Tilley pump question

Discussion in 'Fettling Forum' started by Dean, Jan 28, 2015.

  1. Dean

    Offline
    Joined:
    Oct 11, 2012
    Messages:
    68
    Hi all;
    I got a Tilley X246A a couple days ago, and in changing out all the gaskets/seals, when I came to
    the fitting on the bottom of the pump tube that holds the check valve or NRV, I was unable to unscrew
    the fitting. I have another Tilley, and the same fitting on that one came apart easily. This one is
    really stuck.

    Looking closer, I think I see why it's so tight.


    1422413076-1.jpg

    Someone soldered the threads. It's not supposed to be that way, right? This nut is supposed to
    come out, isn't it?

    I tried heating it to loosen the solder, but I'm thinking someone may have cross threaded the piece
    in the past, and soldered it to stop it from leaking. It's very well stuck. I could see the
    solder on the threads brighten and melt, but it still would not come out. Eventually, the complete
    insert in the bottom of the pump tube came out.

    I'm wondering, is that threaded insert in the bottom of the pump tube sold as a replacement item,
    or do I need to buy a complete pump tube?

    Thanks for your help!

    Dean
     

    Attached Files:

  2. John

    John United States Subscriber

    Offline
    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2011
    Messages:
    770
    Location:
    Dallas, Texas; United States
    Hello Dean,

    Yes the aluminum hex should have unscrewed, it holds the pip and spring in place. I have had these be quite the bear to get apart and heating them really does a number in the pip spring.

    The threaded part should stay soldered on the tube, it isn't available separately. At this point I would say that a replacement tube would be the best solution.
     
  3. Dean

    Offline
    Joined:
    Oct 11, 2012
    Messages:
    68
    Thanks John. I didn't realize it was aluminum until I had heated it, and then wondered how solder
    could have got in there. It shouldn't have flowed, so maybe it's not solder I was seeing.
    I'm still thinking galled threads. I had a proper
    wrench on it before the corners rounded off.

    I knew I was going to ruin the spring. I figured to make a new one, but that is a moot point, now.

    Thanks for the personal message.

    Dean
     
  4. Lamp Doctor Australia

    Offline
    Joined:
    Jan 3, 2013
    Messages:
    622
    Location:
    Geelong
    Dean .
    That's why you buy old crappy tilleys for spare parts only .
    They come in handy etc for things like that .
    Bob
     
  5. Dean

    Offline
    Joined:
    Oct 11, 2012
    Messages:
    68
    Hi Bob;
    If it were a Coleman, I would have plenty of spare parts. ;) This is my first Tilley lantern, so
    far.
    My other Tilley is an R-1. I'm used to the American makes, but am liking these British jobs, too.
     
  6. Tony Press

    Tony Press Netherlands Subscriber

    Offline
    Joined:
    Aug 28, 2012
    Messages:
    11,101
    Location:
    Stinkpot Bay, Howden, Tasmania, Australia
    Is there anyone in your hemisphere that can pass you the bits you need? Otherwise PT me with what you need and I'll see what I've got.

    Tony
     
  7. Dean

    Offline
    Joined:
    Oct 11, 2012
    Messages:
    68
    Tony, John has some parts he is kindly sending my way. He'll have me squared away.

    Thanks,

    Dean
     
  8. Gneiss

    Gneiss Subscriber

    Offline
    Joined:
    Oct 7, 2012
    Messages:
    1,590
    Unfortunately the aluminium often corrodes and they seize in, you often have the same issure with the threaded ring that holds the frame in place on 246Bs...

    If you do manage to get it apart then the answer is to only do these things finger tight and then no more than a fraction of a turn with a wrench. Just check occasionally that it hasn't come loose. Then in future it shouldn't happen again.

    One of the biggest problem with all makes of lamp is people having overtightened things in the past.
     

Share This Page