Have just received a Tilley wall lamp and a 300x to refurbish and have noticed that the cleaning wire spindle will rotate either way without hitting a stop on the 300x. Is this normal for this lamp as it is the first one i have dismantled or is it faulty. Regards Clive.
Hello Clive, This knob rotates continuously either way, like a crankshaft. It is not a valve that closes shut like with a petrol (Coleman) lamp. This alone makes it imperative to use paraffin, not petrol. You should feel some resistance when the V on the knob points upward, caused by an internal pricker spring shown in this link: http://www.base-camp.co.uk/320.htm Regards, Mike
Thank's Mike for reply, Have refurbished about 45 Tilley lamps of various designs plus two Vapalux which i understand this lamp has close relation in manufacture and origins, however im sure that the Tilley and Vap 320 did not have the full rotation of the valve which allowed a positive shut off of fuel to the burner when closed hence my queery regarding the closed position of said valve. Regards Clive.
This comes down to a court action between Tilley and Willis & Bates in the 1940s, I think it was. Tilley invented the pricker which sealed the end of the vapouriser and patented it. W&B copied this and Tilley threatened W&B; legal action ensued. The outcome was that W&B won. There's rather more to it than this and the full story is on pages 10 and 11 of Ian's book. What seems to have happened in reality was that W&B did not change their design which continued to seal the end of the vapouriser. However, they hadn't claimed it as a feature of their lamps and lanterns. Thus, Tilleys have what's called a 'control cock' whereas Bialaddin/Vapalux refer to exactly the same thing as a 'jet cleaner'. You can get both methods of working on Bialaddin and Vapalux - some of their jet-cleaner knobs rotate throughout 360 degrees whereas others just operate in an arc of about 120 degrees. In either, the jet-cleaning action is when the point of the 'V' is at the top...
Thank's for that info David, interesting. I wonder how many other manufacturers use the same idea as my experience is as i said mainly Tilleys. It makes me wonder how the manufacturing was set up as the control knob is a screw thread fitting which must be difficult to gauge how long the thread is on each lamp where as on the Tilley and Vapalux they are located on a flat and can only fit one way, bearing in mind neither needs to fit in a specific position. Seems odd . Clive.
Just fired up this 300x and the light output is one of the best i have fettled, considering i used the vaporiser i removed from my Vapalux which gave a orange light. Either its a better lamp or the burner is not up to scratch on the Vapalux. Clive.
Did you clean the burner out on your other one? We get gallon containers of vinegar for preserve making so I soak my burners in (neat) distilled vinegar for 20 - 30 minutes depending on condition and then rinse well in hot water. I'll also heat & quench them if they're badly carbon-ed up. Makes a huge difference! Also make sure that all the bits that are threaded are tight afterwards...
To get the pieces snug and sealing well without damage or seizing, it helps to put a dab of copaslip copper grease on mating surfaces and screw threads when reassembling.
Thank's for return ideas. Usually clean parts in vinegar or lemon juice diluted."warm". I am going to replace alloy control cock with a brass one so I hope brass to brass will not corrode or oxidise and I use silicone grease on the joints. Should be ok for another fifty years. Clive.
Umm, Vapalux/Bialaddin should be all brass control cocks as far as I know and no need to grease the threads as they have rubber/viton seals.
expat, I was referring to the burner parts you mentioned in your post immediately above mine. Although the control cock shaft does turn much easier if there is a bit of lubrication on its seal.
They certainly have seals made with some sort of man-made rubber but it'll be Viton only if a previous owner has replaced them with that material...
Phaedrus, I completely agree with you (although my own experience is to use it so very sparingly!). My post was in reference to the one by esoxesox as I dont recall any vapalux/bialaddin lamps being made with alloy control cocks. David, I take your point!
Sorry for confusion but somehow topic has changed to my problem with Tilley Wall lamp and re tapped swan neck with broken alloy tap. My fault. Working on both lamps together.300x finished and working.Wall lamp waiting for seal kit and brass valve. Clive.
Wall lamp sorted, as explained on wrong thread"300x", Got a tap to clear the threads and waiting for rubber parts to finish lamp. Clive.
