Ah yes, the Veritas Superb - obviously a name coined before the Trades Descriptions Act came into force. Best of luck, mate...
Too true they look great but are a nightmare to get working well , my one has been relegated to the "projects on hold" area until i can make a new vapouriser for it Stu
Great find and I hope that they both work well. But if not, then perhaps you will be able to make one working lantern from those two. I reckon that the main problem with the Superb is that the vapouriser does not stay hot enough and even fitting a 500cp., Anchor mantle and tying it so that it forms close to the vapouriser does not cure the problem. I have come to the conclusion that the vents in the hood are to large and therefor far to much heat escapes. If strip of small mesh wire gauze was fitted inside the top part of the hood, then that might help to hold in the heat, Jeff.
Interesting idea, Jeff, and definitely worth a try - even on a temporary basis by initially fixing the mesh outside the ventilator to ascertain the effects. I would guess there's a balance to be struck - cut down the ventilation too much and the hood may get too hot and become damaged. Another possibility is that the airflow up through the globe be disrupted to the extent that the mantle didn't burn properly. I'm just thinking aloud here, of course... Now if I were in a position to be able to make a new vapouriser for one of these, I think I'd try putting fins on it, like the Coleman 238, is it? - the rare one... Edit: Yes, the [url=http://0flo.com/index.php?threads/4481
Thanks all for the info! The Coleman 238 appears to be (pretty much) a Vertias Superb, so I'd expect that it would be a good fix! I'm pleased to report however that although I made the mistake of trying to seperate the two parts of one burner and sheared that tiny machine screw off I have been able to make up one working lantern - oddly enough using the majority of parts from the one that looked worst on first inspection! Of course, one vapouriser has an enlarged orfice and a make-shift cleaning rod made from either a tilley or bialladin rod so I was glad when the other one turned out to be functional! The seal under the vapouriser has been replaced with a Tilley one, NRV pip replaced (glad it's like a Primus NRV!), pump washer from Sefa (same as a Bialladin!) and the mantle is a coleman gasman 1111 mantle. It was a warm day but there were no issues lighting it or leaving it lit (so far)! Date stamp "51" (I think)
In my opinion it's not only the vapouriser not staying hot enough but also an enlarged jet orifice that leads to the flaming and / or black mantle syndrome.
Good point - the jet on this one appears to be barely used... Does anyone know if it is possible to get new nipples/jets to screw into the end of the vapouriser? Is it a common thread with other stove/lantern nipples/jets?
I saw one of these yesterday and was somewhat tempted as I do think they are quite a nice looking lamp. When I picked it up and heard something large and metallic rolling around in the tank I wasn't so keen. No idea what it was but I sure didn't want to be the one to find out.
I wonder if it would help to get a strip of copper and wrap it tightly around the vapouriser a few times. Would this help to transfer heat from the mantle to the vap?
Ambient temperature was a factor with one of mine which was fine when the sun was shining on it but as soon as the sun went behind the house, that was it - flaring at the mantle etc. Bah! I would guess that some sort of heat conductive packing within the vapouriser would help, by slowing down the passage of kero through it and increasing the hot surface area within, thus aiding vapourisation...
Someone here may know of spares for the Veritas Superb, but I reckon that they are in short supply. Congratulations on getting a working lantern! Jeff.
I was looking at the coleman vapouriser and was thinking that the metal "fins" were possibly to combat the same issue. As the coleman appears to only have a rapid light preheater and not a spirit dish it could have also been to cut down on pre-heat time, either way, wrapping copper wire around (core from 1.5mm - 2.5mm T&E domestic mains cable perhaps?) may help although it may need to be soldered for efficient heat transfer. I was also wondering if the nipple from a coleman stove generator or other lantern vapourisier would fit? Either that or we may have to bribe someone with a small lathe to make some up!
Yes, if a metal strip was cut with slots exactly the same size as on the ventilator, formed into a ring and fitted to the outside, it could be used as one of those 'hit and miss' type ventilators. Rotation of the ring would vary the size of the slots between 0% and 100% and would enable the best balance to be obtained between keeping the vapouriser hot without impeding the airflow or damaging the hood. Once the optimum slot size was found (and therefrom the optimum ventilation area), then wire mesh could be chosen to provide that area, formed into a ring and affixed inside the hood. That's the theory part sorted out anyway...
Query: would a nipple from an austramax 3/300 be the correct size? Or do we need to be begging Stu to make adaptors to fit Coleman/Primus jets to Veritas vapourisers?!
