Looking at Flivvers Quicklite hanging in the 1920's camp got me thinking about what I could make to hang my Bialaddin 305 from when camping, has anyone got any info, close ups ideas / specs for lamp stands?
Iwoo: Here are better pictures of it, It's in two pieces for transport, The bottom is sleeved so the top can be used as a slide hammer to pound it into the ground without having to bring a hammer.( had a welder buddy do that for me) Bought it at the hardware store and had it modified for my use. I believed it was intended to be a plant hanger or patio lantern hanger. It is very stout, won't bend even when I tested it to 25 pounds. Mike...
Hi, there are relatively cheap stands for stage lighting (aluminum) you can get on ebay. Starting with a simple stand going on to the "better" ones you can crank up and so on. Search ebay for stage lighting. The good Swiss Army MASH stands for infusions work well but the price went up unbelievably. They were sold at Swiss army surplus stores for a short time only. Erik
Hi all: Erik brought up a good point. There are many light weight collapsing/folding stands for portable lighting available, some made by Coleman and others specifically for camping lanterns. I have tried a number of these in the past. The trouble I have had with them is that they either use a tripod base or require guy wires which in my case I end up tripping over or have moving parts that may and do break. I have had the tripod variety blow over. Also they require much more space because of their footprint. The tripod type requires fairly level ground. They also make the chain and bracket type for use with a tree or pole. I have found it hard sometimes to find a tree or pole where you want them. It was a combination of these reasons plus the need to find a lamp hanger that would not look out of place with my 1920's camp that led me to the shepherds crook. I have used my modified shepherds crook hanger for years and like it a lot for ease of set up and ability to put it where I need it. Plus as an added bonus, they are not expensive. (Caution: there are some very flimsy shepherds crooks for sale, hold out for a sturdy one that will not bend unduly with the load you require.) Mike..
With respect to the Coleman telescoping collapsible stand. They work well BUT, you have to stake them down through the holes provided in the tip of the feet. Aluminum gutter spikes work well for this. The wimpy stakes provided in the kit are best left at home. Bob
Thanks Flivver, what is the length of the top and bottom pieces and how far does the top rod socket into the bottom rod, and what is the diameter of the rod.
Hi iwoo: Each half is 47 inches. The top shaft penetrates the sleeve 11 inches. The rod diameter is 0.476 inches and sleeve diameter is 0.715 inches. Make sure the inside diameter of the sleeve is close to that of the rod to insure a vertical pole with little lateral movement. I would make the upper section penetrate the sleeve a little more than the 11 inches that I had done, 15 inches would do nicely. If you do so, adjust length of rods to ensure they remain equal, if that is your wish. See added collar to top of sleeve for strength. Mike...
Right update time, I got some 0.5 inch rebar (6 meter length)and I tried to heat it up in my wood burner but I cannot get it hot enough, next plan is to get some coke and a blower and get it red hot!!! has anyone got any advice for home black smithing? Pic of wood burner
Right more progress, I managed to conjure a forge up using charcoal and an air blower (like you do!!!! after some good ideas from YouTube) and bent my crook
I have made the top half socket into the bottom by 15" as recommended by Flivver, My crook part half is 52" tall from the ground to its highest point, what length will I have to cut my bottom half?
Iwoo: I made the top and bottom equal length. This length can be determined by the overall height you wish it to be once set in the ground. Remember you lose the distance the top penetrates the sleeve and the distance the bottom penetrates the ground. Mike...
