Can anyone recommend an inexpensive measuring device (thermocouple) to measure temperatures up to about 1300C? It needs to have a probe that can be inserted into flames. Or anyone got one that they do not need now? Thanks - Steve.
Hi Steve, I don't think you'll find a probe that can withstand that much heat! As far as I know, such high temps are measured by "optical reading" of the colour of the heated material. I think I have such a device in my garage, found it at an old iron casting shop (and saved it from being thrown away )but don't know exactly how it works. That is, if it still works! Best regards, Wim
Hi Steve Do you have a temperature reading multimeter ? If you do, I can send you a 'k type' thermocouple, which allegedly reads up to 1300 degrees C . I use them to measure exhaust gas temperatures on miniature gas turbines successfully, though I havnt yet exceeded 900 degrees C however, the spec states 1300 degrees C drop me a PT if you like
Thanks Ray, Ray and I are now in PT contact and may have a solution lined up. Thought that I ought to explain that the need for the device is related to my hood cap enamelling project. I will report all data as and when I discover it. Steve.
Presscall over at CCS has some work gizmo that measures temperature using infra-red. He's used it to measure the temperature of various stove burners and posted the results over there. In this thread Thermal imaging of stove firings I suggested he might like to measure the temperature of various pressure lamp hoods but received no response to that proposal. Perhaps you might like to suggest it again with maybe more success this time...
I remember that post David. It was a high-tech heat seeking camera that he used. I will discuss it with him. Thanks - Steve.
Maplin do a probe thermometer for £20 but it only goes to 1000 degrees C. I have this model and it's not too bad for a cheap tool. I would say it maybe out by a degree or two as boiling water has to be a really fierce rolling boil to achieve 100/212 degrees? Steve
The temperature of boiling water isn't always 100 degrees Celsius. It's directly proportional to atmospheric pressure so it varies constantly. Thus your thermometer may well be accurate...
I have to say I wouldn't reliably trust a Chrom-Al Type K Thermocouple over 1200C for any length of time, its on its upper limit at that stage. If you can find a Plat/Rhod type S it would be far more stable at those temperatures, the best of them top out at approx 1600C, but that really is on the hairy edge, cheaper ones top out approx 1400C. Snag is S-type can be pricey, but you're only after a foot or so...... Have fun! Alec.
All Steve is wanting to know (but I'm guessing here) is the running temperature of a pressure lamp hood/ventilator. That's something I've long wondered myself but never found out. It's certainly higher than the melting point of plumbers solder and less than the melting point of brass, but beyond that I've no real idea - my guess would be around 600-700 degrees Celsius...
I guessed that David, but on the basis of his first post and the subsequent mention of the Type K, I am offering my experienced advice. Next time my PL53 is running I'll measure the temp of the hood for fun. I have the chromed brass type. I shall use a calibrated probe. Alec.
I will also have a go tomorrow a measuring the hood temp on one of my Vapalux 320's or the 300X. I'll have a guess at 550 deg C? Steve.
Hi Steve, It would be great if you could take some temperatures for me. I am particularly interested in the max temp that the Bialaddin 300X hood reaches after a good heat soak. If you can do that for me it would save me buying an instrument that I probably would never use again. It would be interesting to know what the other lamp hoods get to as well. All the best - Steve.
Just done a heat test on the M320 and results as follows in degrees C... Top of hood, hottest nearer rim 160 Side of hood in line with air intakes 240 Flush with vent 435 Inside hood on top of mixing dome 496 Inside hood side of mixing dome 563 Touching a happy mantle 832 Will do the 300 X although my one doesn't burn as bright as my 320's at the moment. Steve.
Can't edit previous post but I got the first figure wrong. It actually was 260 degrees c!! I measured my 300X and got the following figures using a V42 mantle... Hottest part of hood cap, outer edge 259 Under the rim of hood cap 269 Flush with brass vent holes 274 Inside on top of mixing dome 520 Inside side of mixing dome 630 Could not reach mantle Pic of lamps used to see brightness levels, both pumped total of 50 times... Will re-do measurements to make sure and try and get the 300 X to burn brighter. Steve.
Great data Steve Looks as though I was well out with my ball-park estimate When you have finished testing, average the results at the same test points out and that will be useful data for future projects. Are you going to try a tilley or two as well? Thanks buddy - Steve.
Some hoods are made of aluminum and that melts at around 660C. That suggests to me that in general a hood only gets to around 400c ish. ::Neil::
I swapped the vap tubes and burner/mixing domes between both lamps and yes the one originally on the 300X was faulty. With the Happy mantle now installed in the 300X and burning well I have some new stats.. Probe rested on centre of top of hood 269 Probe rested on rim of hood 291 Probe rested in junction between hood and brass top of lamp 398! Probe resting on mixing dome 537 Probe stuck just inside vent holes 633 I am wondering if a standard V42 mantle burning properly will give different results over the happy mantle in the 300X? May try that tomorrow if no work? Seems like the top of the hoods are hovering just below 300 degrees C on the outside surfaces and maybe add another 100 degrees C for the underside surfaces? Would love to hear if someone else has the same sort of results to verify mine? Interesting day had 8) Steve, I only have Vapalux/Bialaddin stuff at the moment. Will be on the lookout for a nice X246 at some point though? Steve.
I will PT you about a 1949-54 Tilley Guardsman when I get back from Durham Steve. Got one, not exceptional but a lovely working lamp. Steve. PS If I forget, give me a PT early Feb.
Looks like if the vitreous enamelling can withstand about 700 degrees, Steve, it should be OK. IIRC, glass melts about 1200 degrees Celsius so I think it will be fine...
Yes it is looking feasible so far David. Thanks Steve for your test results so far. I now await the test samples of enamel on brass to arrive. The crux is going to be whether the bond between the enamel and the brass holds up when repeatably heated and cooled. Watch this space! Steve.
