Do people remove the Vitreous Enamel, i cant get this stuff off and was told shot blasting will damage the top , personally id like to remove it and re enamel just because it looks so tired, 1 of my lids is ok but the other is all rusty at the top so would be nice to revive, so was curious to what others have done .. I think it was Dave? who said to leave it but I only want to do this is its the only option or can you paint rite over the top of it
Hi, the cost to re-enamel would be expensive ,maybe worth waiting for a better hood to appear,what lamp does the hood fit? I find that I'm more a fan of leaving it, warts and all, giving it a service and using a lamp
Some juvelcrafters makes and repairs products made from the "Cloisonné"-technic. This is normally brass-vases with a rised pattern of smaller or bigger fields where they smelt glass in the small fields of different colours and then creating different patterns as flowers, butterflys etc. If you have a hood with missing enamel in example 1X1 cm - 2X2 cm then such a jewelcrafter can fill the missing enamel on your hood with no problem. But it will be possible to see it. In the meantime it is the most gentle way you can save a origin hood if it is a collectible lamp. These jewelcrafters is getting more and more easy to find, while the owens for this technic is getting cheaper and cheaper. Often they are at the hobby-stage and makes stuff for the local amusement park, Wally World or something like that. The only other way is a complete re-enameling and using the old hood, they dont remove the former enameling - they just throw on a new layer and the re will be some bulges in the re-enameled top. So its a choise between plaque or cholera. Look "Cloisonné" up on the google-net and you will probably find something there. Claus C
ok thanks guys appreciate the info.. was hopeing it would be easy to remove with shot blasting or something but the finishers said no chance lol.. original it wil stay then.. cheers..:-)
Kurust rust remover did a great job in removing the enamel - metal bond from a tilley hood... Not on purpose I hasten to add!
I have some of that I'll try.. I don't no if there was the use of difrent enamels but this stuff is like that stoved glass stuff.. it's like trying to dissolve a glass window .. I put some on just to try but I doubt itl do anything but nothing to loose .:-)
I doubt Kurust would attack vitreous enamel which is glass and the only acid I'm aware of that would affect that is hydrofluoric acid - very nasty stuff indeed and not a constituent of anything an ordinary person could get hold of. I suspect the phosphoric acid in Kurust would attack the exposed rust layer between the metal and the vitreous enamel thus loosening it in places...
That makes sense. To be honest, I haven't looked into the chemistry of vitreous enamel. I have, however, had a good education on what hydrofluoric acid can do...
I believe that what you call vitreous enamel, is what we call porcelain, basically a glass finish. I've had ventilators refinished by Jeff at IPE . He "media blasts" the old finish off and applies a porcelain paint which is then baked on at 1600 deg F. I can't see how sand/bead can damage the heavy steel ventilator, especially since the porcelain goes on very thick and easily covers any minor pits created by the blasting. Just a thought. Dan
I saw a particularly unpleasant safety film where someone "melted" their entire hand just in the fumes... It looked for all the world like melted wax... There have been cases of severe burns after touching certain rubbers that have been overheated and released this acid. Not something anyone in their right mind would want to mess with.
Hydroflouric acid is apparently used in a household rust stain remover, don't know if it's Used in kurust. We used to clean greenhouses with it years ago,must have been pretty well diluted because it can cause an etched effect on glass and too much and your greenhouse would be a very drafty Place
Yup, if you get concentrated hydrofluoric acid on your skin, it's a very, very bad thing... My grandad used to work in ICI with it - even the carboys that they used to store it in suffered! Really nasty & reactive stuff.
Im currently looking into re enamel some of my caps for radius and primus lanterns as they have started to chip of. Im thinking of doing a DIY job. Seen some tips on google how to remove the old enamel, and think i got the color somwhat right on the powder. //Fjellot
I wonder if you could remove the enamel by heating the top in a kiln and then quenching it in a bucket of water. I imagine the thermal shock would dislodge or loosen a lot of the enamel. Attempt at your own risk etc.
I read on the internet someone that had made a paste of tartar (what is that) and salt. Put that on the top, Then burnt it and dropped it in a bucket of water.
Tarter - what builds up around your teeth; a white powder with culinary uses; an ethnic race living in Russia and the Ukraine. Vitreous enameling is a specialist coating, so if it can be put on, it can be taken off, but that means either specialist work, or chipping away with a chisel and hammer, and as it is basically glass - beware. Plunging highly heated metal coatings into cold water is very bad news. Do not do this.
okay here is the "hot set up" for removing vitreous enamel-CAVEAT~~~~ you will probaly hurt your self~~ I do this in my workshop to prepare nasty enameled vents for nickle plating. Sodium Hydroxide or "lye" s which can be purchased as a drain cleaner in pure crystal form at most hardware stores. it will dissolve glass or vitreous enamel. The trick is you have to get it hot enough to melt thats 318C or 604 F. put your vent in it for about 15 minutes and take the vent out and the enamel will be gone. Use as much protective gear as you have, leather ( not plastic) gloves --perhaps a welder leather apron ( not fabric or plastic)-and EYE PROTECTION do you best to not splash as if it gets on you--it will burn to the bone-- its both hot and extremely caustic ~~~~
Hi fellas, over the years i have had a number of hoods sandblaser at a local powdercoater, they do sand blasting, then i find good high quality heat proof paint of a color that is suitable to me, then spray it a couple of times, then slow bake in the wife's oven, the post i put on here with the picture of the Primus 1001 looking for a glass suplier has just had the hood sandblasted and heat proof paint applied and baked
