement of the original pip I can use to make one myself from a sheet of viton. Measurement numbers and the tool that can make the exact size would help.
The current production footvalve parts aren't the same as those made in the 1960s. I would believe yours would appear like these:- My Petromax from 1961 has a footvalve similar to the ones shown above. I had the same problem many years ago with it not sealing. If I'm not wrong, these older parts wouldn't be available anymore. At least, they would certainly be very challenging to find any. Replacing the petrified 'rubber' pip can be a little fiddly due to the centre brass 'stub'. You need to first bore a hole through the new elastomeric material(viton, buna-n, etc). The old rubber needs to be eased from its hexagonal holder. It can also be burnt-out like what you might do to remove hardened seals from the filler caps of old Coleman lanterns. Some members had already done this with success. On mine, instead of replacing the hardened rubber, I had replaced the old compression spring with one that was considerably stiffer/stronger. This managed to get the pip to seal. An alternative might be just replace the entire footvalve plus its tube with a new-manufactured item instead of just the holder/pip. The new internals aren't the same and tend to result in the problems you mentioned. In my vague memory, I had made new pips from a variety of materials using either a 3/16" or a 5mm hole punch. Viton can often be a little too hard especially for old weakened springs. I often use natural cork intead.
@MYN You mention current production completed foot valve assembly are compatible with my 1960's valve body? I wouldn't mind going that route if it can restore functionality. I was looking at a replacement foot valve assembly from this site: https://britelyt.com/product/foot-valve-complete/
If I remember correctly, they are. However, its still better to seek a second opinion about that first. Its been awhile since the last time I worked with those.
@Dashwood I make these out of 3mm Viton sheet. Just punch approx. 5mm seal and made a hole in it. I make that hole with a sewing needle at the beginning - "the hole" is almost not visible, but at least you can fit something bigger there later. After that I use some smallest drills and hand drill a bit bigger hole. After that I use some Dremmel syle mini files assembled in hand drill and enlarge that hole step by step - just insert tiny round file inside the hole, keep and squeeze it in your fingers while rotating the file. Sooner or later using bigger and bigger files (or squeezing that Viton harder and harder) that hole will be big enough to fit inside that footvalve pip with that "brass stud" inside. It takes half and hour or longer to make one, but can be finally done and works just fine. It does not matter if holder is hexagonal or not from outside. all the best, Piotrek
The Chinese repros worked fine, it's just a matter of using the correct spring as the old ones was longer to accommodate the older hex style foot valve. Swapping to the modern spring which was shorter resolved the binding issue when using the new style foot valve. For now I have tossed the older style spring and foot valve into my parts bag for when I'm bothered enough to revisit.
