Hi! This is my first post on this neat forum. I have been reading this forum occasionally for a while, along with spiritburner.com. I really like the atmosphere and the camaraderie here, but since I didn't actually own a lantern, I never bothered to create an account. That has changed recently, I bought an old military Petromax HK 500 and started cleaning it up. It's a thing of beauty, I love the design, construction and all the accessories you can get (even a cooking adapter ). However I couldn't get it to work, it was impossible to build up pressure, after a few strokes the pump came back up automatically. Read around a bit and this seemed an obvious checkvalve problem. Firstly I fitted a stronger spring in the valve, when that didn't resolve the problem I suspected the valve body itself (+ the lead washer), so I ordered a spare part set (http://www.pelam.de/product_info.php?cPath=30_50_80&products_id=277) and fitted a completely new non return valve You can already guess: no cigar. When I fill up the pump tube with water, it rapidly drains right into the faunt body, so now I think the tube (brazed into the faunt body?) is leaking... This seems quite bizarre, the lamp is in pristine condition otherwise and I really don't see how this could happen during normal use. Has anyone seen something like this before? Is it possible to fix this? Thanks a lot in advance!
Hi Pozidrive and wellcome. You can go the other way around and fill your lamp with airpressure and hold it under Water to see exact where the leak is. Sometime the joint at the middle of the vapourizer leaks and the fuel runs discret Down to the fount so it looks like fuel comes out of the fount - but under Water trick will show. Good luck. Claus C
My suggestion would be to add air max 2 bar to the font via the filler cap or the font outlet and observe under water for leaks in pump tube or surrounds. A split in pump tube is possible.
Hi I am new to the forum and have three BW 500HK. When I got my first NOS 500, I had trouble lighting it due to a leak. After inspection I found that the spray nozzle was loose. Simple fix. It may help you.
I have had a similar problem on one of my Aladdins. This is also what I do when a non return valve is too badly damaged (burred) to use the valve removal tool. The end cap of the pump tube, the part the non return valve screws into, had a leak in the soldered joint. Fix was to unsolder the pump tube with a small blowtorch, one that chef's use, But drain the font first and clean with a degreaser to remove traces of kerosene and allow to dry out in a low oven, if the wife will allow or leave in the sun for a few days. Once removed resolder the end cap. Then resolder the pump in position. This must be done with the blowtorch NOT a soldering iron if you want a clean joint. The pump tube will show a very clear line from the original soldering so it is easy to set it back in its original position. Make sure you heat the font and the pump evenly and slowly do not rush or overheat it. Use resin-cored solder. Solder will flow towards the heat but try to keep the joint as horizontal as possible by placing the font at an angle. Do not use too much solder jus enough to do the job. Once again, go slowly, heat both parts and do not overheat. KEEP THE FLAME MOVING. If done properly it is very hard to detect the repair even on a nickel plated font. Hope this helps
