OK, guys, I feel really stupid asking this, seemingly, simple question: Which way up should the inner tube be in the burner assy? Due to circumstances, it's been about 2 years since I dissassenbled mine and now I have a problem. One way up and I can't the darn thing to burn, the other way up, I can (eventually) get it to light, after a lot of leaking fuel and lots of flame but, then, after burning nicely for about 5 mins., the assy falls apart! All suggestions gratefully welcomed.
Hi Tony, thanks for this. I had seen your early R1 results some time ago and a brilliant job you've made of it. Unfortunately, mine is a later version, similar to the R55? shown later in the post, i.e.: a flat top "can" if you like! The top unscrews, as does the bottom and their is a separate inner aasembly, consisting of two concentric tubes. One end has a ring of holes, which emerge between the two tubes and also, two lateral holes in the side walls. The other, just has the two concentric tubes.
Sanctuary Man I photographed the burner, but that coincided with my iMac having a complete breakdown (I now need to rebuild the operating system). I'll post the photos from another device in 12 hours time. But if you are wondering where the two holes in the side of the heavy brass inner tube are situated - it's at the bottom of the burner. Best regards Tony
Hi Tony, Thanks for your continued input and comments. As I posted in my original question, one way up, it works but falls apart after about 5mins (I paraphrase). The problem seems to be, that, due the the restricted inner bore at this end, the burner only just sits on top of the vapourising tube and the thread does not go deep enough into the bottom outlet cover to secure it well. Hence, it seems that the heat expands the metal, so that the bottom plate, compete with cage, etc., fall down the tube!
Ok. I now won't be able to post the pics until tonight my time. Can you photograph all your bits and pieces apart, but lined up as they would be if assembled? Cheers Tony
The threads on these and on lamps oxidize and erode from the heat they are subjected to over time, a good s/h replacement may be your only option. I am sure some new parts have been available from sellers on e/bay at times. A possible temporary fix you could try some brass shim between the thread in burner head and the mantle tube.
Sanctuary Man I have the photo, but can't upload it to CPL from my iPhone because of a glitch in the system somewhere; and my computer is being resuscitated by the Apple technicians. If you PM me your email, I'll send you the photo if it will help. Cheers Tony
Hi Graham and, Tony. "Falling apart" problem appears to have been resolved! I found that, when re-assembling the inner tube (inside the ceramic tube), I'd screwed it too far into the base plate of the burner assy. I still have a problem with getting the thing burning though. Problem seems to be that I can't get the fuel to vapourise and don't get the "pop", as suggested by Tilley in their lighting instructions. Lots of liquid fuel running down the vapouriser tube and, lots of flame. How essential is the draught shield, in concentrating the heat around the assy?
These burners are always difficult to fire up. With the shield you can just about get the vaporiser hot enough but without one it will probably require two goes with the torch to get a clean burn without yellow flames. Yellow flames and flowing fuel is always lack of heat. Just shut off and apply the torch again. ::Neil::
Thanks Neil, thought that may be the answer, although I don't remember my Grandfather, back in the '50's having a problem. But, then, he'd probably been using his for years before! And, of course, with the old asbestos mantle! I can still recall the fascination now, the smell of the meths and the "pop" and heat. Great times!
Without the shield and in still air you might just do it with one torch but it is a fine art to get it just right before the torch dies and the vaporiser begins to cool again. With lots of practice it will work but better to just accept and give it two shots. ::Neil::
Thsnks, Neil. I'm going to make up a temporary draught shield from a 500ml drinks can, which, appears to be a good approximation to the original. Of course, ali won't hold the heat like steel will but, I'll post to let you know how I get on!
Thank you, David but, although I certainly agree it's a "draught" shield, it also confines the heat to around the burner assy., etc., as well, which, I think has been one of my problems in getting the fuel to vapourise. Anyway problems finally solved this evening, as I shall elucidate in a separate post!
Yes, as well as minimising the cooling effect of draughts which also blow the flame away from parts being primed, the draught shield also confines the preheating flame around the vapouriser and channels it up towards the burner. However I'd have thought the thermal capacity of whatever material the original and ersatz draught shields were made from (i.e. steel versus aluminium) would have a minimal effect and not be worth considering. Practical experience on cold and windy campsites over a number of occasions bears this out. I thought that the point you were making concerned thermal capacity. Perhaps I misunderstood...
