With a bit of luck they also got the shade for it. As all lamps meant to use a large shade (parchment, cloth or other), it's really ugly without it. And not very useable indoors as it was meant. But with the shade, it's a real lamp. I doubt it got one, though. Luckily it's not hard to make an acceptable one from scratch, or even get a decent one from another lamp.
It seems in good condition. The T10's upper hoods enamel is often cracked, probably because they used a wrong kind of iron for enamelling, but this looks very nice Claus C
Question regarding this kind of lamp: What keeps the glass in place? Are there springs in the burner gallery or something. Im restoring one from pieces at the moment but I dont fully understand how it goes together. Nice unit there!
Hi there, It's possible to see in the photo that the glass sits in the chrome spirit cup, the burner and housing should then drop down onto the vapouriser and hold it in place? Hope this helps, regards, pb
Had a look and they don't appear to have the shade. Not sure whether to bid on it or not to be honest.
This link shows the paperwork for the Bialaddin T-10 & T-20 table lamps, but it's only open to subscribers. http://0flo.com/index.php?threads/1449
I was thinking just that same thing ! Repro ones are available as are the spirit cup, but those two items alone come to quite a few bob pb
Yes I would agree, nice condition. My experience would suggest that the galleries with slotted perforations are likely to suffer more damage than those with round perforations. Does anyone know if the two variants were produced in roughly the same quantities, I seem to find slotted hoods to be more common?
These are good working lamps and very solid as you might expect from Bialaddin. They were never all that popular though, possibly because folk see them as ugly. On the Bay they have always been cheaper than the Tilley. That is an exceptionaly good gallery which indicates the lamp has had little use so it has to be worth capturing. ::Neil::
I think that's probably correct, Neil, and the fact that its successor, the T20, had a more conventional Tilley-style tank might suggest W&B/Aladdin UK had exactly the same thoughts. Probably its 'space-age' looks were simply a few years ahead of their time - NASA had no hesitation in copying it for their Gemini capsule! - and many '60s styling trends derived from the race into space e.g. the Tilley HRH1 radiant heater, those globular chairs and spherical TVs you see from time-to-time on the Antiques Roadshow. I'd have it away if the price was right (and I didn't already have half a dozen of them - d'oh!)
Being as I am a cynical old git I suspect the T20 tank cost about half the price of a T10 and the change was economic rather than an attempt to boost sales. If it was then it failed because they dropped the lamp after less than two years as far as I can see. ::Neil::
This lamp really looks much better with a shade. I didn't realize it existed until now when I followed the link to the instruction sheet. By the way, does anyone happen to have an original shade? In such case I am very interested in getting the measures so I might be able to make a replication. Just drop me a PT. Bo
True enough but by then, the pressure lamp had had it's day in all but the remotest parts of the UK... I think someone here found one of the original shades and posted a pic. It would be good to be able to get reproductions...
I was just looking on a website that specialized in lamp shades and they mentioned that their shades have a PVC flame retardant backing, and will pass the glow wire test carried out by the Lighting Association? Would this be sufficient for the type of shade needed here? If not then what would be? pb
These are the same size and shape shades as Tilley types from the 1950s. I am sure there are posts in here with details of those. ::Neil::
ive got one of these,nice lamp,as stated not pretty as a tl ,a frosted glass makes it much nicer to use,to frost the glass google glass frosting/etching paste,easy to do and cheap.
I would recommend not frosting the whole globe but masking the glass into frosted and clear stripes or patterns. You still need to be able to inspect the mantle for holes while the lamp is burning. Not spotting a hole in the mantle in good time can cause the glass globe to develop a white burn mark and to crack.
