Newark seems to have re-invigorated my interest in fettling lamps and I've just begun a couple of refurbishment projects. Given that the full-fat, industrial strength paint-strippers containing methylene chloride are seemingly a thing of the past, having been replaced by the environmentally-friendly but effete and ultimately useless water-based variety, I'm wondering which methods folk now use to remove old paint from tanks. I'm not keen on abrasives because they also remove some metal. Blasting with even the gentlest of media seems like using a sledgehammer to crack a walnut. Chemicals such as acetone would do it but that's not good for one's health. So what's your preferred method? Currently, for light surface rust, I'm considering using one of those green nylon pan scourer-type thingies but whether that would be sufficient for removing paint, I don't know...
....Wickes bargain basement paint stripper...... ...First coat nothing seems to happen?..... but after 15 mins slap another layer on and things start to roll!... ...And good if you're fettling as you can leave it to simmer and keep putting more on from time to time pb
Thanks PB. I think it's actually the Wickes stuff I've got and tried ages ago. Perhaps I needed to add that second coat. I'll give it a go tomorrow...
.....Same goes for the old paints...White Lead/Red Lead...... ...Sometimes it's for the best? ...Alternatively you can buy 5 litres of Xylene thinners and put what you want to strip in with it in a sealed container....( Please don't try this at home kids) pb
Cillet Bang the one with limescale removal . Only buy when on offer !! ( do not use on chrome unless removing / stripping ) Use a container that is same size as the object you are cleaning . It seems to work when you use a paint brush and or a soft sponge and agitate to a froth a few times until the Cillit Bang goes flat. Rinse with soapy water and dry. I don't use green scourers leaves much scratches . I use wet and dry sponge blocks buy pack of three at market, especially on brass ,much finer scratches that can be polished out with autosol . Read manufacturers instructions . safety precautions. Rubber gloves and safety glasses. ventilated area . be safe out there ! On really bad patches fine emery cloth , then sponge block to work out scratches then polish out.. That's my take on it but do please protect your hands and eyes .
Hi David. I used to use Wickes paint stripper. Worked OK but slow and messy. I now use a scotchbrite wheel on a bench grinder. They come is various grades and don't seem to remove any metal (maybe the harshest grade will). Basically, a pan scourer on a wheel. Takes the paint off a tank in minutes. Then paint stripper for the odd awkward corner: Usual H&S rules apply. BTW, as a spectacle wearer I have struggled over the years to find a pair of safety goggles that work for me. Bought these 'Bolle Atom Safety Goggles' from Screwfix the other week - brilliant. Optical lenses and specifically designed for spectacle wearers. Very comfortable and clear - you forget you are wearing them: Screwfix link - Link Terry
.....Good advice!....Yes, messy old stuff the Wickes .... Lots of newspaper needed! ....Also when using any type of wheel to remove paint or rust it is ESSENTIAL that you wear a mask that is suitable as older paint WILL contain Lead !! ...This goes for a wire wheel as well pb
For any ferrous metal I'm a big fan of electrolysis. Serves the double purpose of eliminating rust and removing paint. Paint will come off in sheets. You can start the process and go off and do other stuff for hours or days without worrying. Can be used to derust both inside and outside of lantern or stove founts. No toxic chemicals or fumes, no bothersome smells to upset the missus. Cheap and easy.
David, as I am informed, methylene chloride was banned for private use but professional and industrial use is still possible. But I am not up to date on that issue. I will contact the company I bought the 5 kg containers a few years ago. If the metal under the paint will resist to acids or bases (aluminium will just dissolve) I use a hot solution of caustic soda which is a really nasty stuff but it does well on all kinds of old paint. It even removed the Swiss military paint from my carbide lamps and from these nice wooden lantern boxes the Swiss army stored away by hundreds. It will burn oak wood but does not affect soft wood. I had one of these large Tilley FL-6 wooden boxes with four handles to carry. I removed the paint, polished it up and used it as a table in the living room. Erik
David I use a proprietary biodegradable gel that has citric acid as its active ingredient. It's not as spectacular as some of the old (carcinogenic) paint strippers, but it works well if used properly. I used it on the X246 in my recent post "Weekend Project". I'll post a pic of the jar tonight. Cheers Tony
