My beloved Tilley TL10 needs to be re-lacquered and I would like to paint the base plate for authenticity. From the control cock depth, it's a post 1940 lamp. I believe the base should be black, but can someone please confirm if this is correct? FYI, avoid using White Knight Clear Guard. After spending several evenings polishing this lamp to perfection, I applied this lacquer as per the manufacturer's directions. Despite this product being claimed as suitable for brass, a few years later the lamp has tarnished and the lacquer is peeling off. I intend re-lacquering it with Wattyl Clear Lacquer Finish (Wattyl Incralac). I used this recently, and adhesion and scratch resistance has been excellent. Time will tell if it tarnishes. I would love to know what Tilley used, as the durability of their lacquer is truly impressive.
Hi Mathew, great lamp the TL10. Always wondered if the extra height helps keep sediment away from the vapouriser because they always run so well. When you say the base should be black, what part are you calling the base ? Looking in my Tilley book, TL10's were either lacquered polished brass, sprayed gold paint or chromium plate. All mine are black under the fount. Welcome to the forum too.
Hi Anthony, Yes I mean the under the font. Thanks for confirming they were painted black. I would have to agree the TL10 is a great lamp. This particular lamp is the one that started my collection. It is regularly used, and has always run well. Cheers,
I have used Incralac on brass fonts but found methylated spirits dissolves even hardened lacquer. Also after a period of about a year the oxide spotting appeared under the lacquer. I have used clear automotive lacquer (used on alloy wheels)which is impervious to alcohol but the same spots appeared. Living a few hundred metres from the ocean probably exacerbates the problem though. I now use Auto Glym resin polish to finish after polishing with Autosol metal polish. Using the resin polish removes traces of the metal polish. The brass will dull over time but it does it evenly with no deep spotting and repolishing is easier. I use Auto Glym paint renovator for subsequent repolishing it is much less aggressive than the Autosol but not good at removing heavy tarnish. Autosol is German and Auto Glym is from the UK. I have also tried pure carnauba wax which is good but does not give the same results as the resin polish. Hope this helps
Thanks for the advice. I tested a spot on the lamp I just restored, and sure enough methylated spirits dissolves Incralac. It seams creating a lacquer that will adhere to brass and be impervious to both polar and non-polar solvents is a big ask. But surely there is a product out there, as Tilley managed to do it 80 years ago. Here are a few others to avoid that I have tried: - Automotive clear coat: fails to adhere but has good solvent resistance - Clear enamel: fails to adhere and is easily dissolved by kerosene
There is a website called www.horology.com/htr-laqu.html that has a good article on restoring old clocks and instruments using new and old methods. Well worth a read, and is quite informative.
Adding to my previous post. You may try the Radio Controlled modelling sites and look for Fuel proofer. There are several types. If you have found a Varnish/Shellac that sticks well but is damaged by Methanol,Alcohol etc. This may be you answer. There are many types, for different uses. Or go with Shallac. You could get a good women for the job,while she is doing her nails.
Clear VHT paint? I've been using this recently with success but I don't know whether it'll tarnish under it.
It seems that any lacquer that is going to hold up will need to use a chemical (epoxy) or thermal cure. Experience would suggest that if it's solvent based, either kerosene or methylated spirits will dissolve it depending on the polarity of the base, e.g. Incralac is impervious to kerosene but not methylated spirits. expat, is the clear VHT paint you are referring to, the engine enamel that is cured by baking at 93 deg C? If so, what's the adhesion to brass like as I believe there paints are made for steel?
Mr Tilley For VHT-brand clear coat over brass, see here: http://0flo.com/index.php?threads/4899 I've just checked the lantern and its fine. Cheers Tony Tony
The VHT is the autotek one, cure slowly up to max temp and hold for 1 hour - good to 450 deg C. I degrease well with system 20 fast degreaser and then spray & cure with a heat gun (but I don't bother holding it at temp for an hour!)
