Hi all My recent purchase a primus1001 appears to have the early mixing bowl/burner head and this does not appear to screw onto the riser tube properly!IE the thread my be damaged, will this effect the running of the lamp? before I get too involved in fettling the rest of it. Secondly what size should the jet hole be and is there a cleaning needle worked by the regulator knob? Thanks Nick
How about some pictures of the mixing dome and how it looks when attached to the riser? It's hard to tell if it will affect your performance, but even if the thread is damaged, it might work. The orifice of the jet is probably around 0.20 mm. The jet needed is No. 6145. Yes, the control knob operate a cleaning needle (part no. 6131). And that's all the knob do. It's not to regulate or shut the lantern off. Here's how it should look on your lantern too. The needle is in top position, as you can see, and the part no. 6145 is stamped on the jet:
I believe the chance for damage to this thread is one of the reasons they changed the flame spreader. The thread is cut into the inner edge of the 'gills' of the flame spreader and these have a tendency to warp with prolonged use. Performance wise there is otherwise no problem with them. If the thread is damaged then the flame spreader can possibly move which would break the mantle, otherwise it shouldn't affect the performance.
Christer and Nils, Thanks both very much. I am glad that you have posted a couple of pictures that are of great help. The gills underneath the burner seem to be the problem as you suggest, so I will think about that while I wait for the Mantles to arrive. The needle does not project from the jet in the up position as in your picture so I guess I am going to have to dismantle the riser tube to access the mechanism and see whats going on? The trouble is that the steel parts are pretty fragile with rust so I am going to have to be very careful not to do damage rather than cure it! The nut under the spirit cup is rusted on, so is soaking in Plus gas as we speak before I attempt to undo it. The hood support ring is also rusted through in a couple of places which is a pity. Thanks Nick
Right I have taken the jet off and the needle is about 2mm long and pointed so I presume that this means that its worn away and needs replacing which will be a problem no doubt. Do i need to take the pin out of the regulator knob so that it can be rotated to wind the needle out of the tube? Nick
If you unscrew the vaporiser, the cleaning needle rod will come loose by just rotating the knob clockwise until the rack at the bottom of the rod is free of the pinion the knob actuates. You take the vapouriser away by putting a wrench on the hex-shaped area just under the jet, and screw it counter-clockwise. The vapo should come of quite easily. You don't need to remove the nut you mention as rusted. By what it sounds from your description, that one is probably the thin nut that secure the globe cage to the tank. If you just intend to exchange the needle, it will come of by screwing it away from the rod. No need to remove the rod itself for that, but I highly recommend that you remove the vapouriser anyway. It's just as good to give it a good de-coking since you already has started to dismantle things, and the lead seal at the bottom will most likely still work when you put it all together again. If you check , you can see some more details of how some parts look. It might give an idea how things come apart.
The nut is made of brass but the globe cage base is tinned steel. Once the vapouriser is removed, I would recomend using a socket on this nut as it is otherwise hard to get at.
Thanks Nils I had come to that conclusion myself about the socket spanner, I am still dosing it up with Plus gas every few hours at the moment I may go and get a long box spanner fot the job. Christer thanks for the very useful link a picture paints a thousand words. I will start posting a few pictures soon. Nick
NMP The nut is brass and easy to ruin. I used what they call in the STATES an anode extractor tool used to remove the anode(s) on a hot water heater. It's hex shaped and they can vary in length, usually about six inches long. They have a hole in the side where you can insert a screw driver or some other devise to get a good twist on the thing. I would soak the hex nut good in some penetrating oil before I started twisting it. I had to do this with my 1001 but it came off and all went pretty well.
Hi George Nils and Christer. Its been some time since I posted on this! George I bought a box spanner and got the nut that holds the gallery on, off, and dismantled and cleaned the needle mechanism and repacked it etc.Found a Primus No96 stove filler cap that fits mine was missing from the lantern. The mantles appear to be the wrong ones IE tied at one end!aida 300/400 so I untied the end and managed to fit it. The loose burner dome was fixed by wrapping tin foil round the riser then screwing it back on. A few pre heats and then some smoke and flames and pulsing for a few minutes and then the mantle began to glow white!! I am used to stoves that do not take a lot of pumping so found that I had to pump it a lot to get a good light but it works! So back for the correct mantles, a new needle then glass plus a filler cap and it will be sorted,but at least I know it works. I will post some pictures as soon as poss now. Any ides about getting the glass and maybe a new jet? Cheers Nick
Well done! Just a pity about the mantles. So these were Aida? Then I guess it's better to go with Luxor. Or make clear which ever they are, that they aren't pre-tied in any end. The initial flames shouldn't be there, but these burners need much preheating. Did you use a brim filled cup? Regarding the glass, I don't know where to get reproductions for them. They are large (same size as the 1050 and 1051 use). But these lanterns look better with a mica globe, so why not go for one of those instead? Let us see the result.
Hi Christer The mantles were Aida 300/400 that's what it said on the pack but the invoice from Stuga Cabana says gluehstruempf 350 AID-3665 ? If you turn the mantle inside out its possible to unpick the cord on the tied end and loosen it off enough to get it onto the vapouriser tube. I am glad that you mentioned them needing a lot of preheating I did use a full spirit cup and another one but it was still a lot of kerosine flame for a while.The other problem is not having a needle I could not close that off then build up pressure ready to turn it on as the meths flames died down so I was relying on a stove type lighting method! Once lit the light was good. What is a mica globe? Nick
Well, then you actually did just as you are supposed to do. There's no on/off switch on most paraffin lanterns, unless they have a preheating torch. You actually just do light them in the same way as the normal paraffin stove. Meaning full cup of spirits. Light it. Wait. Wait a bit more... ...a little more... And then, just as the alcohol is about to expire you start to pump, but not before that. And as the mantle turns white and bright, you just pump until you don't notice any increase in light output anymore. Regarding the needle, that's no problem. I would gladly send you one or two. Mica is a transparent sheet silica mineral that was quite common to use on earlier lanterns instead of glass. I'm sure you've seen this material in the nature. You can make cylinders out of mica rather than glass, and it's both lighter and in some aspects also much more durable. Like . There's a guy in USA called Fred Kuntz who make very good reproductions for most lanterns, and he made the one for my Lux in that link. And a 1001, just like yours, with its original mica globe. Battered, ugly, and perhaps not as clear as when made, but nevertheless doing its job very well after eigthy five years of service.
Hi Christer Thanks for the offer of some needles how do I get the needle out of the carrier with the rack on or is the whole thing one?I will contact you via PM is there anything you need in the way of spares as a swap? Thanks Nick
Looks like an interesting way to preheat the lantern in the first photo. Good to see it running. I am interested to hear how well the foil stands up on the burner thread. This could be a usefull idea. I can see that the lower end of your mantle is tied too high up on the vaporiser. It is meant to be in the groove you can see just above the air tubes. This will also help with heat transfer once it is running. The needle should just unscrew from the end of the rod. The original ones are just threaded steel with a point but the later were a square section brass piece with the needle attached. Here is a picture of the two types. The steel ones can be badly rusted and the flats almost gone. A bit of heat and quench usually loosens them. The needles are the same ones used for the 1020 and spares can be bought from Base Camp and Fogas. If I remember correctly, the glass is 135mm in diameter and 130mm high. Like Christer, I havn't found anyone selling new glass so a mica replacement from Fred is a very good idea.
Hi Nils My needle is a rather mangled version of the first one in your picture. I thought that it probably unscrewed but I am going to have trouble getting hold of it to get it out!Thanks for the heat and quench reminder. so will leave it for the time being. I will take on board the mantle positioning next time I tie one on I only have one left spare now I find that a tank full of hot kero means the lamp lights a lot more easily hence the use of the Svea Stove!! dont do this at home folks!! It was the only space left on my tiny work bench! Cheers Nick
Nils the heat and quench worked very well one cycle and the use of a pair of medical forceps and the needle unscrewed as easily as that! Now to contact base camp. Nick
I have fitted a new cleaning needle and jet Kindly supplied by Christer and fitted a tilley mantle after untying the tied end and fired her up.... very disappointing result to be honest just a dull orange glow!! Any ideas? since then my wife has bought a mica globe made by Fred Kuntz back from the USA I will fit that and try another mantle then report back again. Any input gratefully received. Nick
That's extremely strange. Do you have full pressure? And you have thourougly de-coked the vaporiser? Perhaps something is restricting the fuel supply. You can unscrew the mixing dome to expose the jet, raise the needle and pump up a decent pressure. Then lower the cleaning needle and see if you will get a strong jet of paraffin. It should easily reach the ceiling (which not is recommended to actually check. Better to do it outside...) By the way! Don't waste any mantles before you know that you have a good flame. It's always best to try lanterns without mantles initially.
Hi Christer I have seen a few "flame shots" without mantles and wondered if this was a safe way of testing without wasting a mantle thanks for confirming this. I still wonder if I have the cleaning needle in the right position but was just too tired to do much tonight I will have another look over the weekend. Thanks for the input. Nick
