Have just stripped down this lamp purchased this morning, It is a silver tank model which i am thinking of repainting Nato Green. As this is only my second one i have stripped down to completely overhaul i cannot remember if it only has one Nrv in the pump tube as opposed to the Tilley which has a second below the control valve and is the pick up tube is fixed to the valve body. Thank,s Clive.
Have been on Youtube so i have partly answered my questions apart from my lamp has a different attachment where the pick up tube fits to the valve, looks like a knurled Screw that can be removed and not just a pipe soldered in. Clive.
They vary. Some fuel tubes are soldered to the valve block and some a screw on fitting. Either way it is not actually a valve but just a pricker operator. There is no shut off valve in a Vapalux/Bialaddin so the only NRV is in the pump tube. ::Neil::
Thank,s Have sent for a set of parts to replace all rubber items and have noted there is only one Nrv rubber. It just looks as though it unscrews. Have you any suggestions as to what i can clean the frame with, eg a formula to dip the whole frame in to bring it back to a nice clean finish. It looks like a alloy or monkey metal of some kind. Regards, Clive.
Tried soap and water , then a mix of Cream of Tatar, then citric acid. Not much change but did degrease so it has cleaned up nice by rubbing it with worn emery. They are not a very good quality casting anyway but its probably as good as it can get now. Clive.
Autosol polish and an old t-shirt! (Or cheat and get a Dremel with a buffing/polishing thingy.) Autosol is great for brass, chrome and alloy
I have the best results with Autosol Marine Shine Stainless Steel polish in the blue and black tube. It seems to contain more active ingredients and grit than the standard Autosol Metal Polish. But after you have shined something up, rub it with a paper towel and some meths. A black polish residue will come off the metal.
an old method for brass and copper is to cut a lemon in half then dip the cut face in salt then rub the metal with that,works a treat on my big jam pan! oh and the victorians also used red brick dust and water as a polish to clean metal.
Have just cleaned the really grotty looking pre heater in chip shop vinegar and it has come up a treat. Spoilt my chips though so throw it away after. Clive.
Having worked on mainly Tilley lamps, this is my second Vapalux which is almost finished so i was wondering how it will compare to the Tilley from a operating standpoint, ie which is the better lamp . Does the larger diameter vaporiser have any advantages over the Tilley and is it ok to use a Tilley mantle or do i need a Vapalux mantle to get the best out of this lamp. Clive
I find Vapalux better in terms of construction and just prefer them to Tilleys - however, I love the Tilleys too!
Hi Clive! New here myself and couldn't say much about the vapouriser, but there is plenty (understatement! )to look at if you do a search on here regarding 'Mantles'?...All aimed at getting the most out of your lamp! Regards, T..
The Vapalux feels a more robust lamp than the 246 , as I have a stock of Tilley mantles I will try one but the burner looks to be a slightly different diameter. Dont want to ruin a good mantle just to check the sizes though.Any tie on mantle should fit I suppose. Clive.
A Tilley tie-on may fit but you won't be able to use a standard push on tilley mantle. I'd just pop on to e-bay and buy yourself 4 or 5 bialaddin/vapalux mantles - you're going to end up using them anyway!
I use a standard, pre-tied, Tilley mantle on my Vapalux as I too have a stock of them. It'll go over the upper mount (on the burner) easily enough but getting it onto the smaller, lower one on the spigot tube is usually a struggle. However, if you remove the spigot tube, then fit the mantle to the burner, and then screw the tube back into the burner head, it is easier to pull the bottom of the mantle down into the grooves. I find the Tilley mantles work fine - but as I've only ever had one V/lux one (as supplied with the lamp) it's difficult to make an objective comparison. I don't recall being concerned about output when I first had to replace the original one with one of my stock of Tilley ones.
Tilley vapouriser O/D = 3/8"... Vapalux vapouriser O/D = 7/16"... (this is the only bit of tech i have learnt so far so i'm shouting out... )
Seal kit just arrived from fettlebox so will soon find out what works, thanks for input all. Have sprayed tank Nato Green with a clear Acrillic coat so will finish assembly when all is dry.Wondering about spraying frame with clear also.Not sure about heat affecting it though. Clive.
Hi Mike, did as you advised and worked a dream, no fiddling about. Used a Xmantle which seems to give a warm light rather than a white light, Was wondering if old stock mantles gave a different light due to chemical ageing as some mantles are really white when lit while some are orange. Clive
Glad it worked for you. I'm afraid I can't comment about the differences you've noted. What I can say is that my supply of Tilley mantles were acquired from a Civil Defence store which was closing, and all the kit being disposed of. That was nearly 20 years ago! I was running a Scout Group at the time, and we got hold of a large box of mantles. Who knows how old they were when we got them! We also acquired several brand new, never fired, still boxed, Tilley lamps. All for free. Which was nice. No doubt others more expert than I will perhaps be able to comment on the performance issue.
Could also be the different chemical in the mantle (or an obstruction/partial blockage) in one of the air tubes
Not the air tubes as they have been removed for dismantling and cleaning of burner, will check the endcaps though as they have small holes which could become blocked. Thank,s for replies. All clear on those so will try changing to spare vaporiser. Clive.
Changed the vaporiser tube to a spare and the mantle is giving a white light now, Looks like the advice given regarding blocked vap has sorted problem. Thank,s to all. Clive.
Probably worth trying to remove any carbon from the vaporiser innards then, Is it a case of heat and quench or can you soak it out with caustic soda as we used to do with two stroke exhausts off the bike or any other chemicals. Clive.
Hi Clive, You can try to clean the vapourizer out but the bad burn is probably caused by an enlarged, worn-out jet leading to an over-rich mixture. James.
Thank's worn jet has crossed my mind so as the lamp works with the other vap i might just keep it as a spare for another lamp i have coming. At least i know it works to a degree. Clive.
