I recently aquired a Bialaddin 310 in very nice condition with a chrome tank. When under pressure there was paraffin seepage around the base. With the help of a fellow lamper we've traced the leak to a tiny hairline split on the base, about 1cm long. Looking at fixing options of either 1)silver solder (although the chrome could get damaged by the blowtorch) or 2) "liquid metal" such as loctite, 3)"instant fuel tank repair putty" or the most expensive option of 4)tank sealant. If I use option 1) I could perhaps hide any surface damage with a brass name plate? all advice gratefully received !
Bill, the only way to handle "stress cracks" (or capillary cracks) is to drill a tiny hole to each of the ends of the crack. This will keep the crack from getting bigger. Then a firm tin soldering will seal it. All the other ideas do not work / are not durable. But when you have done the one crack, another one will appear most likely. They like to show up in herds... Erik
Depending on where the hairline crack is, you can use POR 15 - but it is expensive; and you have to do it properly. Tony
Thanks for the replies. It's a difficult one to solve as it literally is a hairline crack and you almost need a magnifying glass to see it. because of its size I was wondering wether solder will actually go into it. I understand why drilling a hole at each end of the crack will stop it spreading but will it also enhance the problem at the same time? As the lamp is only going to be used outdoors I was wondering if it was easier just to "put up with it"? I also have a 300x tank which I could use as an alternative although the filler cap is the larger one and sites virtually next door to one of the cage "legs" which may make refuelling awkward (although I haven't tried it yet) The split is also right on the lip of the base as opposed to the main body of the tank; I can only presume that the lamp may have been dropped at one point causing the split? I may well try a full tank and see what the actual seepage rate is and decide from there how to go about a repair.
I used POR 15 on one of my Coleman L-220 slant generator lanterns and it worked great. It isn't cheap but if you take your time and follow the directions it will work. Remember, TAKE YOUR TIME USING IT! Don't try to hurry the process.
I have one Optimus 200 lantern from 30's/40's and it has a hairline split on tank. I haven't had time to repair it but I plan to try soldering. I would believe that when tank is heated properly with blow torch the solder will fill the crack nicely. I plan to use solder that contains flux to ease up penetration of solder.
Using Por15 is expensive for just 1 lamp, even a for Bialaddin . I intend to gather 5-8 lamps I would like to use because some are fun and some are decorative with light in the globe. Por15 is only possible for me to get for a gasolinetank ment for app. 13 gallons and such a portion Por15 cost app. 70 euros. The Por15 is flexible and pronounced to be the best way to protect a tank. After use of Por15 it is not possible to see it is there at all, unless you shine some ligt Down the tank. I would think twice drilling holes and solder from the outside, if the lamp is a dear object and not just a user + Erik Leger seems to be right in stresscracks comes in larger numbers when they start. That is confirmed when I look at the lamps I have with stresscracks. My advice is to take contact to other lampers with same problem, share a beer and a bottle of Por15. That way it will be economic and beside a great time, you get a lamp with no signs at all on the outside + it is ready for more cracks to come. A Optimus 200 from the war is a pretty nice lamp btw Afterburner. Claus C
You can get a POR15 starter kit here: POR15 Starter Kit I find this is quite a good way of buying it as there is enough to do 2-3 lamps and the stuff doesn't keep so there is not much point buying larger quantities unless you have a lot of lamps to do. It will certainly seal up the crack. I prefer solder repairs where possible as the thing I don't like about POR15 is it is an irreversible process. Solder can always be re-done. But of course you will damage the appearance of the tank if you solder it on the outside. The solder doesn't need to go into the crack, provided the crack is covered with solder on the outside. Stress cracks on Bialaddins seem to be confined to the base rim, so I don't think there is any need to drill it.
