Many questions--first time Vapalux lamp owner

Discussion in 'Pressure Lamp Discussion Forum' started by esarratt, Mar 4, 2015.

  1. esarratt

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    I just bought a 1945 Vapalux 300X. Damn fine piece of equipment! It works well.

    I did a lot of reading before making my choice. I liked the Vapalux because it is kerosene and so simple to operate and fix.

    I have experience with kerosene stoves, but not lamps. I need a little advice, fear-removal and hand holding.

    When lighting, I accidentally let the pre-heating alcohol go out before getting enough pumps in to light the mantels. How long must I wait for the stove to cool before re-starting the pre-heating process? I waited about 10 minutes.

    I was afraid that adding alcohol to a hot lamp for pre-heating might cause the alcohol spontaneously ignite. Can this happen?

    My fears are probably overblown, but when shutting off the lamp by loosening the air release screw, can the air-kerosene mixture that is released cause an explosion (ignite)?

    If the stove were to fall over while lit could there be a fire or would it just go out? I realize that kerosene is a relatively safe fuel compared to petrol/gasoline and does not ignite as easily.

    Any history of kerosene lamps exploding? Just asking. Again, I realize there is not an explosion risk like propane or gasoline/petrol.

    Are there any attachments or devices available to adapt the stove for cooking? It puts out quite a bit of heat and seems like it could easily heat a meal in a pinch.

    I have read that the spirit well wick is actually made of asbestos. Any danger of inhaling asbestos particles when pre-heating the lamp? I'm not real worried about it, but the thought just crossed my mind so I thought I would ask.

    I am considering purchasing another Vapalux with a steel tank. I really don't want to empty and clean a steel tank once a week as the "yellow sign" on the tank says so is this cleaning really necessary?

    My intention is to use this lamp fairly regularly. I am building an off grid home and am sometimes stuck finishing up the days work after dark. Its a little scary being out in the woods without a good light source. We have black bear, bobcat and coyotes in the area.
     
  2. John

    John United States Subscriber

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    Hello,

    The Vapalux is a very good design and a solidly built lamp.

    No need to wait to reprime the lamp, once the alcohol flames die out just refill the cup and relight it; of course you want to be careful no flame still exist lest you get a flaming alcohol nozzle.

    I've been running all types of kerosene lamps for years, while the sound of escaping air can be unnerving it will not catch fire, there just isn't the volume of air available for that.

    The steel Vapalux tank isn't all that different from a standard Coleman tank, even the brass ones usually had a steel bottom. You won't hurt it any worse than it already is, being WWII vintage and all. Condensation forms in all pressure vessels, careful cleaning negates this.
     
  3. esarratt

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    Thanks for the information.
     
  4. Mackburner

    Mackburner United Kingdom RIP - Founder Member

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    This lamp like most others is a self contained pressure vessel and in use there is only one outlet for the pressure which is through the jet. On its side if the fuel pick up is still in the fuel then the lamp will just keep running. If the fuel level is below the pick up then the lamp will go out and the air will vent out. The only real dangers are possibly cracking the globe and with a burning mantle it may set fire to or scorch whatever is under the lamp.

    I am not aware of any examples of a Vapalux/Bialaddin exploding.

    Venting to shut off is safe. Kero is not volatile enough to burn at room temperatures and in any case there will be very little kero in the vented air and certainly not enough to support conbustion.

    Yes the older wicks are asbestos. It is contained within the globe cage so in storage there is no problem. In use there is a draught running through the globe cage and with burning alcohol or not there is the possibility that some fibres night get vented from the hood. However after a while the asbestos is blackened from the burning alcohol and I guess this might provide a sort of carbonised seal to the fibres and the risk of flying particles is much reduced.

    Forget the cooking notion. The top of the hood is too far above the flame and it might take an hour or more to boil a cup of water. Might be enough to keep a coffe pot hot but not for cooking.

    Steel Vapalux tanks are not as well protected as Coleman and if left with water inside will rot out from the inside. Not a problem if you use the lamp regularly as any water in the fuel is sucked up into the generator. Left with fuel inside for any length of time is putting the base plate at risk of corrosion. There is ALWAYS some water in kero simply because there is water vapour in the air you pump in to the tank. It is therefore important to empty these steel tanks before storing the lamp for any lengthy period.

    ::Neil::
     
  5. Gneiss

    Gneiss Subscriber

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    On some lamps if the spirit burns away, provided you are quick enough you can pump a bit of pressure in and light with a long match... Usually no need to reprime if you do it imediately.

    You sometimes have to do this anyway if a lamp goes out when you operate the cleaning needle. As long as it is hot enough it will light, just don't poke the match through the mantle!

    The problem with a 300X is that you can't easily get a match in the right place...

    If you do have to reprime when the lamp is still hot just be aware it can light with a bit of a bang :lol:
     
  6. Mackburner

    Mackburner United Kingdom RIP - Founder Member

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    Might be but then I hate Mince pies 'cos they are full of bits and I hate food with bits in. Not too fond of salmonella either so warmed over meat pies is out as well. ::Neil::
     
  7. esarratt

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    Thanks for the information.
     
  8. esarratt

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    By base plate do you mean?
    1) The plate at the base of the kero tank?
    2) The inside of the top of the kero tank--the "roof" that water would condense on?
    3) Or is it some other part?

    The reason I ask is my other older Vapalux has a brass tank with a steel bottom.

    Thanks.
     
  9. esarratt

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    Just destroyed my first mantle.

    Bought another Vapalux and the mantle was intact after being shipped across the pond. I hit it with a computer air duster to blow out the cobwebs and now I am mantle shopping.
     
  10. Derek

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    I'm sure Neil will advise accurately on Vapalux construction, but water being heavier than oil will always lay in the bottom-most areas of a tank, and that is where the corrosion will mostly occur.

    Mantles: Fragile aren't they! Don't breathe the dust.
     
  11. David Shouksmith

    David Shouksmith India Founder Member

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    :-k Did older Vapalux have brass tanks with steel bottoms? I'd always assumed they were either all brass or all steel. Where's me magnet... :lol:
     

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