External pump valve?

OK, here comes another in a long line of stoopit questions. How does one operate these valves and make sure they function correctly? Or maybe the better question would be where do I find operating/repair instructions?

Thanks

 

Also forgot to ask, what (easily available & cheap) inner globe are most using for this type of holder?

 

That Coleman valve is very simple, it's a ball bearing valve which has a check screw.

There is also a lead washer which makes the seal between the valve and the tank aperture.

Close the shut off valve on the burner system.

Then take an adjustable spanner and tighten the filler cap / pressure valve into the aperture.

Then unscrew the check screw a few turns.

Then put the nipple which is on the end of the pump into the recess in the check screw and then pump some air into the tank.

When you have finished pumping, tighten the check screw.

I pump lamps once per hour when they are lit.

Inner globes are usually only used in conjunction with an outer parchment shade.

Coleman glass shades are often listed on Ebay, or you could try antique and junk shops and boot sales etcetera, Jeff.

 

Thanks, that's kinda what I was getting from my few moments looking at it when it arrived yesterday. (now if the pump would just hurry up! )

 

What inner globe are most using with a parchment shade?

 

The type which is shown via the link below, you will have to scroll down the page to see them, Jeff.

http://0flo.com/index.php?threads/3974

 

I thought those with the large opening were somewhat rare. Are they replacements for the 355? (and is the 355 easily available?)
Again, I really appreciate the help. (and your patience with my ignorance)

P.S. Maybe this would work?

http://www.oldcolemanparts.com/product.php?productid=2199&cat=32&page=9

 

The QuickLite table lamp you have just takes a 10" glass shade. The typical shade holder on these lamps is the 3-prong one. Have a look HERE for several shade types.
Table lamps with smaller fonts (just as a first hint, mostly the painted ones) use a 4-prong inner globe holder. A #355 protection globe goes on that holder. A parchment shade is added and slides with a decorated finial on the short post on top of the lamp. Examples are further down on the same page.
Good luck, Erwin.

EDIT: I've attached pictures of a globe and finial.

 

Hi Aephilli,

here are some instructions for your lamp;

http://coleman.pressure-lanterns-il.com/OldDirtyColemanPaper/ColemanQuickliteLampInstructions.pdf

For trouble free use the insides of the fount tank, fuel pickup line, fuel control and burner assembly need to be cleaned to like new and the tank and fuel control pressure tested for leaks. One speck of rust or carbon can plug your new R55 fuel generator.

Another option for mantle / shade protection is a mica lamp globe, which will hang off the three arms of the parchment shade, there's a picture of the correct mica globe in the reference gallery. You can buy a mica globe from Fred Kuntz at

fredkuntz @ adelphia . net

Here's a thread about what Fred does;

http://colemancollectorsforum.websitetoolbox.com/post/Fred-Kuntz-5982075

The Dietz globe from OldColemanParts won't work as it's not long enough to cover the mantles and will allow heat buildup against a parchment shade. I often see Coleman parchment shades here with scorch marks and burns.

You can also buy the #355 glass globe online but will need a different globe hanger like the one in Erwin's photo, the hanger that you have is for a 10" glass shade.

cheers, Ken

 

Here's the link to the Leacock Coleman #355 globe replacement, part number 132-355.

http://www.leacockcolemancenter.com/store/searchbasic?searchtext=132-355

As the #355 globes are getting expensive I've taken to saving those for display and using Coleman NorthStar globes which are often under $10 on sale. The NS globe will work with the hanger that you have if careful with installation.

 

Thanks for all the help.
(now I hate you guys -- less for getting me hooked in the first place)

 

That is great info!

Thanks tons.

 

Looking at that sheet of instructions brings another stoopit question (or two). It shows the fuel pickup going straight to the bottom of the fount. On the wall lamps (BQ?), I'm guessing that the tube goes to the "corner" of the fount that is the bottom when hanging. Also I'm thinking these lamps have a plain tube, no vapor holes or anything for instant light like the newer lanterns. (can you see where I'm going with this? )

 

Easy enough to replicate a BQ given that they use the same fount as the CQ, but original BQ's are fairly common and usually reasonably priced. Might be some interesting reading for you in these early catalogs;

http://internationalcolemancollectors.com/ocp-catalogs/ocp-catalogs.html

 

They are not the same. The fuel pick-up is different. See enclosed picture.

???If you find some cheap ones pls. let me know. I'm very interested.

 

Thanks Flygt!!!

(excellent way to shut 'im up, give 'im sumtin' to read.)

[yes, please let me also know where the reasonably priced ones are]

 

WOO HOO!!! It works!! Rinsed 'er out with alcohol, rinsed that out with CF, put on some coleman mantles, finally figured out it needs enough pressure to work right, and man that thing is BRIGHT!!

P.S. anybody have a figure for how many PSI is safe to pressure test for leaks? (was EXTREMELY scared using air compressor 'cause I couldn't wait for my pump to arrive)

P.P.S. HUGE thanks to all who helped and advised.

 

and one more plea for indulgence - anybody have any hints, tips, or tricks for disassembly and full cleaning?

 

Coleman founts were claimed to be good to 200 psi, your lamp should run great at 1/8th of that, 25 - 35 psi. More consumer safety orientated lamp companies such as Petromax included fount pressure gauges. Nice to see a few photos of your lit lamp.

 

Promise of pics to come (pics or it didn't happen). After the holiday frenzy here dies down, gonna get a proper shade or shade & globe setup. Thanks for the info on fount pressure, I was scared to death that if I ran it up to 100 PSI I'd ruin it.

 

Basic 1960's carburetor cleaning, don't lose parts. Ultrasonic bath works.

 

It's alive!



and here's one using the pricker to dim it a bit (that is OK to do, right, no damage caused?)



Again, a HUGE thanks to all who helped by patiently sharing their knowledge.

 

Another good old CQ., back in use, excellent!

 

The pricker is not a regulator. Using it to reduce light will eventually destroy the needle and damage the jet. Regulator valves are not common until much later and up to around the late 1960s virtually unknown. You certainly can't regulate a CQ. If you want less light then use less pressure. With a lamp of this type, which uses gasoline and has no pressure release, this means you have to start with low pressure as you can't dim the light by releasing pressure. ::Neil::

 

For the inside of the tank: POR-15 Marine Clean

You would not believe the crud that comes out of a seemingly clean tank.

Dan

 

I thought I had seen that somewhere. Will have to refrain from doing it too much.

Thanks again for all the help

 

And another thanks to Flyght for the info on the northstar globe. Thanks to him I was able to get a globe and a fabric shade locally.



P.S. The wife says it's "pretty, but too loud".

P.P.S. The little birdies may not be too happy with us, eh?

 

How many times have I heard that.

 

Good work getting that one running Aephilli, a 1920's Coleman QL327 lantern which uses the same size mantles, generator and pump would make a nice set. A short soak in East-Off oven cleaner will keep the burners sparkling.

 

Not a lot of work on my part, mainly rinsed out the tank and checked it out per the info given here, and she fired right up!
Hardest part was getting the brass stop collar on the control valve stem back into the valve body after tearing it down to "clean". (might have actually polished it down too small, but no leaks, so maybe OK)

Thanks again for all the help