Hello everyone, Thought I would share a method used in treating Iron and Steel items to remove rust... Molases! Using a ratio of 1 part Molases to 9 parts water, the metal object to be cleaned should be COMPLETELY SUBMERGED in this solution for a period of days, depending on the amount and thickness of the rust to be removed. Make sure that no portion of the object is exposed to air or sticking out of the solution - take into account evaporation of the solution & keep at least 3cm of coverage over the item. Each day, remove the item from the solution and rinse under warm water, gently scrubbing with a non-abrasive brush, like a toothbrush, to remove the ink-like Black residue that occurs as the Iron Oxide is dissolved. Repeat this daily washing untill the object is completely clean of rust. This process will eventually remove all traces of rust from an object - while causing no harm to the metal itself. Rusty painted objects will have the rust removed, while leaving the painted surfaces unharmed. The images show a 1920's Coleman Quick Lite lampshade holder before and after 117 hours of treatment. It is VERY IMPORTANT to preserve the surface of the cleaned item immediatly, as the rust process will begin within hours. I have heard that a clear Laquer can be used to seal and protect metal surfaces, but I prefer to lightly oil items after the molases treatment, as this is less permanent and also easily reversable. PLEASE, give this a try FIRST on rusty things, such as old rusty tin cans, nails, bolts, etc. before attempting to clean lamp parts. I could not believe how well this method works! Chris W - Winnipeg, Canada
Hello Chris, that's a good tip! Here is another one, to clean brass and copper, (this may also work on other alloys), get the cheapest clear lemonade from the supermarket. Find a plastic container which has a snap on lid, put in the items which need cleaning, then pour in enough lemonade to cover them. Put on the lid and leave for 24 hours, then take out the items and give them a clean with cold water, most of the muck will have gone, but the process can be repeated if required.
Interesting methods there....For brass/copper I have used cheap vinegar (value supermarket stuff) and submerged parts in a container overnight, great for cleaning up Tilley galleries. I used this method to fettle up my wall lamp which had been hacked into an electric lamp many years ago. Credit for the hard work goes to a fellow collector who soldered in a new base on the tank for me after the original had been cut open The vinegar bath gets to all the places inaccessible for polishing up and it leaves a nice, not too bright, appearance after a good wash and light rub with wire wool. I do need to get the correct XN cock for this lamp to make it correct as far as I am aware. Regards David
Hello David, yes, vinegar works well too, and another point about all 3 of the cleaning methods which are mentioned here, there is no problem with the disposal of the used cleaning substance. The stronger chemical cleaners are harmful. Jeff.
Hello Jeff & David, There are only 2 drawbacks to using Molasses: 1) This stuff can get Very stinky after a few days, as the solution will start to ferment. The fermentation has no effect on the cleaning process. Best to do your cleaning in a well ventilated area, such as the basement or garage. 2) It is very important to make sure the item being cleaned is completely submerged in the solution - there is a reaction at the point at the very surface of the solution - if an item is protruding, the point at which it leaves the solution and meets the air will be chemically etched and possibly pitted. There are websites such as one operated by a group of Austrailian Land Rover enthusiasts, who swear by Molasses - to clean gas tanks, engine blocks, and other heavily rusted parts! I have used this method successfuly on several occasions now, and find that it is the least damaging to objects and also environmentaly friendly. I just can't bring myself to take a wire brush or other abrasive method to a lantern. It is quite easy to "love something to death", and I'm a firm believer in the "less is more" methods of conservation. I have gone through the period of just wiping off the dust from lanterns, to spit-polishing them, to borderline sterility - now I carefully plan out each restoration with a clear outcome in mind. this is usually dependant on the age and rarity of the lantern. Taking ones time & thinking about the result has left me very satisfied with the results.
Hello Chris, I know a fellow in Australia who swears by the molasses method and he should know, as he has been using it on lamps and engine parts etcetera since the end of WW2.
Fantastic! I use whatever stuff they sell at the local supermarket - it doesn't seem to matter what form of molasses you use. I understand some people use the type for livestock feed. Probably better for large batches of solution. An elderly friend of mine scoffed at the idea, so he put his sledgehammer in a bucket of solution, and a couple of days later, it looked brand new! I've even had an inquiry by the former head of archaeology at the provincial museum regarding this technique. It's a good feeling to pass on somthing you learn to others.
