Hi Guys, I really hope the wise and knowledgeable on here can help me out?! Dads Lamp. I first met it back in 1975 when I was 10! The hisss still takes me back to the Rhodesian outback by lake kariba, trying to fish and being plagued by moths the size of small Bats. The Lamp dates back further than that though. Dad worked for the Rhodesia and Nayasaland Government, He was issued with his lamp circa 1959?-1960? but he may not of had in new. At the bottom edge is their stamp, RNG. Basically Dad nicked it when he left! in 1963 it returned with Dad to the UK, But was taken Back to Africa in 1970, then Returned again to the UK in 1980's . I took possession of the lamp when I moved onto a boat in the late 1990's. It was for a long while my primary source of light and often heat! Life changed and I got married and moved to Terra Firma, later I moved to Spain and took the lamp with me. 10 Years later in 2010 again the lamp found it's way back home. Life has changed again and I have bought another boat, out came the lamp She is clearly a Guardsman, still there is the insect shield! a stamp on her underside is 4580A? Does that mean anything? Other markings are RFT, They are Dads initials! Tilley England is there with an Owl between the two words. But.... I think her life is now over Pardon by terminology, the silver tank has coming out the top a long rod with a tap for adjusting fuel flow. This whole rod/tap assembly lifts up and down in to and out the tank? It can not be full removed. Is it fixable and are there any professional restoration folk out there? Thanks in anticipation with any information you can help with. Oly
That is one well travelled lamp. I think it was probably made in April - 4, 1958 - 58. All looks good apart from the last photo. Can not tell if its just the adjusting ring missing or more?
Look for a second hand tank on a certain auction site and any other spares you may need. Have reconditioned many of these so no need to write it off. Clive.
Thanks Clive, But it's the Tank that has got Dad's Initials scratched into it. The tank "is" the lamp?! So you don't think it's fixable? Sorry to keep asking questions Oly
What is causing the confusion, is what is the hole in the top of the tank like? There should be a fixed thread for the tube part to screw into, all is not lost!!!
Thanks Guys, Here, these pics may help? Can't see any threads, that is the strange thing, I do not understand ( unless they are welded in place before the tank is constructed and the weld has broken? ) how the assembly is supposed to be held firm? Oly
You may be able to solder that part. I have atleast one Guardsman where this has been done, so apparently this part might come loose in some cases. Or perhaps the earlier ones, like the one I show below, actually had a visible soldering there from the factory? Either way, I think you should be able to fix yours in that way.
Thanks. I shall start my search for a local guy with skills in the soldering department! Unless anybody knows of any restoration firms I can send her too? Oly
I think that it was originally a "compression joint" assembled before the base of the tank was fitted. No reason why it cannot be soldered as shown, as you stated it is "The Lamp".
Hi Oly, If you compare you pic and the one Christer has posted you will see that the solder joint on your picture has failed, the vapouriser threads are only really visible when dismantled?... ...Look at Christer's close up, you'll be able to see that the long vapouriser tube screws into a knurled sleeve?.. ...This in turn screws into the threaded insert soldered to the Fount; that's the part which has come adrift, but because it's all still assembled it's hard to make out? ...Don't worry, the people on here won't be fazed by a job like this and will want to help you get your lamp up and running! Great history to it!..
Agree 100% that this tank has to be fixed or the main value of the lamp is gone. The solder repair is quite trivial but it does need the parts below the control cock to be separated. The knurled ring is what has parted company from the tank. Now it is probably stuck fast to the control valve assembly. It has to be released without causing damage and that will likely need soaking in penetrating oil, perhaps some heat, and very gentle treatment. Dont grab it in a vice without protection from scoring. There is nothing that can fix it once it's been "graunched". Graunching is permanent - always. If the tank joint has been broken it is likely to be very stuck. Some heavy handed effort to unscrew the control cock broke the tank soldering before unscrewing was possible. A good challenge here but it should be quite possible to fix it as new. Best wishes for success.
From what is possible to see in the gallery it looks like also other 1950-54 year versions have the same soldering I show above on mine from that same period. Later ones, like Oly's here, just seem to have the press fitting. Or atleast not any visible soldering. Hopefully it should still be possible to solder it in place. As long as the slit isn't too wide, there shouldn't be any problems. And it appears to be allright from the pics.
Great history to that lamp! It should be readily fixed by some good soldering. Have a look at the website of "The Base Camp" (UK) and you will find a diagram of the various components of the Tilley. My advice would be to take it all apart and give the tank a good clean before soldering the appropriate part back on the tank. A reasonably skilled solderer should fix that quite easily. Good luck! Tony
I wonder if someone tried to solder up a leak at that seam and succeeded only in making it a whole lot worse? I can solder copper tubing but I've never tried it on a lamp tank - I reckon I'd give it a go with that repair, though...
As it's on the top of the tank it should be easy enough to do with a creme brulle torch and decent flux and solder. Flux the join well before heating and suspend the tank from the vapouriser so you get a good join. Just remember to keep any other soldered joints cool...
That one in my close-up was already soldered when I got it. And I think it is made from the factory. As I said above, it looks like the other 1950-54 year versions in the gallery also has this little soldering there. The later (like Oly's) doesn't. Unfortunately there aren't too many detail pictures in the gallery, but in some you might spot what seems to be the same soldering as seen on mine. E.g. on Davids lantern [url=http://0flo.com/index.php?threads/7319
Yes, I see what you were saying, thanks for your patience ; it's a factory solder, not a repair as I had thought.. ... The reason I was ferreting away was to do with the fact that the fount is plated, so I was going to ask how much heat could it stand before quite noticeable peeling/flaking occurred?... ... If it had been the brass under a paint/ laquer then Bob's your Uncle... ...Any one had a go at one of these???
I have de- and resoldered pumptubes from nickel plated tanks, and it is no problems with flaking, or such. Mind you! I have never soldered a speculum plated thing like these Tilleys, so I can't say anything on how it will behave when heated. But I doubt it would be any major difference from regular nickel plating in that aspect. I like to use lead free solder with some silver in it since it give a better match to the shiny nickel. Electrical solder, and those, give a dull grey finish. It doesn't really match the plating on our apparatus. I think Castolin 157 is a nice solder for this.
Ah, great detailing on the type of solder to use, I probably would have just grabbed what ever I had to hand?.. ..( Sorry, this is turning into a Fettle Hijack)...Errm, if you would just let me have 2 more question, what sort of blowtorch do you use an have you got a little photo of it please???.. ...
I have a 264 on the shelf that has been soldered before, Not a pretty sight as the metal cage was all distorted due to the bodge job made of soldering it and then clamping it down under the screwed washer. Not a problem with this lamp but it needs to be neatly done as it will be visible. Clive.
Actually I use a couple of differently sized electrical heating guns for this. And also some regular electrical soldering irons, depending on which type of job it is. But I have many blowtorches too, and I have tested with some of them. They work fair enough, but it's more convenient with electrickery of course...
wow, you guys have been brilliant. I got home and had a little fettle, she came apart real easy now just need to find a skilled guy who can solder. Just in case anyone is interested, this link is to the original location of the Lamp! Dad is on the left @ 6:55 and centre @ 7:03. The tent in the background also has the RNG logo, ( Rhodesia and Nayasaland Goverment) What a shame the pressure lamp @ 7:10 isn't mine! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eTEBr5829u8 Thanks again and I will certainly let you know how I get on. Oly
Great stuff, Oly! With your father, and all. All this history make your lantern worthy of a serious restoration. Indeed! Then you wouldn't have had any troubles in getting it working since it's a Primus. I would say a 1020 (even if I guess neither 1019 nor 1320 can be excluded just by the footage).
Ah!!! Different approach! Nice one.. TBH i would prob use the same set up i use for Lead Welding? Or maybe one of those small Butane handheld things... OLY ; Wow ! Great pics!!!..
Shouldnt there be a mark "För Sprit" placed just under the pump-handle if it was a 1320 ? I dont see that Claus C
They can fall off, and sometimes they are soldered in place a bit to the side. That doesn't matter. When in doubt, you should always assume it to be the most likely, and that's the 1020. An alcohol version would be highly unlikely.
I did see that, just once, very clumsy work too - I thought it was homemade but couldnt see why anyone would bother to solder back a fallen of tag Claus C
