The control mechanisms on this 242B were completely seized when I acquired it. I soaked it in penetrating oil and managed to get the control valve out and loosened up the needle operating mechanism and packing nut. But I can’t get the needle operating mechanism out to clean properly. I thought it would pull out but don’t want to break something if I am wrong. Can someone explain how it comes apart? Or point me to a previous thread. Thanks
looking at your photo all is well if gland nut is undone its the graphite gland packing gone hard just have to twist and pull lever ,work on it till it comes out. Bob
Thanks Bob / Tony. I thought so but didn’t want to apply any more pressure until I had confirmation force was right.
You can apply a little heat to the casting where the graphite is. This will soften the packing and may make removal easier. Have to be careful here because it is all too easy to shear off the wire but if the wire rotates then it is probably OK and you just pull once the packing nut is unscrewed. ::Neil::
Me too (from a soggy Aberdeenshire) But I've still never used a 'Smiley'! Had no phone or internet connection since Thursday evening so making the most of a temporary line repair.
Neil's description is absolutely correct. However, if the eccentric crank is not leaking I recommend leaving it alone. The end of the wire you can't see is crimped to make a crank to raise and lower the eccentric block which in turn moves the pricker needle up and down in the generator. Since the end of the wire is crimped it is bigger than the hole in the packing and will not pull out through the packing without enlarging the hole. On older Colemans that packing is usually firmly attached to the sides of the hole. When you pull the wire out most times you'll destroy the packing. If it didn't leak before, it will afterwards. So, if it doesn't leak, leave it alone. If it does leak you can apply some gentle heat from a propane torch to the side of the valve to soften the packing then tighten the nut until the packing cools. You may then need to back off the nut a bit to get the wire to turn. If it still leaks you can repack it by cutting small pieces of graphite packing from the hardware store dumping it into the valve below the nut then tightening the nut. You might have to repeat the process a couple of time but I have successfully renewed the eccentric wire packing this way several times. I posted some pic of this process on the Coleman collecter's forum, I'll try to dig up a link. Found the link, http://www.colemancollectorsforum.com/post/packing-tip-cleaner-7092152?pid=1284423347 Several ways to skin the cat discussed.
Sounds good to me Reese never tried that 'Gland heating/softening' approach, will try it when the need arises 8) Been a bit soggy down my way too (South East Kent) my garden a few days ago, only 4" short of my air bricks
Sorry Ray, but I don't get what you're trying to say here... Did you perhaps mess up the picture in the previous post, but then actually managed to solve it?
Hi Christer If it's the right way up then yes, it would seem I've corrected it Cheers Christer knew you wouldn't be far away
Thanks gentlemen for all the advice, recommendations and comments. I now have a much better understanding of what I am dealing with. As it was jammed before I dismantled the cock I don't know if the gland will leak or not. So at this stage I will take Reese's advice and try to rejuvenate the packing before attempting a rebuild (nothing to loose). Thanks Again
