*Edit: Follow up from . Hi All Here are a few pic's to be getting on with I have started on the shorter lamp of the two as this had a broken pricker control wire handle & a sheared off screw in the adjustable height support for the shade assembly & it might be prudent to start with the worst looking burner first I had to use a small propane torch to get everything loosened off as most things were gummed up after years of neglect The burner is in very good condition & all parts are there apart from a broken pricker wire , but i should be able to repair or fabricate a new one Note the long rod in the foreground this was pushed into the down tube from the tank & i'm not sure if it was to hold the wadding material or restrict the fuel flow to the vapouriser The burner all stripped out & ready for cleaning If anyone has a similar burner does the control assembly unscrew from the bottom of the down tube or is it fixed in permanently The shade is as large as a Tilley OL reflector at 14 inches & the opening is about five inches wide More pic's to follow
The top of the shade with a chrome ring over the cast shade support held in by three chrome screws The shades are in very good codition with only a few chips out of the enamel finish The shorter lamps fount has a couple of patches where the chrome has peeled off & the other has a couple of very minor scars Both still look good though Finaly the top of the fount has the Stanley badge soldered to it Keep you posted how the fettling's comming along Stu .
Sorry if i have repeated the pic's & info but i didn't realise i'd posted in the wrong area of the forum by mistake Stu .
No worries. Sometimes I wonder if we just don't have too many sections. It can be a bit complicated from time to time.
Well folks here we go As you saw i had stripped down the burner & was getting ready to clean all the parts & repair them as needed & most of these had a good soak in the citric acid bath first , the main job was to replace the missing pricker wire & make a new control handle for the same as this had been snapped of during its life somewhere along the line The cleaned & repaired parts layed out ready for assembly As you can see a new 0.009 wire fitted in the pricker carriage , i'm not sure if this is the original size but it seemed to fit with a little clearance The carriage fitted back into the manifold with the jet ready to be screwed back into place with a little copperease anti seize on the threads this is to make a good seal & it's easier to strip again at a later date if needed The pricker control has a new simple angled wire silver soldered into place All the compression nuts on the burner manifold were sealed up with Terry's excellent graphite foil to make new valve stem packing 8) , the jet & adjustable air flow collar in place ready for the burner to be slipped on The burner is quite a large one with twice the area of a standard Coleman type & the venturi is like a black hole In the first pic you can see what i think is an asbestos woven filter which slips into the downtube/vapouriser & this has a steel support rod in the centre , the end has been stitched to stop the rod from blocking the flow of fuel into the manifold The burner finally assembled with all the parts in place & at the bottom the fuel on/off control cock with the simple pretty cast flat blade handle After the shade support collar was in place the compression joint that joins the tank to the burner was screwed back on with a smear of the same copper antiseize The fount had been washed out first with some paraffin & then some panel wipe to get rid of any muck or old gummy fuel , then i turned my attention to the filler cap/pressuring valve that still had a very hard seal attached which was snapped off Then a new viton one fitted 8) Much to my suprise the sealing ball inside worked perfectly after a quick flush with carb cleaner The two halves of the lamp were joined together & a pint of panel wipe fuel funneled into the tank ready for a pre-light pressure test , 25PSI was put into the tank with an airline & no leaks after ten minutes Time to give the old girl a pre-heat with a clip on Tilley torch & see what happens next Et voila the first flame shots , i wonder how many years it has been since this was fired up last 8) Larer I'll slip the shade on & a couple of mantles for the final set of pic's on the Stanley 976 restoration Stu
Hi Stu, Looking good as I would now expect from you as the master fettler you are . Will be good to see the finished fettle with mantles, shade and working. Well done mate . Steve.
Hi All I contacted the seller to find out if they had any more info on the Stanley's & apparently they came from a large farm & were bought many many years ago , the seller also thought i was going to convert them to electric , no way Thanks again for the nice comments so far & here are the final pic's of lamp with the shade, heatshield & mantles fitted I fitted a couple of Coleman 1111 500CP mantles for the fire up of this unusual & rare pendant lamp & illuminating the workshop 8) With a Coleman 228F that i picked up yesterday for company & shutdown I'm very pleased to say that i have not been at all dissapointed with the performance of the Stanley lamp & will be getting the other one fettled very soon Stu
Hi All I could not get the snapped off pricker wire out from the original crimped joint on the other pricker carriage so this was removed & a 1.45mm hole drilled into the top drilling very small square section brass in a 3 jaw chuck will just not go so i drilled out an 8mm brass rod from the scap box to 5mm the same as the widest points of the square section & slit one side of this tube length ways to make a simple collet to hold the carriage while i drilled it in the lathe The hole in the carriage was tapped to 1/16 unc & a new pricker assembly was made from 1/16 dia brass rod with a 0.009 wire crimped in The other end of the rod having a slightly flared end was screwed into the hole in the carriage giving it a firm hold & being easily replaceable in the future if needed I may apply this technique to other internal prickers in the future if possible The second burner is all done & ready to go back onto the other fount More pic's when the other Stanley gets fired up 8) Stu .
well done Stu nice job intresting to see your solutions to problems too where does the 009 wire come from where do you find that ? cheers pete Just seen the guitar wire in the packet on the bench in the last pic
Hi All As you know i have been working on the scond burner & was ready to test it on the fount , so i pressure tested this first without fuel & then with & no problems were encountered. The Tilley pre heating torch was clipped on & lit , after a few minutes the control cock was cracked open & the burner sprung into life with a super blue flame & then things started to get a bit hairy Fuel started running down the feed pipe to the burner on the outside instead of the inside & flames started licking quickly where they shouldn't EMERGENCY STOP Luckily for me the situation was soon under control The fount was stripped down & the chrome down pipe cover was removed & a pool of leaked fuel spilled out from the inverted cup On closer inspection a hairline crack an inch long & only visible with an eye loop was located a quarter of an inch out from the feed pipe It seems the chrome outer down pipe sleeve was too long by a few mm when the end connecting joint/fitting was screwed into place & had caused this tiny stress crack by pulling the fount out of shape Repair time the area around the crack was cleaned & roughed up ready for a tinned repair brass patch to be applied like a band-aid this was made from thin brass shimm Plumbers flux was applied to both sides of the join & a gentle heat was applied to the patch sweating it into place over the damaged area It's not a pretty repair but it's strong & will be hidden by the chrome cover 30 PSI of pressure was used to test the fount & after 30 mins no further leaks were found A quick burner test was done just to make sure before lamp was re-built including the shade & Coleman 1111 mantles were added ready to start again Pre-heating & i think we're there finally 8) The roof in my workshop is far too low for the longer lamp so the next best thing is my summer house with a nine foot high clearance Looks like this is where it will live from now on This will be the final installment of the 976's for now & i hope this has been an informative & interesting restoration on these rare pendant lamps Stu
Great work Stu and great photo-line. It fits your summerresidence perfect and I bet the lamps was made for sparetime-houses like that from the start as light and heating. Thanks for sharing. Claus C
Well fettled Stu and the summer house is the perfect place for it! The lamp will also keep the place cosy in the winter, Jeff.
Hi Folks Thanks for all the nice comments , this has been a really enjoyable job & i just need to sort out the shades & see if i can tidy them up a bit more Jean , Yes i did build it myself with the help of SWMBO passing me the bits while i was up the ladder we did the base too made of four inch thick concrete then 24"x24" slabs to get a perfectly level base to set the log cabin on The roof is insulated as is the floor so we can use it all year round , no electrickery just paraffin heating & petrol/paraffin & lighting , lovely My pre-war Famos on song 8) Our little sanctuary 8) Stu
