Hi Everyone I am asking for some advice regarding my Hipolito. I have had it for a number of years now after buying it brand new back in the late 80`s and had brilliant use out of it. It was always reliable but due to me getting married and having to renovate an old house togehter with having children, my fishing hobby and subsequent use of the Hipolito had to be put aside for 15 years until now! In getting it out of the box after all this time it has deteriorated slightly, but I tried firing it up and there is nothing but flames coming out of the top. I took it apart and saw the paraffin squrting out of the top, which I thougth was a good sign, but it somehow does not appear to be going down to the mantle. Could you advise me on what to do, and any tips on cleaning it/servicing it please? Regards
I forgot to mention that, the plunger is working fine but the pressure gauge isnt with it not registering any sign in pressure increase. Is there anything I can do to get this working again without buying a new one as they are so expensive. Regards
Given that a Hipolito is just a variation on a P'max, I'll take a stab at this. I'm thinking it just hasn't gotten hot enough with the pre-heat. I'm thinking that I would gently disassemble the upper vapouriser section and make sure that it's clean, and then look at the J-tube section to make sure you don't have any obstructions. It's amazing what a simple cleaning/inspection can do for a cranky piece of equipment!
For a lamp that has been in storage for a long time I would suggest emptying the tank and rinsing out with fresh fuel in case there is rubbish in the tank. Then with no fuel in the tank you can do a pressure test. Close the air bleed screw by the manomenter, have the control wheel in the 12 o'clock position (closed) and operate the pump. See if you can build up pressure. This takes quite a few strokes with an empty tank. If the pump (and non return valve at the bottom of the pump tube) are working properly you should hear air entering the tank. Remember, the manometer could be faulty so check if pressure is building by opening the control valve and listening for a hiss of air or by loosening the air bleed screw. If no pressure is building check the pump leather. If this is dried out it won't work so lubricate it generously with light oil or vaseline and work this in to help the leather swell to make a good seal. You can also gently push the leather out so that it makes a snug fit in the tube. If the pump works and air is entering the tank then there is a leak somewhere. There are several places this could be. As seals deteriorate over time you will need to check the likely culprits. First check the seal on the manometer, then check air is not leaking from the rapid starter. There is also a possibility that the non-return valve at the bottom of the pump tube is faulty. This valve allows air in when you pump but prevents fuel from flowing back. It can stick open or shut or it can open satisfactorily but fail to prevent back flow. A little bit of 3 in 1 or similar down the pump tube may free it. Next check the nipple at the top of the vapouriser tube. The cleaning needle should stick out a little when the control wheel is turned to the up position. Check the nipple is tight on the vapouriser tube. If loose it will leak and there will be flames. Check there are no spider's webs in the J tube. Give it a good blow out. Finally, make sure you pre-heat sufficiently. This is easiest with meths in the preheater dish (in my opinion). There are other things that could be wrong but check these things first and let us know how you get on.
One thing I didn't mention is that the vapouriser/generator foot valve can often deteriorate and stop working. This valve shuts off the flow of fuel when the control wheel is in the up position (the cleaning needle doesn't shut off the fuel supply, this is done further down at the foot valve). If this valve leaks then fuel will leak out of the nipple when you are trying to pressurise and use the rapid preheater even when the control valve is in the shut position. You could still use meths to preheat and then just use the pump when it is hot enough to light but you would not be able to use the preheater to light the lamp. All of the parts are easily available and replacing them is part of routine maintenance. There are various good guides to full overhaul of Petromax lamps (and the many clones) and parts diagrams are available on www.pelam.de as well as other websites. PS the shipping costs from Pelam are high to the UK so check for local suppliers if you need parts.
Many thanks for your replies and advice. I will check the parts you have mentioned. I have decided to purchase the service kit. The lantern is pressurising fine with the push pump working well. Am disspapointed the little pressure gauge is not working as this gives you a general guide when its need of a good pump. They seem really expensive for what they are. Someone has just told me to pump her up and leave her like this overnight as it may get the gauge to work? What I also noticed is that the paraffin is coming out and over the loop that the j tube fits in. You can see the praffin alight around the tube itself. Any suggestions whats causing this? The paraffin itself is squirting well up and out of the vapourising tube. It shoots up about 9 to 1o inches. Seem to think the problem is between the top of the vapourising tube and the mantle?? Any advice woudl be appreciated. I feelreally saddened gto see it operating so poorly as it was always reliabel and gave an excellent light. I take it with a little care and attention, it can bee back to how she used to be?? Again any advice woudl be welcomed. regards
I don't know if the manometer will start to work if the lamp is left pressurised. Yes they are €15 or so for a new one but it is a good lamp so worth the money I would have thought. The paraffin will squirt all over the place when it is liquid. When the lamp is properly preheated, it is vapour (gas) that will emerge from the jet. This jet of gas mixes with air and an air/gas mixture burns at the ceramic burner. This part of the lamp is so simple that it can only really be a blockage that could cause a problem. Just check the J tube isn't blocked. Also check that the ceramic burner isn't loose (they also crack sometimes). Pic of the top parts: http://www.pelam.de/index.php?cPath=30_51_90 http://light.papo-art.com/tech-n-info/Petromax_technical/restore_pmax_rebuild.html#Chapter_8_-_Assembly_of_complete_inner Lighting Instructions: http://www.petromax.de/website/anleitung/Petromax_HK500_United_Kingdom.pdf I think you just need to preheat properly and try to light it. A properly preheated lamp will not be squirting liquid paraffin from the jet. Meths is easier than the rapid preheater but that's up to you.
Picked up a coleman 242B (Kero) last weekend they have two air tubes 1 was blocked, cast manifold, mesh screen also (mud wasp nests) mantle was still intact, glass and top of lamp black with soot would have been quite a flare up. Have you checked your air/mixer tubes for foriegn bodies isects etc
Svenedin That site for restoring a Petromax was great... Many thanks. This has led me to be concerned for the vapourising tube as yesterday I disassembeled it and have out it back not realising the importance of how accurate this has to be set. The site shows the use of a petromax gauge for correct stetting. As I havent got one of thse, do you knwo what the precise measurement for the tube should be? Many thanks for everyone else who has replied. This site is marvellous. I really thought my Hipolito was doomed and had no hope. But thanks to this site, I am confident it can be restored. Any tips for cleaning and polishing the metal. I have used wire wool which does reduce the slight oxidation and has made it quite smooth, but if you have any other tips to make it look pristine again it would be appreciated. Thanks again to CPL and those who have given advice. Regards
Glad the links were useful and credit to Jan Moeller who wrote the excellent guide to overhauling a Petromax. I believe the gap between the jet and the top of the J tube should be 14.2 mm for a 500 candle power lantern. When you measure that gap make sure the handwheel is down so you don't damage the needle in the jet. I'd suggest you cut a piece of card to the right size and use that as gap setting tool. I'd use a metal polish suitable for chrome. Don't use anything too abrasive or you could go right down to the brass underneath. Simichrome or Autosol are very good. Yes, your lamp will shine again!
http://light.papo-art.com/tech-n-info/Petromax_ technical/res... This site is of Doron Papo. A member here...
Hi Wimve I have tried to log on to the site you recommend, but it shows expired. Any advice on how to access it? Regards
