Just completed my first major fettle of a Coleman North Star (Model 2000) and noticed the following things. A Peerless mantle is far superior to the Coleman InstaClip, even though it does not secure to the lower mantle support. The electronic ignition is not as bad as I thought it was going to be, it works most times, but I always have a long match ready! I also found that it did not really like Aspen 4, why I cannot work out, but after several trial runs with both fuels, I concluded that it much prefers ordinary automobile unleaded gasoline. I was not at all sure about that Shreader type check valve, Scary! Overall I am not very impressed; it's not a classic in my opinion. Just ducking down below the firing line now to avoid the expected Coleman lover's incoming artillary. Had fun getting it going though. Steve
Hello Steve, I was not impressed by the Coleman North Star either. It's the old lamps which interest me, Jeff.
Hi Wim, I only bought it to see how they fit together. Cost me a whole £5.00! Anyway, I am lighting it every evening at the moment to see how it grows on me, and how reliable it is. If I have still got it next time we meet, you can have it for spares for the Missus. Take care friend - Steve.
Wim, THIS IS OFFICIAL My NorthStar is donated to spares for your good lady's lamp. I shall take it to Newark for her. In my opinion this particular model is the worst piece of USA pressure lamp engineering that exists. I have tried now for several weeks to get it running correctly and have now given up. The generator with the two coiled springs is just a nightmare, even when running it on Aspen 4 it clogs-up very quickly. It is yours my friend, with a new globe. Another lesson learnt! Buy European. Steve.
Sorry to hear you didn't like your Northstar. I've got 2 of them and they've worked well for years both on unleaded and Aspen 4T. I did have a major fettle of one of them recently and I had to swap out the tank because it was full of rust. This had caused it to misbehave badly. If your lamp is behaving erratically and you know the generator is good it may be worth checking the fuel filter. You have to unscrew the control valve assembly from the fount and the fuel filter is a plastic thing beneath. There is a tiny hole at the bottom that can block and can be unblocked with a pricker. PS As you are not using the Coleman Tubular mantle (which I always have), might this be affecting how hot (or not) your generator is getting?
Thanks Svenedin, I will try the filter and see if that makes a difference. I find the connecting of the valve eye to the cleaning needle very difficult to do, but had it apart som many times now that I am getting better at it! Steve.
OK Steve. The plastic fuel filter also unscrews from the valve tail. When you unscrew it there is a little pip and spring (from memory, I nearly lost it). This could conceivably stick and affect fuel flow as well as a blocked hole at the bottom of the filter. Yes that hook and eye thing is a bit awkward. I can't quite recall how I did it but it wasn't difficult once I worked it out. I think I turned the tap so that the eye was in the "up" position, pulled the hook out a little so it was easy to put on the eye and then turned the tap to the down position before tightening up the nut. Something like that anyway! I haven't found that the gens clog badly even though, as you say, they look like they will. A very filthy and coked up one of mine was still working after 10 years. Another thing is that you need to have the silver burner assembly off (or at least loose) to replace the gen or the gen won't go into the hole in the mixing tube hole properly or get bent. I'm sure you did that anyway so not trying to teach you to suck eggs! I do think that the Coleman tube mantles must be important as well. They glow all the way down to the bottom mantle support so they must help keep the gen hot. Although not your cup of tea perhaps, these lamps are very bright indeed when working well. I wrote a long reply to someone on another thread about the electronic ignition which I'll copy here if you want it. It's just a matter of checking a few things and is straightforward. I've got lanterns by Tilley, Petromax, Vapalux etc and despite this I still like the Northstar. The only thing I don't really like is the steel tank which rusts. People complain about the electronic ignition but it's more reliable than fiddling with a match or lighter in a gale and it's rather important that a petrol lantern lights quickly or the result can be "whoomph" which is a bit alarming. Best Wishes, Stephen
Here are some tips about the electronic ignition that I wrote on another thread: The thread is here: http://0flo.com/index.php?threads/3883 Just a few ideas on the electronic igniter on this lamp. People mentioned that others have had problems with them. I have recently had a Northstar completely stripped down so I thought I would share some tips. The lamp uses a principle found on many electronic igniters. A high voltage is produced from the battery in the black slot-in module which is discharged as a spark at the tip of the igniter probe near the bottom of the mantle. Problems are not necessarily confined to the module itself. So it is sensible to check systematically. WARNING: The module produces a high voltage which can lead to a shock. Do not take the module apart and do not work on the igniter with the module installed. 1) Check the battery. If in any doubt install a fresh battery. 2) When installing the battery respect the correct polarity. Check the battery makes a good contact at both ends. If a battery has leaked clean away the debris and ensure the battery contacts are clean and bright. Battery fluids are corrosive so do not leave them. Do not get the equipment wet and do not use solvents that could attack the plastic. A slightly damp cloth will suffice. Contacts can be brightened using emery paper. If the battery is loose in its compartment one or both contacts can be gently extended to make a snug fit. 3) As you slide the module back in check the spring clip at the top makes a firm engagement. If it does not you can gently bend the spring clip up to make a better fit. 4) On the right hand side of the module at the top there is a metal tab that makes contact with the bottom of the igniter probe. This must make a good contact or the system will not work even if there is nothing wrong with the module. Gently bend the tab up if it is not making a good contact and ensure the metal contact surface is clean and bright.You can also clean the bottom contact of the igniter probe which can be seen inside the slot in the lamp (at the top of the slot on the right hand side) 5) If you are still having problems you will need to check the igniter probe. Don't do this unless you have a spare mantle as you will almost certainly break the mantle. Take the handle, hood, glass and glass frame off the lamp as if you were changing a mantle. You will see the igniter probe near the bottom of the mantle. Examine the probe for damage. If the ceramic insulation is cracked then electricity will leak to earth near the crack and the probe must be replaced. Clean any dirt or debris away from the probe. Check the gap between the metal tip of the igniter and the bottom mantle support post. This is rather like adjusting the gap on a spark plug from a motor car. If the gap is too large, the voltage required to spark across the gap is too much and the sparks (if any) will be slow. If the gap is too small then the sparks produced will be too tiny or if the metal parts are touching, no spark will be produced at all. Adjust the gap by gently bending the metal part of the igniter tip (this is an inverted U shape) towards or away from the bottom mantle carrier. In other words, you are slightly opening or closing that inverted U, NOT bending the whole probe. DO NOT stress the ceramic part of the igniter or it will crack. You MUST support the igniter whilst you bend the tip. 6) If none of the above works, replace the igniter module. Hope this helps. Best Wishes, Stephen
Hi Stephen, Had the whole thing in bits again today, and even though I have cleaned the generator each time I take it apart, there is always a bit of sticky oily gunge two-thirds up the generator coils. I have flushed the tank, made sure the filter and the little fuel-hole are clear and the little plastic spacer sort of thing is in place. Checked by sucking on the jet that it shuts off and opens when the control cock is turned. Fired it up and at the moment (after 40 mins) it is still running OK. I am burning new clean Aspen 4. Is it normal to have to pump up the pressure every 20 minutes or so? I will keep it going for another hour and see what tomorrow brings. Thanks for all your advice - Steve.
Hi Steve, I am sorry you are having so many problems with your North Star. They are without a doubt some of the brightest if not the brightest lantern Coleman ever came out with. I have two of them, one a propane the other white gas & both run without a hitch & have for years. Maybe you have a defective one or perhaps the generator has been clogged with auto fuel use?
Hello Steve. Needing to pump every 20 minutes or so seems a bit excessive. I tend to pump mine up really quite a lot (until it roars). I've never actually timed it but I don't think I need to pump quite that often. Perhaps every 40 minutes to an hour. However, I don't always run it at full throttle as it is so bright I often turn it down. It is normal to need to pump more often than with a paraffin pressure lantern. As to the gunge you find in the gen, again I haven't taken mine apart frequently enough to notice this but it may be an indication that it isn't getting hot enough. My suspicion is that the tubular mantle ensures the gen gets hot further down. Having said that, other Coleman lanterns use standard shaped mantles but I don't know if the gens differ. Was it a new gen on this lamp? I did not have success cleaning my old one and replaced it but it had lasted years. It had hard black coke baked on to the spiral spring. It isn't a cheap part but neither are Vapalux or Tilley vapourisers and I believe I read somewhere (probably here) that Tilley only give their vapouriser a 500 hour life expectancy.
This picture illustrates how the Northstar should be From left to right: 1) Petromax Clone (Anchor) 150cp 2) Vapalux M320 3) Coleman Powerhouse 2 Mantle 4) Coleman Northstar Both Colemans running on Aspen 4T. As you can see, the Northstar is very bright indeed. PS: If any of you are gardeners yes that is a lemon tree in the background. It's in a pot and I bring it into the greenhouse in the winter.
Hi Stephen, Well it is still running! Not flickering so much and very bright when really pumped up, but needs more pumping than a kero lamp. Maybe just the shock of a tank flush and having its little filter-hole poked! was enough to frighten it into life. It will now get the nightly test for a couple of weeks to see if it is going to be a reliable lamp; I hope that it is, then I won't have to give it to Wim for spares! Thanks again mate - Steve.
I've had flirtations with this lamp on and off for years Steve. I love it's brightness but it can be a PITA to get going. I tend to cheat a bit. Before starting I will squirt a little meths into the base of the lamp at the generator bottom then light it. I try to get a burn time of 1-2 mins then start the lamp and no trouble. Si
I can only add that I have never tried a non Coleman tube mantle on this lantern. I don't need to repump mine except for maybe once an hour if that & like Stephen said its so bright mostly I run it at 50-75% brightness at everyones request. I have been told it doesn't feel like camping when its that bright.
