Primus 1001 fettle

Discussion in 'Fettling Forum' started by outback boy, Dec 1, 2011.

  1. outback boy Australia

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    Hi to all, this is my first post as a new member, bought a Primus 1001 a few years back and it has sat there because of a broken burner, decided to experiment with a fettle using a reworked Bialaddin burner because the chance s of finding another burner here in Australia would be like raising the Titanic, anyhow the end result was better than I hoped for, hope the pictures tell the story, Regards to all Frank


    1322733356-primus_3.jpg

    1322733374-primus_2.jpg

    1322733400-primus_1.jpg
     

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  2. JEFF JOHNSON

    JEFF JOHNSON United Kingdom Subscriber

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    Hello and welcome aboard! :thumbup:

    That's a very interesting adaptation, Jeff.
     
  3. Nils Stephenson

    Nils Stephenson Founder Member

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    Hi Frank and welcome to the forum.

    This is an interesting modification. If I understand correctly, in the picture labelled 'primus_1' there is the original Primus burner (mixing dome and flame spreader) on the left, in the middle is a complete Bialaddin burner and on the right is the modified Bialaddin burner. How is the thread compatibility to the Primus burner tube? I'm wondering how easy it would be for others to copy the idea. These pre 1930 burner tops from Primus are a bit fragile and a solid replacement would be good for a lamp that is being used.

    Btw, what year is the 1001 from?
     
  4. outback boy Australia

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    Hello Nils, yes the burner cap left is the old one, the middle near complete burner assembly is off a Tilley as I only had one spare Bialaddin burner and it has to be a Bialaddin to do the job because when you screw out the spigot it has the same size thread as the Primus, it was slightly tight but only finger tight, your right these type burners are fragile the same style burners on later 1001’s are similar to Tilley, Bialaddin, gas holes instead of slots in the bottom of the burner, the lamp has a U stamped into the bottom of the tank, not sure what year that represents, if anyone wants to copy this burner I am happy to send a set of pictures of the burner complete and dismantled and how I did the project, thanks for the feed back guys, regards Frank
     
  5. Nils Stephenson

    Nils Stephenson Founder Member

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    U = 1930. This must have been early 1930 though as it still has the old burner. You see both types of burners on stuff from 1930, but I would say mostly the newer type.

    What sort of mantle are you using? When I was back home last (Bundaberg) I found the Kookaburra brand D3 mantles worked fine. The price was right too. They seem to work well on Kayen and Tilley lamps as well.
     
  6. outback boy Australia

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    About three years ago i bought a bulk lot of double tie mantles off ebay most were d2 outdoors brand, when they arrived i found out why they were offered cheap, they were pre-tied, but they were a fairly big mantle that suits the 1001 lamp, just sniped the top string and i use a large metal curtain ring to hold it in place, the bottom tie is just big enough to be forced over the bottom grove, they are a rather open weave mantle so when i can find some finer weave it will be even brighter, i think, must try the d3 mantles you spoke of, cheers Nils.
     
  7. Matty

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    I, my whole life, have envied those that can manufacture whatever it is they need and then use it.

    Sadly, I have zero soldering, welding or metal working skills - or even the tools if I did have the skills that would enable me to personally repair a lamp.

    To repair a part or make your own part, rather than to have to buy a replacement, would be so much more satisfying, I suspect.

    It must be awesome for those of you that can buy decrepit old lamps and bring them back to life with your own ingenuity.

    Fantastic job Frank.
     
  8. esarratt

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    Soldering is not that difficult. My dad taught me when I was 13 on a computer circuit board--the technique transfers easily to other applications. I'm not a great solderer like someone with years of experience but I can hold my own to get a OK repair job done. I probably have 10 hours of soldering experience in my life.

    Welding and other metalworking skills can be easily taught. One of my mental health students (I was a college teacher at one time), a female, was a welder. She took a course at a community college and learned the trade. She also repaired her own cars.

    I have considered taking a welding course for the experience. The prices aren't bad at local colleges. You can also take courses for "no grade" (its called "audit a course") if you are worried about beating yourself up for the quality of your work.

    Just jump in. If you screw up do it again. I do a lot of jobs twice or even three times until I get the hang of it.
     
  9. Matty

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    esarrat, that's pretty straight forward but really sound advice. Good Onya.
     
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