Hi Guys, Update on Dads lamp, Finally managed to meet up with Bro for the soldering work. He gets his kit ready and I ask "Did you manage to get the right solder?" " Iv'e done better than that!" he replies. " I've got Dads old tool box under the stairs and had a rummage through it, I've found this!!" He holds up a coil of about 8 inches of grubby, dull, lifeless solder " This is the stuff he claims, "It's Dads, It's what he would of used to fix it" "Has it got lead in it?" I ask. "lead!, LEAD! This stuff is from the 50's....it's probably radioactive, it'll work just fine" Now the overhaul begins. Oly
Me Again. asking all the experts for advise please. I have started the refurbishment and struggling with a few points. They say a picture speaks a thousand words so here goes! Thanks Oly
Hi Oly 1). The filter gauze on the base of the control cock will unscrew where you will be able to blow through or brush with an old toothbrush. You will also find a spring, abrass cup and a circular black washer. You will be able to use a spring and one of your remaining black nippled washers until you manage to purchase a washer kit for the old style Tilleys (see The Fettle Box), but do not loose the brass cup! 2). Nothing needs to be done with the other side of the control cock. 3). The control cock knob will unscrew anti clockwise, although it may be a bit stiff. You should be able to unscrew this giving it a bit of welly with finger and thumb. Once unscrewed the gland packing nut can be removed and the small gland packing washer can be fitted over the control cock shaft. You may have to remove the old washer(s) from inside the gland packing nut. These are usually rock hard and require a bit of digging out. 4). The end of the pump should unscrew in an anti clockwise direction. Again this may have seized up and require a bit of ooomph. If you need to hold the pump in the vice protect it with a piece of leather. Inside you should find the same bits as in the control cock and replacement of the same in the same way. 5). You should be able to blow air through the vaporiser, however it has a very small hole and this may not be obvious. Fit the vaporiser and gently work the control cock knob, this may just clear the blockage. If not try heating and quenching or a new vaporiser. 6). You should now only have the control cock knob left which will only fit the newer style units. Just pop it in your spares box for when you get some more lanterns. Seized items can be soaked in releasing oil or a 50/50 mixture of acitone and automatic gearbox oil (recommend by Mackburner) which works much better. Hope this helps. Keep us informed and happy lamping. Regards, Jeremy
update. I have managed to remove the tight nut at the end of the pressure tube and fitted a square ended rubber stopper that is held in place by one of the new springs! The tap assembly I am stuck with Oly Ps if this is not making sense to anybody please see my original posts from a few months ago, Dads Lamp, and Dads lamp 2. I believe they were in the discussion forum. PPS Thanks Admin for moving my posts to where they need to be. Oly
To answe your questions: 1. Clean the gauze with carburettor cleaner. 2. The black turning knob unscrews from the shaft in the normal manner (anticlockwise). Use a bit of penetrating oil. The shaft does not come out of the control cock. The modern replacement does not fit. Then take off the packing box (the bit behind the black knob) burn out the old washers and replace. Hand tighten - don't force. 4. Use penetrating oil on the nut at the bottom of the pump. It needs to come off so that you can replace the non-return valve pip. 5. The pricker needle tip will clear the jet. You can test by putting the needle in and gently pressing the vapouriser down on the bench to see the needle tip emerge. 6. The springs are for the two valves - one in the bottom of the pump; one in the control cock. The two formed pips sit in the spring to make the seal; but they are from the X246B - you should have brass pip holders that take a viton disk (available from The Fettle Box. The knob is not useful for this model and the other washer looks like it fits the bottom of the vapouriser. Cheers Tony Edit: cross posted with X246A
Thanks guys, some very useful advice!! But I cant seem to pressuriser her? I have other tilleys and the pump gets harder to pump after a few pumps, not this one? what does this thingy do? could the soldering have damaged a seal? the tap and vaporiser where removed before soldering. I have swapped for a pump I know works in another lamp but can not get pressure in this one?
Check that the pump is working properly by pumping it outside the tank. It will fart when it's working correctly. Now check that the seal under the wide knurled nut on the pump is seated proery and seals at the pump housing on the tank. Check that the control cock seal is sitting correctly under the control cock; ditto the vapouriser seal. The little thingo you've photographed I'd the pressure indicator. When it is flush with the top of the housing, stop pumping (unless, I'd curse it doesn't work. Put a few drops of penetrating oil down it). When you get some pressure in the tank, put the tank in a bucket of clean water to check for leaks. Tony
The pressure indicator may be seized, but they often loosen when the lantern is in use, sometimes they leak and the only cure for that is to solder them up.
Looking at the last picture, Is your control cock seated properly? You can use the bush that the control cock screws into to position the control cock. See here: http://0flo.com/index.php?threads/8069 Tony
Those pump washers are terrible - save yourself some cursing and get one from the fettlebox (you'll see the difference when you do!). Also make sure that the non return valve in the pump is seating properly.
