I got this T10 tablelamp: And it runs fine - but it leaks from the joint below the controlhandle here: It came with a rubberseal that still looks fine but no matter how hard i tight it - it leaks. Is the rubber origin or should it be led? Anyone? Thanks. Claus C
Yes it should be rubber. Might as well stick a fresh one in. An o-ring from a hardware store will do the job. Are you sure it is leaking from there and not someplace higher up and running down e.g. the pricker control?
It sure is from that joint James, and the rubber-ring looks fresh and with no scratches. I will chek again just to be sure tomorrow, that anything aint creeping down there from ex. the controlknob - I'll be back. Can the rod crack in some way? I didnt chek for invisible cracks Claus C
Claus, Either do a water pressure test by emptying the lamp, presurising it and dunking it in a bucket of water. Or just get some very soapy water and a brush and work this round the suspect leakage area while the lamp under pressure. Both tests will show bubbles where it is leaking from. I would start with the soapy water test. Steve.
Surely not - it's leaking kero, not air, from that point and above. I don't think the o-ring is a good idea either - it might work, but unless you get one exactly the correct size, both internal and external diameters, it won't be as good as the correct seal. Given that these are so easy to obtain, you might as well go for the pukka article - try the Fettlebox (kit V5)... BTW Claus, you shouldn't have to tighten anything much beyond hand-tight. Anything more than that indicates the seal is knackered i.e. abgenutzt and needs replacing...
David, If it leaks kero surely it will leak air which will show underwater Keep taking the pills mate . Steve.
Im so embarressed. Should it really be nescessary to use your(Steve&David) "patch cycle-technique" - but I emptied the lamp and put the tank under water. The leak came from above - from the next joint where the vapourizer was screwed on and my trusted but old eyes couldnt see the fuel that seeped out and gathered on the collar below. Ty Claus C
That's good Claus; problem is solved and with no great drama . Enjoy your classic table lamp . Steve.
A followup-Picture to be seen as I have enjoyed this one many time since, here in competition with a Petromax 826 from 1939: Claus C
Hi Claus, looks very bright! (what's the CP of the P'max?) I see you run it on sunflower seed oil... How about the smell when used for a long time indoors? All the best, Wim
Sunfloweroil is for the pumpleather-trick Wim. And the smell - I am not at home, I am in the woodwork-shop here 8) The cp is 350 on the Petromax but I think the Bialaddin looked a bit whiter-bright Claus C
The Bialaddin is rated at 300cp but most don't reach that. I did have one here which with new burner parts measured 307cp so they will do their rate. For some reason these were never as popular as the Tilley although they are very well made lamps. The only down side was the enamell galley which is often found in very poor and rusty condition. ::Neil::
