G'day all, I thought the metho cup was a good little mod on this lamp (not mine). Frank, from CPL, gave me the idea to use Handi metho cups and drill them out to 10mm. Now I see it in action I quite like the idea. I asked Frank how you got the metho into the cup and his solution was to use a can with a long bent nozzle. I thought others might be interested in this mod. I searched the site but didn't find specifically this, not to say it's not there.
I have a similar cup on my Tilley radiant heater, made from a small tin cup and a piece of tubing. I just did it the way Coleman still does it. Same for the can with a small bent tubing for filling the cup. The tubing is bent in an "S" shape so you can tip the can and pour alky without removing the globe on a lantern. Those alky cans used to come with Coleman kero lanterns. Now they have gone to a plastic squeeze bottle.
You can also use a syringe like those which are used to refill bubble jet printer cartridges. The needle can be bent easily by applying some heat. For an idea of a suitable spirit can you can look at this picture. BR, Martin
Thanks Martin, I was lucky enough to get some items yesterday. Lucky as it was with the same seller and they could combine postage. I paid $15 for these Included in the deal was this that I would like identified. If you or anyone else can give me a heads up on it, I'd appreciate it.
That hood is most likely from a Kayen AP2. It is possible it is from a Tilley and being in Austrlia that would most likely be an EX100.
Nils, thanks for that. I wish I had what was meant to be under the hood. Whilst on the hood, can you think of what Tilley models had such a hood? Even a link of where I can look for myself rather than you typing it all out - or anyone else that may know the answer.
But green mean Kayen, right? Or did Tilley also use green enamel on any of the lamps with similar hood?
Tilley normally did this 449 hood in brown or black but I have a dark blue example on an AL10. I am not aware of a green version though. It was the standard hood on EX4 and EX100 lanterns which is what Kayen AP2 copied. ::Neil::
In my short time being involved with lamps I have only ever seen people say check the font for stampings. Are there any manufacturers that stamped parts other than fonts, like hoods etc?
Lots of lamp parts have stamps or are embossed. Petromax marked just about everything for instance. Enamelled parts tend not to be but globe cages and support collars frequently are. Depends on the make and model. When it comes to Tilley and Kayen then any markings are normally on the fount and Coleman also marked most lamps there although they also marked the collars. One reason for concentrating on fount marks is that they are generally a firm indicator for that lamp. Removeable parts may be marked but are less diagnostic simply because they can be changed so they can be indicators rather than firm evidence. ::Neil::
Neil, Fantastic, thanks for that information. May I gather from your remarks about removable parts that when trying to identify a hybrid lamp you start with the fount? It's not the fount that's wrong, it's the rest of the lamp that's wrong? For instance. If you found a lamp that had an Akron fount but the rest of the lamp - stem, burner, globe, shade, generator etc, was Coleman. One should consider it an Akron lamp with the wrong removable parts rather than a Coleman with the wrong fount?
I have a Tilley EX100 with a green hood. It was found in Australia so it is possible that it is a Kayen part. It does have a Tilley burner fitted though.
I was not considering hybrid lamps at all. I don't consider them as anything other than a collection of spares. It is not a question of where to start it is merely a question of where you are likely to find information. If it is not obvious then look in the base. The point about removable parts is they can be changed around and therefore may not be the best indicator for model or age. For instance you can fit a 1950s Tilley pump in a brand new lantern. In the same way you might find a 1920s part in a late 1930s Tilley. So these parts are indicators which we don't ignore but are not always the parts that determine model and age. ::Neil::
