Hi I am a relatively new collector, having stumbled onto pressure lamps after fiddling about with a svea123r and a optimus 111b spirit stoves. I have recently located a Primus heater 1010 Marked AN on the base (1949?)which is in remarkably good condition. I have stripped it down and found that the nipple is clogged up (probably with the broken pricker wire) and it is missing one of the curved air tubes (p/N 6171) I have ordered some new pump and filler cap parts via Base Camp (thanks Mike)but as yet I have not been able to source a new Nipple or Pricker (parts number 6145 and 6131). In addition to the mising air tube the stoves "riser" (which contains the cleaning rod and pricker as well as having the nipple screwed into it, is slightly butchered and may need replacing. Can anyone assist me in locating the nipple and pricker and/or the airtube and riser. I have limited "fettling" skills and I maybe able to manufacture the irtube. But I am stumped as to the nipple and pricker. Thanks .... Woolbay
Hi Woolbay and welcome to the forum. I'm pretty sure Base Camp have the jet (sounds a bit more pc than nipple) and needle. At least they did recently. Otherwise you could try Fogas in Stockholm, Sweden. They might have the air tube as well. The riser as you call it is probably not a part you can easily find.
Just an update. I've managed to get the heater to work ... I replaced all the washers with new ones made from a gasket material cleaned the "jet" using compressed air. Installed a new leather pump washer I used a sawn off 5.56mm NATO cartridge as a replacement airtube. Could not get the NRV out of the pump tube, even using a tyre lever with a 5mm groove, as per the tool described in a posted fettle. So I used a thin wire to ensure that the NRV was activating and not stuck. A single prime, closed the airvalve and a few pumps and it lit first time .. fantastic. Had it running for over an hour with a beautiful cherry glow and I was surprised by the amount of heat. Looked a little silly as it is 37C (100F) at the moment. I will now wait for the replacement parts from FOGAS. whilst I wait I will clean and polish the reflector and handle and buff the font. Big thank you to all the contributors to the fettle posts that I devoured prior to lighting up. I've learnt how to make heat proof washers, free up NRV valves, make (and purchase) specialist tools. Between this site, CCS and BBL I've got enough knowledge to have a go at removing the pump tube to free up the NRV as well as being able to silver solder the tube back in. I hope to post some photos shortly. regards Paul (Woolbay)
Good job on the heater. I've always been pleased with the amount of heat they put out (more useful over here at the moment ). Any chance of some close up photos of the burner? What is the relector made of? It's hard to tell from the photo, but my guess would be aluminium. The pump tube should only be lead soldered in place, not silver soldered.
Thanks Nils I'll take some more photos soon as I have dismantled the heater to start the cleaning and installation of the replacement jet/pricker/airtube that are on the way from Fogas. I am not sure what the reflector is made from. What I do know is that the plating (nickel/chrome?) is extremely shiny and in great shape for a 50 year old. regards Paul
If the reflector is plated (nickel), then is will be brass. Primus had three different reflector options. Polished aluminium, nickel plated brass and polished copper. The aluminium was the cheapest, so that's what turns up the most. I actually bought a 1010 from SA a few years ago and it was with a nickel plated reflector, so maybe the Australian importer only brought in that version.
Nils photo of the burner note the sawn of rifle cartridge substituing for the missing airtube. The reflector is definetly not steel based (non-magnetic)
Thanks for that Paul. Just a couple of comments. The ring that is sitting just above the air tubes is upside down. The wire net mantle is supposed to sit around the inner ring and the two dents on the outer ring rest on the air tubes. I can see that the vapouriser tube is rather bent. Maybe it can be straightened if it is annealed before and after bending. It's a good use of a 5.56 cartridge case. From what I can see in the first photo of it, it looks like an old blank.
Thanks Nils I just assembled the burner from the storage box for the photo. I was unsure about the ring position, the 5.56 cartridge doesn't really allow the ring to sit properly so I will await the replacement airtube. Yes there is a disinct lean to the left for the burner. I aim to heat it up and gently bend it back, whilst holding it in a vice. As I understand the annealling process, I neeed to heat it up and slowly cool it to remove the metal working stresses (?) Yes your right re the blank cartridge. We were at a desert camp site a few years back and came across thousands of them from a Army Reserve "war Game" my then 10 y.o. son was in raptures. regards Paul
I'm definitely no expert (electronics is my game), but from what I remember you anneal brass by cooling quickly. i.e. quenching in water. Can someone who actually knows please comment. I was pretty exited too many (many) years ago when I was on a cadet camp at Shoalwater Bay and found hundreds of these M16 blanks. The icing on the cake though was that I also found a complete magazine.
Do that and you will break it. Brass does not behave like steel. You anneal brass by heating to dull red and quenching in cold water. Brass will not bend hot. The stuff goes "hot short" so when heated it is likely to break. You must bend brass cold but every time you bend you introduce stress and it must be annealed before bending again. ::Neil::
Hmmmm? OK brass rod. What kind of brass rod? Brazing rods look like regular brass but they ain't and they will hot bend. Trouble here is brass is not really a good description of this alloy of zinc and copper. There are many variables with different ratios of metals and some have added stuff to create a different alloy for a specific purpose. I do know that the stuff used in lamps for founts and things like generators and burner castings will go hot short and will require annealing before cold bending. ::Neil::
Neil your advice is invaluable ... thank you the rod is a piece of solid brass approx 1/2" in diamater 50cm in length of unknown origin and use. I will wait until my brass handling skills are up to scratch before attempting to bend the burner. regards Paul
more photos Fitted FOGAS jet, pricker and airtube Vapouriser bent and annealed as per the above advise. A quick pre-heat and away she goes
Good stuff Paul. You could probably pump it some more as you can get the flames to reach the bottom of the mesh.
Very Kool. Nice to see it working. Always gives me a lift to see another old museum piece with life breathed into it again. This fettling game gets easier as you build experience so the next one will be much less of a problem. ::Neil::
