Good afternoon all. I am looking for a bit of advice concerning a Geniol 150cp vapouriser. I bought a new replacement vapouriser after I discovered that the threads on the old one where the jet screws into were ruined. On receipt of the new item, I discovered that it was approximately 5mm too long. This extra 5mm resulted in the cleaning needle not being able to protrude through the jet even after having been extended to its max and the air gap between the jet and mixing tube was off. The seller confirmed that the new Petromax 150cp are made that bit longer than the old items so it is not a production fault. I have been considering my options, and this is one of them. I am thinking of melting the solder below the loop, breaking the join, cut away the offending length of pipe and re solder. Now the questions are can this joint be desoldered, and if so what type of solder should I use to make good the joint again. Any advice would be appreciated. Go raibh maith agaibh.
hello, If the new parts don't fit in the old lamps then there is an issue with the production. One of the reasons petromax lanterns became popular is this fact: you can still buy parts (that fit). So if the chinese are now off for 5mm then that is not correct in my view. As for (de)soldering : can you solder ? If you can you would not ask. The solder should withstand the heat so a high temperature solder would be the right one.
The new Petromax 150CP vapourisers are different by design to the older Geniol vapourisers. This is not a design flaw. http://www.dutchieonline.de/150erzicke.htm Regarding soldering, no I can't but will give it a shot. Silver solder I now believe will do the trick. Does any person have experience in desoldering this join?
Hello Eiremax, I had a similar issue interchanging parts from a 500CP Sea Anchor to a Petromax & vice versa. I don't remember clearly, but think there was also an issue with the vaporizer length. However, in your place instead of cutting / resoldering the vaporizer yourself I'd try to ask other suppliers about the length of vaporizers they sell, and maybe getting a suitable one from elsewhere. Another solution could be to cut the jet thread a bit deeper and then mill off the top a bit. Maybe that could be enough, but there must not remain any scratches on the seating plane for the jet. Remaining problem is that the preston loop must not abut on to the inner hood. BR, Martin
The joints on these vaporizers are brazed rather than soldered. If your main problem is the pricker not reaching the gas jet, I think a more workable solution would be to lengthen the conducting rod, or get one for a full sized PMax and shorten it to the needed length. Dean
Thanks for the above however the vapouriser has to be shortend as it's height is interfering with the hood and air gap. I was toying with the idea of buying a flaring kit then cutting of the flare where it seats into the lower half of the vapouriser resuiling in it being shorter and then reforming the flare or does anybody have an old vapouriser surplus to requirements?
Is the bottom of the vaporizer (where the jamb nut is) a flare, or a ferrule? On all of the PMax types I own, it is a ferrule rather than a flare. If that is the case with yours, you could cut off the original ferrule and put on a new one. You may have to have one made to order, or it could be a common plumbing sized ferrule. (Note: Maybe you would call a ferrule an "olive". I'm from the US so, sorry if the terms were confusing.)
I made a beginners mistake. After some thinking, I decided the best course of action was to do what Dean said above. I cut of the lower end thinking that the pipe had to be 8mm. Turns out it was an odd size of 8.76mm. Went looking for a ferrule, couldn't find one that could be accommodated within the nut. Oh well. Anyhow after a bit of searching I located a dealer in Germany that had one the correct heigth. Burning money but hey its a Geniol150☺ Hopefully all will be ok, thank you to all for the advice.
This is the new vapouriser. Perfect fit, however when preforming the dunk test, I noticed it leaking air from that lump of solder on the loop. I messaged the seller so see what happens from here....
That can be easily fixed with some high temp silver solder brazed on , looks like the last repair was unsucessful because the area was not cleaned up well enough although a small patch may need to be applied Not sure where you are but PT me if you'd like me to have a go , Ah my bad Southern Ireland Stu
Thanks for the offer Stu, but I'm slightly p'd off due to the fact that this is my second time buying an expensive part that doesn't work. Still waiting on a reply from the seller.
Infuriating I know but don't get to pi$$ed, its easily repaired, let Stu help you and you'll soon be up and running !
Thanks a million for the offer stu, it's much appreciated. I will see how I fair out today with the seller and see what this take on things are. It's just annoying when you buy parts to replace a faulty part and then they are faulty!! €60 spent so far on two parts that don't work
Early this morning I got a email from the seller and I am delighted with the customer service. They are sending me a replacement part today so hopefully I will have the wee lamp up and running by the weekend. Thank you hytta.de
That looks great now. What was the story on the faulty vapouriser? And it was supposedly new? That solder blob looked very wrong... I suppose you had to return it.
After a bit more messing around with it, I have it working it's best since it came into my ownership. Here she is along with a nice Irish red, Sláinte!
Thanks Wim but they can be very temperamental aswell. A lot of work in them compared to say a 1020. I was in Belgium a couple of times, very nice county. I would travel again to it in the morning if I could! Waffles and beer
