Quite the transformation. What steps did you take to get the tank to this level of shine? Wish my 300x was this nice but it wee's on itself from a leak somewhere on the tank rim.
Cigarman, I've used the POR15 tank sealing kit (3 part - 2 cleaners & 1 sealer) with success on mine that was leaking from the rim (stress cracks). Tomi - very shiny!
Hi Expat, Can you describe the process please? . eg. What is this stuff and did you apply from inside or applied to outside? I have a Tilley short-handled pork pie with a weep around one of the stems.
Hi, I think Gneiss has put up a how-to from memory, however: http://www.amazon.co.uk/por-15-fuel-petrol-sealant/dp/B000H9K4JQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1440970269&sr=8-2&keywords=por+tank+sealer The good news is that the kit comes with instructions! Strip the lamp first! First clean out the tank with Marine Clean (that's the old name for the initial cleaner). You dilute it as per instructions and give the insides a good clean. It may react with the brass though so I cleaned the insides with Jizer first (Jizer or Gunk is ok), rinsed with water well(!) and then poured in the Marine Clean and gave if a good agitation before leaving it soak (I kept the exposure time down to a minimum ~10 mins). Empty (down the drain with plenty of water!) and rinse well (at least 3 times with tap water). Then pour in the second cleaner (Metal Prep) and gave it a good cleaning (again I kept the exposure time down as it's acidic and the tank was already pretty clean). Empty (this one is re-usable so have an old coke bottle handy!) and rinse well (at least 3 times) with cold water. Dry the tank - no water is permitted to be in the tank for the next bit! I sped up the drying time by using neat alcohol to absorb the water, let that dry and then rinsed the tank with panel wipe (must not be the so-called environmentally friendly version but the proper flammable type). Empty and let dry (don't be tempted to use applied heat to speed up the drying...) Next place tank on newspaper and pour in (using a funnel!) enough sealer to thinly cover the base of the tank. Ensure that any spills are mopped up with a damp cloth/rag immediately. Coat the inside of the tank slowly by turning the tank. I there is insufficient sealer, add a little more at this point. If you have added too much, tip some out (use an old yoghurt pot for the emptyings!) Return after an hour and repeat the turning of the tank. Do this until the sides and base are covered evenly. (I turned it again after four hours). Leave to stand for at least 4 days (I left mine for 2 weeks to cure. HTH!
I use an aquarium air pump to introduce a gentle air flow through the tanks when curing. Have to wait until the resin has hardened first or the tube can get welded to the tank. 4 days is enough though. I have done lots of tanks and had them running after the fourth day. Wiping any spills is very important because this stuf sets like concrete and is very difficult to remove once cured. ::Neil::
I hope I could get more than one lamp repaired with that POR-15 kit. Seems pretty pricey so I'm assuming that its meant for larger gas tanks. The other thing I keep seeing mentioned is Jizer. That's a darn peculiar name for a product of any sort. What is this stuff? Degreaser of some sort?
You can do maybe 4 to 6 lamps with one small can. It does not keep well though so you have to have all the tanks ready and prepped to be done in one session. I never buy the bigger cans because most is wasted. I buy maybe three cans at a time so I always have some around and then when I have a need for it I hunt around for extras that can be added to the work list. ::Neil::
Cigarman, Gunk & Jizer are degreasers used for vehicle engines etc - useful for removal of tar etc. The POR 15 kit is for an automotive fuel tank so is larger than required(!) however, I have done three lamp tanks and one stove and re-sealed the can... My first attempt I ended up with far too much in the tank but left it in anyway (and left it to cure for much longer - better safe than sorry!)
Tomi, this looks fantastic, and to look at the original pics and then compare them. I am very new to this world, but will say now, it looks fantastic. How much time have you spent on it to get it to where it is?
Sandblasting is the easiest way to remove old enamel (porcelain). This is how it's professionally done at IPE (Independence Porcelain Enamel). Of course after that you need to have the hood re-enammeled (new porcelain finish). I know of no heat resistant paint that will give you a permanent gloss finish in the color of your choice. I've had many vents done by Jeff at IPE and they come out like new. He's in the US, but there are usually local (to you) enamel shops that can do this work. Jeff charges about 25 - 40 USD per vent depending on size, color and how many colors. Bialaddin vent before... Bialaddin after (I changed the color)... Dan
Hopefully, wherever Tomi lives (Tornio? - never heard of it) is better in this respect than the UK where I know of no companies prepared to carry out re-enamelling of lamp hoods. I've been searching on-and-off for around 10 years... Great job on your own hood, by the way...
David - there is a UK member of The Coleman Collect Forum that has had many vents redone by someone in England....they have all turned out superb, I will try to find out more on this. Cheers Peter
